The accepted current horticultural convention is NOT to amend individual planting holes. The reasons are varied but boil down to providing a uniform soil structure throughout the potential root zone and not impeding water percolation and drainage (soil interface issues). Plants - trees and shrubs - establish faster and develop better root systems if planted directly into the indigenous soil. If your soil is such that you feel you must amend, do so over the largest possible area.......ideally the entire future root zone or an entire planting area. Just not individual holes.

Also any planting holes should be quite wide - 2-3 times the diameter of the rootball - but no deeper than what the rootball is currently. Any proposed amendments can be used as a topdressing or mulch rather than incorporated into the backfill.

Myth of Amending Planting Holes

How to Plant Trees and Shrubs - pay close attention to item #7

We have no idea whether you are planting tomatoes or Giant Sequoias. But gardengal is right about amending deep holes when planting trees and shrubs.

Aside from what you are planting, how is your soil now? Sand, silt or clay? Rich or low in organic matter?

Ok Thank you, I am planning to plant tomato's peppers onion, maybe some beans, strictly veggies maybe some perennials around the fence. I was planning a big garden initially but I think I need to start small to get the hang of this. I am new to gardening and not sure on checking my soil. I just bought this home in January so everything is new to me. Any tips on determining the type of soil I have.

Can we assume you're in Ohio? If so, your fabulous land-grant university has an Ag Extension service. Here's how to find an office near you:

http://extension.osu.edu/lao

If you're NOT in OH, many states have similar, Google "[name of state] Agricultural Extension". They can tell you a lot about soils in your area. Also, they often provide soil testing at low rates. They can tell you how to collect a sample for that. It's probably not critical right now but if you plan a big garden, at some point you are going to want to know.

Also, if you're in an urban area look up Master Gardeners and see if there is an organization. They may be very helpful. Local nurseries can answer a few questions too. And neighbors who garden.

To get started, I would till in some compost (as much as you can get) more shallowly over a small area and plant in that. Rather than digging deep holes. Vegetable roots are generally less than a foot deep (not strictly but most of the action is shallow). My first garden was a few bags of store bought compost tilled into a piece of suburban lawn. 25 years later I have great soil with beds raised naturally (due to fluffing when compost was added to the clay over and over). You can't go wrong with compost and you almost can't put down too much. An inch or two would be great if you can.

Plant, and mulch around your plants with grass clippings (no week killers though!), fall leaves (you probably didn't save them though), straw, or shredded yard waste mulch if your city has a free mulch site.

Thank you! I actually called a local tree service to see if I can get some free wood chips as a ground cover. I appreciate the advice. I am looking at the OSU extension site now. Thanks again.

Ohio State University no longer does soil testing but they do have this article to help
Ohioans that do want the soil they have tested.

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/floriculture/images/CULT-Soil_Testing_for_Garden_Plants.pdf

These simple soil tests may be of some help as well.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

With the exception of an area around Lake Erie the soils I have seen in Ohio are clay and amending a hole to plant something in is not something to do9 since that will simply create more problems than it would solve. You may want to consider putting in raised beds rather than spending the time and energy amending the existing soil.

kimmq is kimmsr.