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cg14

Help me Interpret my Logan Labs Soil Sample Please

10 years ago

I have 3 raised beds and have never gotten a soil test. I'll give a breakdown of them and then hopefully you guys can tell me what to do.

Two of the beds are about 5 years old and were built with Mel's mix and have
been amended with compost every year. These are wooden 4x4 beds that are
2 2x6's tall. These are the "Raised Bed N" and "Raised Bed
S" on the soil sample. "Raised Bed S" has almost the same
results as "U Bed" because I topped it off earlier this year from
"U Bed" because I was planting it then.

The other bed is made from steel and is 2' tall. I filled the bottom half with a garden soil mix
from a local landscape supplier. It is a mix of sand, soil, and
compost. On top of that I mixed in compost from a few sources, rice
hulls, and peat moss. This is "U Bed" on the soil sample. A friend helped me
build it a few years ago (more on that later).

I have added compost that I make 3 times because the steel bed seems to drop
about 4"-6" each year. My compost includes chicken litter, cattle manure, horse barn clean outs and wood mulch. It is 2 years old and
screened before applying so there aren't any large wood chips left.

I have used Neptune's Harvest and Tomato Tone as fertilizer and mulched with
straw last year.

The beds did really well the first year but weren't as great last year so I
decided to do a soil test before I did any amending. Last year
was a bad year for everyone in my area so it could be weather to blame not my
soil. Regardless I'm sure it can be better so Please Advise!

The 4th sample (David's) is my friend that is a metal fabricator and built
the steel bed for me. He was impressed with my beds after year 1 and
built some for himself. His initial results were poor but things got
better as the season progressed. [Post from last year about the
problem.[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/new-raised-beds-vegetable-plants-are-dying-and-or-yellow-please-help-dsvw-vd~3117323) Please advise on his as well and maybe he will build you a steel
bed (probably only if you pay).

The obvious thing to me is that I need to raise the calcium. Someone
suggested lime for this but I was afraid it would increase the PH too
much. Any option to increase calcium would be great. I'm assuming if I do use lime that it should be calcitic since my magnesium is high. Would Gypsum be a better idea?

The organic matter seems high. Should I back off on the compost when the soil drops this year? Is it possible I need more nitrogen?

Thanks!




Comments (16)

  • 10 years ago

    Soil pH is good. For most plants the range should be in the 6.0 to 7.0 range.

    Amount of organic matter is too high, Optimal is in the 6 to 8 percent range. If that landscape suppler indicated in any way that the "garden soil" they sold you contained "sand, soil, and compost" I would not patronize them again since sand is part of the soil equation. The mineral part of soil, which you planting beds lack is composed of sand, silt, and clay in various amounts depending on where in the world you are and what rocks were, and are, available.

    Optimal amounts of Phosphorus ranges from 50 to 170 pounds per acre.

    Optimal amounts of Potash ranges from 400 to 800 pounds per acre.

    Optimal amounts of Calcium range from 3,000 to 8,000 pounds per acre.

    Optimal amounts of Magnesium range from 600 to 1600 pounds per acre.

    However, if the ratios of each are in approximate range (P about 5 to 40) plants should grow fairly well. Nutrients need to be in balance, plants need Magnesium to be able to utilize Calcium.

    Your raised beds need more soil and less organic matter.

    kimmq is kimmsr

  • 10 years ago

    I watched them mix the "garden mix". It was a large skid loader scoop of the topsoil they sell mixed with another large scoop of compost and a small one of sand. It's mostly on the bottom half of my bigger bed. The soil sample probably doesn't reflect any of this mix. Should I dig the bed to mix the top and bottom. Bring some of that soil to the top and distribute some of the OM to the bottom?

    Thanks for posting the ranges. Should I worry about lowering the phosphorus? Is there even a way to do so? Obviously I won't fertilize with anything that has a lot of P. Do I even need to fertilize this year? Could I be N deficient due to all the OM?

    With a calcium range of 3k-8k I would assume mine is ok even though the report shows I need more on 2 beds.

    It sounds like this fall I should add some soil when they drop instead of more compost.

    Thanks

  • 10 years ago

    Check the back side of your soil report for recommendations and suggestions for understanding the report.

  • 10 years ago

    It was emailed to me with no recommendations.

  • 10 years ago

    Perhaps this article might help those that think there can not be too much organic matter in soils. Too much organic matter n soils is the same as too much fertilizer and contributes to pollution of our water just as excess fertilizer does.

    http://www.mofga.org/Publications/MaineOrganicFarmerGardener/Fall2009/OrganicMatter/tabid/1257/Default.aspx

    kimmq is kimmsr

  • 10 years ago

    There would be no problem with mixing the upper and lower layers to homogenize things.

    P does not leach away very fast so about the only thing you can do is not add it (and compost has plenty of it too, another reason to cut back on the compost).

    Nice green machine in the background there. :-D

    cg14 thanked toxcrusadr
  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    <It was emailed to me with no recommendations.>

    I don't think I would order from Logan Labs again in that case.

    Every soil report I received explained the results, what is normal, offered recommendations, and they were FREE. So if you paid anything I feel like you were ripped off.

  • 10 years ago

    They charge $30 for a detailed recommendation. Their website shows the acceptable ranges for each part of the test.

  • 10 years ago

    Hey just as long as you are happy with it. You won't find me using that service. I think I already explained why.

  • 10 years ago

    The University of Connecticut (UCONN) twice a year tests soil samples for pH free and does a nutrient analysis for $8.00 per sample according to the current price sheets. Several other state universities, through the Cooperative Extension Service, also tests soils at varying rates, with the added advantage of having access to someone that can help at the county CES office.

    kimmq is kimmsr

  • 10 years ago

    Ah yes a good choice and my alma mater but to show you how frugal I am.

    For residents The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station will do it for FREE.

    So if you live in CT contact either of them. The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station

    History of the Morgan Soil Test
    More
    than fifty years ago, M.F. Morgan of this Station added immeasurably to
    our knowledge of the relationships between plants and soils. He devised
    a soil test that could estimate deficiencies or excesses of plant
    nutrients. Called the "Morgan Soil Test," it became the world’s first
    widely accepted method for quickly estimating soil fertility.

    Today, soil testing extends our knowledge of Connecticut soils and
    helps farmers, gardeners, and homeowners learn how to improve soil
    fertility in an environmentally responsible manner.


  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    So the State of Connecticut duplicates what the University of Connecticut does? Is that not a waste of your tax dollars? Or does the people of Connecticut look at this as free enterprise at work, competition?

    kimmq is kimmsr

  • 10 years ago

    Who said the Ag Dept was run by the state? Is that how it is where you live?

  • 10 years ago

    The web site does, gumby.

    kimmq is kimmsr

  • 10 years ago

    Since you don't say where on what site you are seeing this and I do know you can provide a link when you want to - I am going to guess either you are on a different internet or you are trying to start trouble.

    Silly me, I thought that it was funded by USDA? And that we were using your tax money. But even if I am rwong I ask why would it matter to you?

    As long as you have been on this planet you have not seen duplication in govt anywhere? Are there only monopolies in MO? Is competition a bad thing?

    In any case, Do tell why does it matter?

    IF you are not trying to start trouble why bring it up at all?

    Repeating <Who said the Ag Dept was run by the state? Is that how it is where you live?>