It makes sense, the hot glass want's to expand, and the cool glass next to it does not. Metal will reflect a lot of the heat, but distract from the design...that looks really great by the way. Can the contractor help figure it out, "it's the nature of the beast" is not a solution. Who speced the glass? I don't see any cracks, are they small fissures, or big cracks across the whole back?

Derek Hurd

Gravitas, Inc.

112 E 33rd St.

Garden City, ID 83714

208.367.1184

Gravitas on Houzz.com

There is an issue with installing large format glass tile that might apply here. Installers are using a dab type method where they instead of set the entire tile in a combed thinnest they put large dabs on the back of the tile to level it off.

Problem is when those big dabs of thinnest dry they shrink blowing out the tiles. You might have an issue with how they are installing the glass vs the glass itself. Not sure glass expands and contracts enough where it would crack. In the above scenario it is the adhesive that is shrinking and cracking the glass.

Maybe you can get a small format tile in the same color or accent color. Nice kitchen!!

Consider replacing you lovely glass backsplash with glass tiles in the same color. Glass tiles won't crack from heat.

You can just replace the backsplash that's behind the stove top.

You needed 6" clearance to the rear if you wanted to use the glass. Which would necessitate pulling forward the hood with a stainless spacer, and a whole host of other domino issues.

This is what I'm talking about.

Encinitas Kitchen · More Info

There was a taller one but I needed the short one to fit under the window. My husband made me get it. It looked much better without.

Tempered glass is just about as likely to crack (or shatter) when one edge is heated way more than the others. The bigger problem is that the required clearance to the rear wall for that specific appliance is not followed.

http://www.dacor.com/getattachment/Products/Rangetop/Discovery-48-36-Gas-Rangetops/Planning-Guides-PDF.pdf.aspx

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If the clearances were followed, there would be a far less chance of the glass cracking. (Unless you still tried to shove a griddle all the way back to the wall with the burners up high)

Neither glass, tile, or drywall is an acceptable means to reduce the required clearance from the back of the cooktop to the rear wall.

IInternational Residential Code (Acceptable non-combustible materials and application)

"G2409.1 (308.1) Scope.

This section shall govern the reduction in required clearances to combustible materials, including gypsum board, and combustible assemblies..."

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"All clearances shall be measured from the outer surface of the combustible material to the nearest point on the surface of the appliance, disregarding any intervening protection applied to the combustible material."

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http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_24_sec007.htm

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The only other option is to use one of the approved (listed and labeled) backguards as mentioned in the first picture. The difference between a backguard and tile is that there is an air gap between the wall and the backguard, as the standards and codes stipulate as necessary.

Stainless steel glued directly to the glass or drywall is not acceptable by code either unless the back of the cooktop is at least 2.5" away from the wall for this specific appliance.