Thanks Harry ... I guess why I am confused by this is because rather than the plant stretching towards the light, it has flopped away from the light. But I don't know of any other reason it would do this.

I will trim off the long ends; thanks!

It has to look like this:

ps. this is an old one - I made a newer

Nice plant Harry!

adromischus need a hard life to look good. Not much water, no fertilizer and good light-although here in Nevada it flourishes with indirect light.

I agree with Harry -- it looks etiolated. I have two Key Lime Pie plants, but I am in SW Florida and they grow outside on my covered lanai, in as much sun as I can give them. In my experience, plants "flop" in whatever direction is convenient to bear the weight. They don't necessary flop toward the sun. I think the advice Harry gave you is good advice. When you acclimate your plant back into the sun, my suggestion is always to give it as much as you can. Mine don't like water much. I have them both in variations of gritty mix and small clay pots, and they get watered about every 6 days. Good luck making new plants from the leaves!

I'm also in SW FL and have mine on a partially covered lanai. What is weird to me is that the one I have in generic, peaty store-bought soil seems to be doing great and loving the high amounts of sun. However the one I have in a faster draining mix (nearly right next to the first) seems to be suffering from a bit of sunburn and dehydration, but I'm afraid to overwater it. So it stays on the same water schedule as the other plants of being watered once a week unless it's a dry summer then they get twice a week.

Thanks everyone. This is in a very bright and hot southern window ... and I can't keep it outside year round in my zone so I guess it's going to be less than happy for at least part of the year.

I'll trim it back and slowly introduce it to the outdoors for the summer, though I suspect it will be really unhappy to have to come back inside for the winter (I know how it feels!)

Having fun with Cristatus fun, hoping you have fun with your tops as well

Oooh, I like your container nomen!

So to propagate - is it like other succulents, do I just remove the leaves from the stems, let it dry a day or so and then stick it in the medium?

Yes to your manners in propagating it. I left some suggested cuts and other comments.

The yellow lines are single leaf possible to propagate candidates The red lines show ready to go but would suggest a little pampering even though they have aerial roots that are faster to root in a medium.

Mine in pic is a pure pumice mix and some granite small sized stones for top dressing. and also does well inside both under winter lighting and window sill locations

Just as advice if you choose the same type of soil no plant would grow if all one does is negligent it, certainly the same plant if neglected ( what ever neglect might mean to one person isn't what I do to mine). Any plant isn't going to thrive just because it's in a container.

Greenhearted, when my cacti/succs come in for the winter I drastically cut back on their watering. In Michigan, winter sun is weak and meager. Growing at that time of year will result in nothing but a etiolated plant. Cutting back severely on the water prevents them from growing. Once spring arrives and the sun gets stronger and temps warmer, then watering is increased.

Nicholas, why would you expect that the plant in a faster draining mix should be watered on the same schedule as the same type in a peaty mix? A faster draining mix drains and so does not hold as much water. If the one in a faster draining mix is showing signs of dehydration, then it is pretty obvious and not surprising that you will need to water it more often.

Nicholas ( the OP) hasn't told us what his medium is composed of but well said Paul. Also for the OP ( and others ) Size of pots: A smaller pot full of grits also holds less water ( volume) for a shorter time there are a few days in warmer days of Summer when the small pot (in the pic) could use watering more frequently. My general rule of thumb for any Adro is. ( I have several Adromischus in small sized pots) If I have to water a small pot twice in a week it will be moved to a less bright AM suntime cooler area or the late day PM sun. On avg the normal months I do move some of them in one direction or the other is Late June to mid July. An indication that most Adro's( although succulent) doesn't enjoy higher heat with max UV rays.

Wow, nomen_nudum, that was sure nice of you to give me a diagram! I will take your advice, thanks. So after removing the tips to propagate, do I cut the rest of the remaining stem back?

I've been using a bagged medium for cacti (I don't know what is in it offhand); I'll check and see what it is composed of. Maybe I need to plant it in something else.

Paul, thanks for weighing in. Could you give me an example of how infrequently you water in the winter? I tend to water my succulents once a week during the summer and water every other week in winter ... is that too much?

Black line with red & yellow lines near a top should be cut to also re-propagate Black line with pink arrow looks like it's okay to keep as the ' Mother plant'

Yellow curved lines you could attempt single leave propagation from each leaf My personal preference would lean toward trashing them only because they can root quickly but tend to grow rather slowly.

Watering in winter: ( no to dismiss any feed back from Paul ) In your mentioned every two weeks in a pot that size ( and un mentioned soil materiel) could be to often ( IMO). In my experience, I keep that small pot under lights in pure pumice and some granite rocks material ( in a nut shell) my watering would be less frequent in the midst of under lighting winter months in this adobe. I'm also pretty sure the amount of water I use is much less than what you would use in winter.

Summer watering can be (and usually is stated) very different from person to person ( As I tend to lean toward the side of very high doubts when some state they didn't water but actually did, but I think this only because if they didn't water as frequently as I do here in a good sharp draining gritty mix them wonderful jades they post and get raved about would simply be dried to death ) Watering seems to also differer from one Crassulacea to another Understanding that our summer season is equal to any Adromichus winter ( in SA) would also be needing in my zone a cooler still bright area where it's also on the dryer side. In a nut shelll ( to be clear) if your watering any Crassulacea more than twice a week at any volume of water and or any size or type of pot it's in the wrong warm sunny spot.

Your pot is much bigger than my 3/4ths inch deep X 1.5 X 1.00 inch I imagine if you felt the need to water it that frequently and still not have it stretch so badly would also depend on the watering volume for each watering and it's distance from the lighting ( or natural winter sun light).

That I can't tell you, GH. There are too many possible factors which could differ between you and I such as:

How does your mix compare to mine?

What is your RH vs mine?

How much winter sun do you get? (Michigan, I've been told, actually gets less winter sun due to heavily overcast days than most places in the country thanks to being surrounded by the Great Lakes.)

How warm is your place vs mine?

How about possible differences in air circulation?

For that matter, are we growing the same plants?

I need to mention, too, that not all my succs are kept drier in the winter. My Haworthia, for example, are not for they are typically fall through spring growers. The cacti I do have may not get watered for a month or more during the darkest winter months. If they show signs of dehydration, they might get a small sip ...or not. During the late longer days of early autumn and mid to late spring, they may go 2-3 weeks between getting a bit of water. My Crassula gets the same treatment as do my Echeveria. I do get some leaf drop or rosettes closing up but I'm okay with that. I'd rather have that than the plants becoming etiolated.

Wonderful; thanks nomen! It does sound as though I have been watering too frequently. I will try scaling it back this year, obviously paying attention to any signs that I am letting it go too long. In the picture you posted, it looks quite thirsty and I would have watered long ago, so that is a good indication to me that it can take quite a bit of drought and that I can/should let it go longer than I have been. Thank you!

Point taken, Paul. Experimenting is in order. Appreciate the info you have shared!

I looked last night and I am using Espoma cactus soil mix which contains peat humus, sphagnum peat moss, sand, perlite and earthworm castings. This sounds like completely the wrong stuff for Cristatus based on what I am reading here? I have both perlite and vermiculite that I could add to make it faster draining...

Skip the vermiculite. It'll disintegrate into a glittery mess.

Where and how should I cut this back?