IN My Opinion, Old Mid Range Gas Saws are better. I have late 70s - 80s Poulan S-25 that I have gotten 10 Solid years cutting 2-3 cords + a year on before any
issuers. I am not seeing that now. From using and repairing saws I have learned
that more service is a big key to lasting.

Recently Mid-Range 2-Cycles have not shown much
quality. If the present saw has low hours
I would suggest servicing it vs 1-3 years out of the next Mid Range. If you are not willing to service if the saw
is still solid, brings in the unreasonable cost of service. I find Mid Range Electric Chainsaws being
more economical and useful than Gas Saws (if they will serve your purpose).

I have gotten good service out of two electric saws (14” Mac
chain and 10” Remington Pole saw) with two 16”, 80s Poulans still running well when
needed. Being honest, I have not seen a
Good Mid Range gas Chainsaw since the 80s.

Does your present saw have known wear with a need of new
parts vs minor service. Minor service
something we can not avoid as often on a gas saw if it is used yearly.

What is your present saw doing and when did it run good
last. Did you service it regular?

Good Luck!

Thanks, my current saw will not turn over. Like it is not getting any fuel. I did let it sit for about 9 months without starting so I figured that was the issue. I replace the spark plug/filter and pulled the carb to do a complete cleaning and checked all the fuel lines. Still nothing. I had a friend who does alot of tree work and regular repairs his own saws and also couldnt get it running. I guess I could do a complete tear down but it also gets to a point of cost of my time too. Throw on top I know I need a new chain and it's a lower end saw too so I was thinking it wasnt worth the time.

Unless you are going out into the woods, or you have an acre or more, you may consider a good electric, rather that a gas chain saw. 14" electric chain saws are common. I believe you can even get a 16" electric.An electric can be in the shed for years, and when you plug it in it will work perfectly. There is no gas oil mixtures, or any problems starting an electric.

I bought 14" electric Poulan about 20 years ago. I bought it for the occasional tree limb that comes down and other periodic trimming jobs in the yard. However when Fran and several other hurricanes came through our yard I used it to cut up over 30 trees form 5 to 30 inches in diameter at the base.

The downside is the area you can reach is limited by about 200' of electrical cord. It gets in the way but can be managed. I found it takes less time to put the cord out and retrieve than it as it does to start gas without the magic words. In the 20 years years I have had mine, I have only nick the cord's cover about 4 times, never cut into the wires.

The above is minor compared to maintaining a gas engine. For a gas engine to perform well it needs to be used frequently to keep the engine oiled and any diaphragms moist. It is a pain to prepare and store the gas oil mixture, and then trying to get it started after sitting in the shed for six months, etc.

Did you or your friend check the basics? Fire, fuel and compression must be present
for the gas combustion engine to run.
What is the Model# and year?

Such as:

1. Pull the plug, ground it to metal on the engine in the start mode, you
should see a blue spark.

2. Fuel should be fresh unless treated with additives in ethanol fuel. Light prime cyl or plug.

3. You should get 100 psi at least of compression in the cyl. Or not be
able to hold it in cranking.

4. I’m surprised your experienced friend did not get the saw running or
see a problem in minutes.

Other Info:

1. How many years have you used the saw with any service between years,
with good service?

2. Pull muffler spark arrestor and ck for cln. Ck exhaust port for carbon,
ck cyl wall, rings damage.

3. Please share pics pf any questions.

You and Mr krnuttle have
good points:

1. Your time is important but I would hate to see you in a wasteful
cycle if minor maintenance can help.

2. If you are working away from home or at a long dist at
home, IMO you need a gas saw.

3. Electric saws have retired my gas saws due to bringing
pre-cut firewood home

4. I crank my gas saws yearly since they are good and
restore with fresh fuel or Bond-Dry of fuel.

2. The card is a big Hazard if you are moving about. My
work at home requires very little repositions.

Do you really get enough power from an electric? I don't mind the cord just really didn't think cutting a 18" tree (rare but I can run into that once every few years) could be handled by an electric. I'm not sure what my friend did. I did check for spark after replacing the plug and it was ok, then I pulled the carb and cleaned. That was all I did before I handed it over. Might give it one more go but if electric can have enough power I might look into.

I have promised to set my limit at 12 dia wood due to my age and
back issues. My 12” and16” Chainsaws have
impressed me (low to mid range quality).
This is after using gas saws only for firewood 1970s – 2010 approx. I never wound have considered using electric for
fire wood vs trimming until I repaired or sharpened a few. This Spoiled and Saved me due to my old saws
do not have primer bulbs.

I feel the condition of your chain and bar is a major factor in
pleasing service. After servicing, sharpening,
changing or dressing bars and correcting oiling matters on a number of electric
saws (which solved most problems. I did
not find power as a problem on the (low to mid range quality). My suggestions have been to monitor your
chips and bar oil (as good chips vs dust and signs of oil on the bar. Remember the productions of a new of a new
bar and chain

Plus, I was told or read there are some upper end electric saw
with much higher torque. I saw one at
the address below. I saw one on this
site that possibly had worm gears due to the motor running opposite of low end
electric saws. I’m fine with this quality
with less noise and no exhaust fumes/smoke.

Too tired to proof. LOL!

http://www.chainsawjournal.com/best-electric-chainsaw/

IMHO, using it one or two times a year is going to be a problem with a gas saw, even if you're way beyond anal about additives, running it dry, etc. Also, $200 doesn't really get you into a "good" saw. I'd go with electric if at all possible. What I do when I need power away from an outlet is load my genset into a "dumping" garden cart and haul it to where needed. Works really slick, use it for the saw and also for an electric weedeater for my beeyard. for some reason, the bees don't mind the mower going by, but they really hate the sound of a two cycle engine?

Good luck,

What size of generator do you use to run your chain saw and trimmer.

While I have never reached a situation where it was necessary, I have wonder if my 12v to 120 inverter could be used in an emergency.

I have a small 3750W Generac. "Simplistically" stated, Watts is Current times Voltage, so if your saw is 4 amps at 120Volts that's 480 Watts, so a 500W. should work. Put another way, Electrical things will have the wattage somewhere on them, so if your saw says 480 Watts, divide that by 120 Volts and the current is 4 Amps. Again, that's simplistically stated, but for this example will work.

To carry this a little further, If you're using 480Watts, that's coming out of a battery I'd guess, better have the engine running at high idle, because the inverter will be using 40 Amps, 480 Watts divided by 12 volts (battery) = 40 Amps.

Sorry to sound like a retired Engineer. :-)

Retired chemist and actually understand what you are saying.

My 14" Poulan chainsaw is 120 volts 12 amp 2.5 hp (per manual), So the generator would be definite possibility if large enough, but not an inverter,

Someone mention the power of a electric. I have taken down a Long leaf pine that was 30" at the base. and several sweet gums of about 14". I have also cut up some ash that was about 6" The electric chain saw was up to the job.

Too many forums, was talking to someone previously on another forum about a similar application for an electric weedeater which typically run4-6 amps. :-)

Electric is definitely the way to go if possible. Have a homelite Super XL with a 24" blade in the barn, hasn't been started in about five years. With the "mystery gas" we now have to buy it's hard enough with four cycle engines, the two cycles are almost impossible.

Is the Stihl
MS170 at 179.95 what many tree trimmers will sue as Limb Saws while in the
trees? A fellow cut this Ash (attached)
last summer but left the stump at least 3 ft high. I heard and saw him cutting the stump just
before dark yesterday. He was using a
Stihl 170 but I missed the letters before the 170.

The little Monster was Tuff but his Stihl chain was not
holding up. He had cut around the stump
but needed to cut vertically to quarter to load the blocks. Versus seeing him
give up at that point, I offered my saw, chains or sharpener.

My 16” bar or 16”
organ chains w/n fit his saw. My thick bar and sprockets not matching and left
the sharpening option (which d/n work initially). From a close look, he h/n sharpened the chain
good. The teeth were still beveled with
wear. I took a shot at sharpening his
saw. It was a “Thumbs Up” and chips flying.

With proper care and maintenance many small mid grade saws
can get large jobs done and last reasonably.
I was slow about asking for the blocks since they were so heavy. If they are still on his truck this evening
and not promised, I’ll let him drop them on my drive. That “Heart” makes some good burning blocks. My trend is to cut 6-8” sliced and split into
blocks vs more vertical cutting. The
logs cane from that “Dangerous” Ash tree or another Monster a street over. Plus a 16” Mid Grade Saw.

Last time I had tree trimmers out, they were using an MS192. That's a pro grade top handle saw.

Another strong vote for the Stihl MS170. I have one in my arsenal of three chainsaws. The other two are larger Husqvarnas. The MS170 is light, reliable and plenty powerful for bucking up firewood. I have had the saw for over 10 years with no problems.

I go for the MS170 all the time for most jobs around the house, and on our 12 acres up north. We heat entirely with firewood cut off our land up at our cabin, and for supplemental heating at home. We go through at least 2 full cord a year.

I run non-oxy premium gas with a bit of Seafoam in all my equipment. I never drain them or run them dry. My saws often sit for months at a time. My mowers and outboards sit all winter. My snowmobiles and ice augers sit all summer and fall. I no longer have any gas or starting issues with this approach (over the last 20 + years).

The approx of 30” X
300 + lb of stump is mine now. I went
back to my neighbor’s home (4 doors) and saw it still in his truck. He came out
and I asked, is it promised or will you dump it. He asked if I wanted it (the next morning) and
I said yes, dump it on the side drive. I
was glad to see it was in 6 sections vs 4 plus today I noticed a small amount of
soft wood in the Ash Stump. Not enough
to keep it from weighing 300 + lbs. The smallest section weighed 40 lbs the
next was 60 lbs and up. I stopped
weighing at 60 lbs. I hate to think what
the larger sections weighed until I split them.
I’ll split ea section next since the heat is in (1-3 sticks). Then cut those sections (probably once) by
the wheel barrel loads when I start burning them. The longer sections keep the stacking safer
and winter exercise vs in the heat now.
I am reaching my limits for the next two winters w/o the wood being too
seasoned

.

The Ash stump made 20 or 21 manageable sticks that will be
cut in half before burned. The “Kick”
was spotting old oil on the concrete coming from my oil filter’s plumbing “I Think
(like a vapor vs distinct leak. I kept the
splitter “Useable, Covered and Tucked Away” under a Carport (with one wheel off)
vs rolling it out for minor jobs.

That means putting the wheel on, cleaning and Soap Testing
Many joints (if a load w/n show the leak).
What is strange is all the joints and filter appeared to have oil vapor
on them in approx 5 years. At least a 12-18” Sq old oil stain on the concrete caught
my attention.

Could this be a condensation matter vs oil? The 5 gallon reservoir appears half full 2.5
gal. I added a new gallon to bring the 5
gal Res Tank above half after the 2nd rebuild. I feel the top Res hose should be my first
suspect “while applying a load of pressure (if this is an oil matter. All joints had pipe sealer which might point
to a bad hose...I can remember cars parked in this Southwest corner would sweet.

Please look at the vapor looking mess and give your
opinion as to what could have caused it.
I’ll understand if you suggest that I “Retire To 4-8 Inch Wood And My
Saw!

I tried to clean and evaluate
my log splitter’s “Leak Appearance” that I spotted “Surprisingly”. So far all appears OK and a mystery. I need to inspect “Yearly” (vs 5). I cleaned all joints, applied 2,000 - 2,500 lbs
for seconds and saw no signs of leaks. I
feel the real test will be when I split another load of wood vs wasting now.
Constant Load will probably make a difference.
After cleaning the old pipe thread sealer, I saw no fresh signs of
leaks. I hate to see a load w/o a Target
to Split as my perpendicular
Ash as a stop. The Little Monster gets Angry
and rises up a bit at 1,500 – 2,000 PSI (on the 4”Sq Tube X 1/4” Thick). It would hit that instantly with the stop vs
splitting.

I will not wait 5 years to ck
for leaks in the future. The spot on the
floor was the worst indication of a leak.
The tank is at an angle, moisture should come out in the fluid. There were no milky signs of moisture in the
fluid on my samples I dipped out of the tank.

After Splitting/Stacking the
Ash I have room for about a 1/4th of a cord w/o getting creative (Under
The Boat, In The Trailer, and In My Wife’s Car, “A Box Marked Do Not Open”,
LOL! The Bottom Line Is Too Much
Stuff!!!

See The Attachments:

Ron,

I have been researching a variety of brands and types of chainsaws over the past several weeks and there is one in particular that I think might interest you. Greenworks 40V Cordless Chainsaw Model# 20312 seems very popular and is well-liked by owners. It comes with a 16-inch bar, Li-Ion battery and charger. The price comes in at around what you are looking for and an added benefit is that Greenworks has several other garden tools that use the same battery which will allow you to get more use out of the battery itself, which you are able to enjoy cordless freedom, fumeless working conditions, and easy starting! I think it would be worth your while to read more about it in thisblog post.