looks great. Have you tried using Milorganite? That will give you more iron

What kind of grass is that? Where are you located? If it's fescue or KBG, it needs 4-5 lbs of nitrogen a year to look its best, with 75% of it applied in the fall.

You can also get a soil test done to see if there's any issues there that may affect color.

There's a few things you can do for a deeper green, you can do just one or all for the ultimate green:

1. Supplement with Ironite.
2. Spray a plant growth regulator like T-Nex 1AQ. In addition to a deeper green this has other effects like reduced mowing by about 50 %, reduced water usage, increased root density.
3. Spray a mix of ferrous sulfate heptahydrate and ammonium sulfate. This is temporary but spectacular.

i live in Ontario canada.. its a mix of 3 different types of grass.. not sure exactly.. kentucky, rye, and the last one not sure..

^^^ Before Ferromec AC application (2 gallon pump sprayer)

2 days After:

What is your watering schedule? How often and for how long. If you're watering more than once a week and fertilizing every month, you're heading for thatch issues. You should be fertilizing at the end of May, first of September, and mid November. You should be watering like this...

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

i water for 25min every morning at 5am.. i find if i do a deep water once a week my lawn dries out.. and fertilize every 5 weeks pretty much

You have 2 issues that are affecting the health of your lawn:

1. You fertilize way too often. This will push top growth at the expense of root development, which will lead to a poorly developed root system.

2.You water too little too often. Since you water briefly every morning, all the water is at the surface, and since that's where the water is, that's where the grass will grow roots. This will lead to a poorly developed shallow root system. To put things in perspective, with the kind of temperatures you're having right now, your grass should go for 2-3 weeks on 1" of water at a minimum.

Between the two items above, you now understand why your lawn dries out after a week.

You should stop fertilizing and not fertilize again until fall. Your lawn will need 3lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq feet in the fall (split into 3 apps) and another pound in late spring the following year. No fertilization is needed or desired in between.

You're not going to be able to switch to deep and infrequent watering cold turkey, but what you can do is start watering longer to get the water deeper into the soil and withholding irrigation until you see signs of drought stress, and only then water again.

Lawns in Phoenix don't dry out at 115 degrees F when they are deep watered every 5 days. If it can be done there it can be done anywhere. If you get your roots down deeper it will work. It is a process to get there. And believe it or not, deep and infrequent watering is a method to get a deeper green color. Here's a picture of morpheuspa's lawn. He deep waters once a week while all the other lawns water daily. Pic was taken in July a few years ago.

Lawns in Phoenix don't dry out at 115 degrees F when they are deep watered every 5 days.

To be fair to the OP though, I don't think you're referring to a cool season grass in that statement.

I think I've seen that picture about 100 times now :-). I really like that shade of green. Mine looks more like Gary S's "after" pic, I think I need to lay off the iron.

Also, to be clear, that pic is in PA, not AZ.

What is the pH of your soil?

That looks spectacular. The only way to improve from there is a soil test & fine tuning in my opinion. While I agree with all comments above, it's tough to argue with results like that! Greenmax carries a lot of iron, so like tractor is asking, maybe your ph is off & the iron isn't able to be used?

Hi, I wanted to check the watering schedule for a sodded lawn and if its ok to put grass seed on it as this year I have a lot of burned spots on my grass. I just fertilized it about a week or 2 ago.

Hey, Sam. Generally, it's smarter to start a new topic, but I can take care of this one here.

You were a little early with the fertilizing, but still in range (ferts go on Memorial Day for most northern lawns, but close enough in this case). The next time to fertilize is Labor Day as lawns don't eat during the summer. After that, October 1, and when the lawn stops growing, but is still green (if it's after November 1, which it usually is for much of the US).

Southern lawns will differ and need to be fed monthly through the season.

If the sod is new, keep it damp for the first two weeks until it starts to root, then back off the watering slowly. If you had to water every other day to keep it damp, go to every third day for two weeks. And so on. If it browns, step it back up. For the first summer, you're going to have to keep an eye on it and play it by ear.

For established lawns, once a week, about an inch of water at a time, is usually OK. It'll vary a bit by soil type, though. I last watered in 2018, but have a bluegrass lawn that's perfectly tolerant of going dormant if necessary, and it usually doesn't. I have a heavy silt soil with huge amounts of spongy organic material.

Seeding...hold it until mid to late August for northern lawns (southern lawns should be seeded now or shortly).