Do these need something?

10 years ago

last modified: 10 years ago

my veggies have been in the ground over a month (all transplants ) I have no clue if they are on track as far as growing or not but they look small the me.. The ones in containers are so much greener and big.... Also are these squash Normal as far as growth? Being planted aboutb5 weeks ago?

I have fertilized 1/2 strength 24-8-16 MG a 2 weeks apart and it helped my tomato's that were yellow turn green and growing great now but these peppers and squash are moving so much slower (to me) this pepper has a pepper already and doesn't look like it could hold them. While some are green pepper plants others next to it are yellowing

fyi: My soil test came back very high in p&k

Yellow watermelon are 1/2 size plant as red in growth.. I thinking of pulling and plant something else being in a month they are less than a foot long vines and reds are 1 1/2 feet or more.. Could it be because I have 2 per hill?

Here are some pics:

Peppers

Peppers and okra

What's wrong.with this pepper...

Squash 4 total in this 7' bed hills 3 feet apart

Featured Answer

rgreen48

10 years ago

last modified: 10 years ago

If all the yellow watermelons are consistently smaller than the reds (all things being equal,) that points to a variety difference rather than a failure of growth. Don't sweat it. Let them grow out and see what you get. You may find that certain varieties do better in your conditions, but early in the growth cycle, unless you have experience with the specific variety, there's no way to know for sure. Besides, sometimes it's better to have a bird in hand.

I agree with galinas, you have already found out that fertilizing helped your tomatoes, so it's a fairly safe conclusion that all the same soil can use the fertilizer that helped the 'maters. The exception may be peppers... I don't like to over fertilize peppers with N. Sure, they need some, and yours may benefit from light applications, but sometimes high N can cause peppers to grow a lot of leaves and few fruits.

Lastly, the 1/2 dose helped clear up the yellowing, so, as galinas said, as time passes you can add more. If what you applied help clear them up, then a little more will help them not only recover what they wanted in the first place, but will supply the little extra they can use to reach their potential. You still need to be careful to not add too much, but you want to try to stay slightly ahead of the 'need' curve. They NEED so much... but they CAN USE a little more.

Next year (actually, in Autumn, and very early next spring) you can add slow release fertilizers that have less ability to burn plants as those soluble ferts. If you are using an organic mulch now, and mulch all winter (or a cover crop,) you'll be adding what amounts to slow release nutrients.

EDIT: also regarding the watermelons... some varieties of crops that are exceptional quality for taste, yield much less than another variety of the same crop. Therefore, what you don't get in yield, a benefit of the home garden is that you can grow a variety purely for it's flavor. So, it's possible that the yellows, if yielding less than the reds, might be better in other ways.

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Comments (9)

galinas
10 years ago
I would feed them after a month , squash has to be bigger already... peppers depend on how big they were when you transplanted them... But generally after a month it is OK to feed.
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Etta T
Original Author
10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago
Just found this pepper in garden what is this yellowing just on tips of lower leaves... Also could the peppers be needing micro nutrients?
galinas
10 years ago
I personally would use miracle gro tomato and vegetable food ion this, but this is me, I know other people do not like miracle gro. But it is balanced and fast acting food that has macro and micro in it.
Etta T thanked galinas
rgreen48
10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago
Here's a link that might help you to understand deficiencies... http://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge_center/crop_guides/pepper/nutritional_requirements/nutritional_disorders_in_peppers/

However, especially with peppers, it can be a watering issue. Peppers like slightly drier mediums than many other crops. Thus, they are more tolerant of droughts. So, first, consider your soil moisture.

If you check the chart in the link, you'll see that yellowing of leaves is a symptom of a few deficiencies. You want though, to look carefully at the yellowing. Sulfur deficiencies, for example, doesn't cause just lower leaves to yellow, it makes all leaves yellow. Magnesium causes yellowing, but veins stay green. Etc...

Yours have yellow veins. So, if your moisture isn't too wet, or too dry, and it's the same soil that caused yellowing in the tomatoes (and cleared up by the MG fert) then you should be able to add some of the MG to clear up the problem. There's a point of yellowing though, at which the plant can recover, but individual leaves are too far gone and the plant will drop those leaves. Such is life.

EDIT: galinas is fast lol... yep, I agree with him. I am one of those who don't favor MG, but it has its place, and your conditions are exactly where it can be a helpful choice.
Peter (6b SE NY)
10 years ago
the squash looks stunted... was it a transplant? These aren't transplants with peat pots were they?
fbx22
10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago
Add some blood meal . I use the miracle gro water soluble stuff on my tomatoes peppers and cucerbits although I do it on a weekly basis until I start seeing flowering. It's great stuff but doesn't stay in the soil for very long. Your raised beds are most likely nitrogen deficient. With your peppers it's hard to tell. Depends what variety and what size they were transplanted at. Some of my transplants were almost but not quite as big as the one pictured in your OP
zzackey
10 years ago
Where did you have your soil tested?
Etta T
Original Author
10 years ago
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