What soil mix are you using and have you fertilized? That soil looks quite woody which could be tying up nutrients.

Rodney

Looks like multiple nutrient deficiencies and likely for some time now given the growth pattern. So like Rodney asked - what fertilizer used and how often fed? Plus would you tell us where you are located, recent unusual weather of late, and how long since planted?

Dave

Looks like a time release on the soil? Or is that slug pellets? When did you transplant them? They look very dry just for starters...but I would pinch off all of those lower leaves..they're going to die anyway.

As the other poster asked, please post your growing zone and what kind of weather you've had.

Where are you? Weather, soil mix, watering, fertilizer? When did the symptoms start? Is this the first time you've grown tomatoes in that bed? Is this the first time you've grown anything in that bed? Is anything else growing in that bed? Are those two large tomatoes hanging from a tiny plant?? Pictures don't tell us much.

Thanks for the responses! I live in Southwest Ohio. Weather has been decent since I planted them on May 31. 70-80s during the day and 60s overnight. Mixture of sun and cloudy days. This is the second batch of tomatoes in these beds. First plants all died also. They were not hardened off so I made sure these were. The soil in the beds is a combination of vermiculite, peat moss and compost. I just feed them using a Miracle Gro plant feed, which are the pellets on the ground. I just noticed within the last 3-4 days they took a turn for the worse. I mistakenly listened to my husband and overwatered them I believe. Others have told me this is a result of overwatering. We did 3 times a day for a few days because it was hot (should not have listened to him!). All other plants planted at the same time are growing fine (peppers, cucumbers and cantaloupe.). I bought liquid copper fungicide to treat them just in case but am unsure if they will survive. The only plants that have tomatoes are on the bush champions, yellow pear and sun sugar. The plants are still small.

The last few days I haven't because it was cooler and I was worried I overwatered them. That is the type of feed I used. I have one that can be dissolved. Will definently do it now! I have a soil test kit coming. Not all of the plants look this way though. It seems to be all the plants from one nursery having problems. Should I remove tomatoes to allow them to put all energy into healing? Thank you so much for your help! I appreciate it very much!! Hopefully I can salvage them!!

Pretty suspicious that both batches of tomatoes died. Weather sounds pretty benign. I'll ask again. Has anything actually grown successfully in these beds? But yes, you have a brand new bed with no intrinsic fertility. It takes a while for bacteria eating the compost and peat moss to make the nutrients that plants need. As a result you need fertilizer, and fertilizer pellets pretty much sit on the surface. A soil test is a smart move. It would be interesting to see what that comes up with.

I don't think removing the tomatoes is going to do anyone any good. They'll starve just as easily in a pot, and they'll get shocked in the process of moving them.

They're in pretty bad shape, but tomatoes are remarkably resilient. When they get the nutrients they need, they'll start sprouting new leaves. At least those that have any green left on them.

"Not all of the plants look this way though. It seems to be all the plants from one nursery having problems."

Now that's interesting. Was there anything different about the plants before planting them that you noticed? Were they rootbound or did they have peat pots or anything?

"I don't think removing the tomatoes is going to do anyone any good. They'll starve just as easily in a pot, and they'll get shocked in the process of moving them."

I think the OP was talking about removing the fruits from the plants, not removing the entire plants.

Rodney

Please don't water by the weather. That can be very misleading. Water by the needs of the plants. Stick your hand down into the soil 3-4 inches and feel it. If it is dry to the feel they need water. And water deep when you do. It is better to water them so that water runs out the bottom of the bed and do it once a week than it is to just give them a little water 3 times a week.

Peat if notorious for repelling water until it gets a good soaking first.

Like Dan I'd just leave the tomatoes on the vines for now. Read the fertilizer directions well and use it regularly until the compost and the stuff on top can begin to break down.

Dave

The first batch that I planted were seedlings I started inside. No hardening off they went from a small green house inside straight to the bed. My fault, they were fried. Nothing else has been in these beds. This is the first year we have planted in these beds. We have 14 total and the 5 tomato beds are the only ones having issues. Everything is growing great! This is the first year we have ever had trouble with tomatoes. Thankfully, most of them are still green on the top.

The only thing I noticed that was different was the color. They did not seem as green as the other plants I bought. Lighter color but all leaves were healthy. No peat pots and the roots seemed fine. Does it matter what time a day I fertilize?

I tested the soil today. pH was neutral, potash adequate, nitrogen adequate and phosphorus surplus.

"I think the OP was talking about removing the fruits from the plants, not removing the entire plants."

Probably right. What in the world are those large tomatoes doing on small plants? Although now that Iook more carefully at the pictures, we're only looking at the very base of the plants. Yellow leaves at the base are just fungus. What does the rest of the plant look like?

Yes, pretty suspicious that the problems are from plants from one nursery.

Here are a few more pictures. It has to be the soil, the 5 planted in potting soil look awesome. It has started with all of them now, not just the one nursery.

the yellowing/brown starts at the bottom then works its way up. Most are all still green at the top.

I was talking about removing the tomatoes from the plants, not the whole plant!

"I tested the soil today. pH was neutral, potash adequate, nitrogen adequate and phosphorus surplus."

This was one of those home test kits? Famous for being inaccurate. Lots of discussions here about them and the false readings they give. What they are actually testing is your water that you added to the kit. Please disregard those results. Especially since the plants clearly show all the signs of nutrient deficiency.

Like you said - "It has to be the soil."

Suggestion: since you have nothing to lose at this point do an experiment. The worst that can happen is that the plants will die and they likely will anyway. So give them each a good dose of Miracle Grow water soluble fertilizer - the blue stuff - diluted in water per the label directions and watch what happens.

Dave

Thanks Dave! Yes it was a home test kit. I figured it could be inaccurate. If they are going to die, should I just replace them?? Refertilize and start over? These darn tomatoes are so frustrating!!!

That's why I was asking if there was ANYTHING growing successfully in that soil. Still not clear. Could be herbicide laced compost, but the plants seem to have gotten pretty big before they were affected by it.

Lots of bottoms-up diseases around. Yellow at the bottom sounds a lot like fungus. Are you treating with fungicide? Purple is usually phosphorous deficiency, but could be disease.

Yes, we have 9 other beds with the same soil that are growing fine. However after examining they are not nearly as green as they should be. I have not treated with a fungicide but was planning too. Just in case!

"However after examining they are not nearly as green as they should be."

Then you have your answer. Feed them.

Whether you want to replace them or not is your choice. I always prefer to salvage if possible which is why I suggested the experiment. You could see new growth with 48 hours. But if you replace them you will have the same problems unless you fix the underlying problem - the lack of nutrients in the soil.

Don't get me wrong - personally I don't like MG but it will fix your plants and get you through this season until you can use the fall and winter to massively amend the beds.

As for fungicide - also your choice. It won't save the plants. They are sick because they are weak and stressed. When a kid has the measles it doesn't help anything to slap a bandage on his skinned up knee.

Dave

Thanks Dave for all your help!! I'm not a huge fan either but am stuck now!