It would be helpful if you could include links to what you have been reading so we're all on the same page for discussion. The literature on it is very diverse and often contradictory in its claims made and methods used.

It isn't a common practice by any means, especially for the home gardener.

Dave

Are you talking about green mustard treatment? I did that, difficult to say if results were good. I did it just once - it should be more effective after several years.

Here is a link...

http://web.cals.uidaho.edu/soilbiochem/category/biofumigation-projects/

I was asking in general, not just mustard, but others in that family, too.

Donna - do you have an issue which you are wanting to address with these techniques?

" Does it make sense? Anyone doing it with good results?"

It makes sense? In part, and in theory. As for quality of the results it depends on the reason, the pest issue you have that you are using it for and how aggressively you practice it.

I have issues with RKN (root knot nematodes) and used mustard and radish as a winter cover crop 3 years in a row from 2007 through 2010 and had a small reduction in the problems each year but it wasn't a substantial improvement. I continue to use them as green manure crops (mixed with others) but in 2012 I used beneficial SF nematodes with far better and far faster results.

So like floral said, what is the particular problem you are trying to fix?

Dave

Not really any particular problem...I have the usual pests, squash vine borers, flea beetles, but I am handling them with netting and BT...I was just wondering if it was worth the effort? I have a huge compost pile that I top dress with every year, and my plants grow well...the idea was new to me, and I was just wondering how many have used it with what results.

Well it's goal is directed at soil dwelling pests and disease organisms and most of the common garden pests don't fall into that class. But it has a secondary benefit of soil tilth and nutrient improvement.

So given that goal it doesn't require much effort - scatter sowing mustard/radish/similar green manure seeds over the whole garden in the fall and tilling or turning the plants in in the spring 4 weeks before planting.

Dave

On the contrary it does require a lot of detailed effort if you wish to accomplish the primary goal of soil biofumigation. Timing of the entire sequence of actions in order to incorporate the biofumigant chemical into the soil efficiently is critical. Usually the larger acreage grower uses specialized equipment to accomplish those goals. Although the small gardener may gimmick the process of biomass soil incorporation, the actual results will be very variable and often minimal in value.

Of course one can make the process as complex as they wish but for the average home gardener who isn't running a multi-acre commercial operation it can also be relatively simple and moderately effective. Is it the most effective approach? No, even its advocates don't make that claim. But when a fair degree of specific soil pest eradication is the goal it is one method available and has the secondary benefit of soil improvement at the same time.

Dave