Most soils are fixable :-)) It's just a matter of knowing what to add. If mostly old MG soil then some mineral soil (native soil/topsoil) would be helpful as well as adding more compost. The addition of compost or other organic matter is generally considered a first step in improving just about any less-than-desirable soil condition.

And skip the peat moss. Unless you need to acidify the soil, it adds nothing of value.

ok, I bought some bagged "topsoil" at walmart yesterday for $1.32 a bag. I was going to use it for some containerized tropicals, but I will put it on the garden.

You never want to use "top soil" or garden soil for containerized plants. Only a potting soil formulated specifically for gardening in pots or containers.

Conifer bark fines (fines, not mini nuggets) are one of the best soil amendments, as far as I'm concerned.

I am assuming that you are incorporating all of this with your native soil.

this is no longer native soil, it was amended with miracle grow before I got here. I need to get something instead of dust (which is what I have now).

Simplest is to add organic matter, and especially a thick layer of mulch (like wood chips or bark or whatever) on top to keep moisture and temperature under control and get the soil food web underneath going. You can do as much work as you want (digging and burying like in trench composting) or as little (top load and wait). My own suggestion would be to use and bury (or at least cover with mulch) some less-composted materials (like discard apples or fruit/veggie waste or unfinished compost, or something more 'rich' than just woodchips) in a trench or a series of holes, or mixed in. You don't mention how big this plot is but sounds like you will mainly need just a lot more organic materials/compost than you've been using, and good mulch. You may also want to plant some hardy cover/green crop to add to the variety. It will take mainly some time and moisture after that. As for the 'dustiness', when enough organic materials get in there, it should start to combine/collude with the other materials and be held together with things like mushroom hyphae.

Determine how much organic matter that soil has. Miracle Gro "garden soil" is organic material and it sounds like you have too much organic matter. Adding more, peat moss, compost, etc. will not do much. Soils need about 6 to 8 percent organic matter and much more will not make a soil better and can create more problems. Perhaps therse simple soil tests mayh be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

kimmq is kimmsr

ok, I don't have a jar.

#2: too fast, the soil is like dust, everything just goes through it.

#3: that worked, clumps together then falls apart

#4: it varies in different parts of the garden, the majority has a sand smell and the rest smells faintly of sulfur (never used sulfur on this bed)

#5: no worms, at all, period nothing. I wouldn't want to live there either.

Agree with kimmsr. It sounds like the organic matter content may be very high, which is why some are suggesting mineral soil rather than more organic matter. And yes, skip the peat moss regardless. It has virtually no nutrient value and if you needed organic matter, compost or degradable mulches are cheaper and more locally produced.

Have you considered a soil test? Not sure where you are but if in the 50 States there may be an Ag Extension office that can get you an inexpensive test for NPK, organic matter, pH and minerals. Then you know what you're dealing with.

I'm going to guess it's a nitrogen deficiency. If there is a lot of undegraded organic matter from all that stuff that's been added, it may suck up N quickly. There may also be deficiencies of other nutrients, but if you added fresh compost, I would not expect that. So my best guess w/o a soil test would be to add some fertilizer that is relatively high in N and lower in P and K. Even lawn fert would work - 29-3-3 for example, if you have some laying around. Just make sure it doesn't have weed killer in it.

How's the moisture, are there tree roots when you dig, how about sun?

Can you post a pic of the garden showing the surrounding area?

What is your base soil type in your area? Sandy it sounds like.

Actually the soil here is typically a heavy red clay. In this area it is sandy. There are two large sweetgum trees with extensive root-systems. I have removed most of their rootmass. Maybe they are sucking up all of the nutrients? I can't remove them even though I hate them.

can post picture later and I have tried fertilizers.

Actually you could use some silt and clay in there it sounds like. If it drains too fast and is dry, it may help retain water. Problem is finding any. The bagged topsoils can vary a lot - some are mostly ground bark and other organic matter, some are mineral soil but vary in composition from sand to silt to clay. Always poke a bag and examine the contents before buying. Fine grained soil and low organic matter is what I would be putting in there. Some folks have used clay based cat litter as an amendment - search "cat litter" in this forum.

If there is too much peat moss and similar types of organic material, that stuff can actually repel water when dry so any water sprayed on will channel through and not even wet all of the soil. Another good reason to halt peat moss and evaluate organic matter content with a lab test.

I added the bagged topsoil. It is an almost black soil with nothing else in it. I am guessing that it has no organic matter.

I'm going to suggest something odd.

See, in cases like, this it's very difficult, without seeing and actually feeling the soil in person, to know what the problem might be, or even if there's truly a 'problem'. Not to say that there isn't, but sometimes things just take time.

So, along with what you've done thus far, and you've said that you planted a Red Bud for shade, I would take a large-ish branch or small tree trunk or 2, along with a couple good sized rocks (with a few smaller ones next to them) and put them strategically where the shade falls. They don't have be in total shade, but many of the organisms which work soils and make that really good garden soil prefer cool, moist conditions. The web of life that will take refuge in, under, and around those rocks and logs is perfect for incorporating the ingredients that you've described. Such accoutrements also add a touch of natural elegance to a perennial planting.

I have plenty of logs and rocks, I will try that.

I missed the post where you said you had big sweetgums. If they have shallow root systems, they will absolutely suck out a ton of water. I have silver maples and parts of my gardens are constantly dry unless it just rained. I just can't put down enough water. Plants there look spindly and pale. I've removed a couple trees and this year I started adding a lot more N and things look better. Doesn't hurt that we had the 3d wettest July on record and it's still raining in August. Even if tree roots are not right in the top 6-12", the ones lower down will pull down moisture and nutrients from the top layers.