Ok... don't know what your friend did but I'm with you - I don't think she really knew about everything she was doing. Just putting nicks in the trunk will not promote growth. It looks like she just cut X marks into the trunk? That is just silly.

You said she did a repot too? Is that mix 1/2 cactus & succulent mix and 1/2 perlite? It looks like that be the case, and if so that will be fine for the jade.

In the first picture, the trunk at about 5 o'clock looks rotted - and is likely a goner. The other 3 look a bit barren, but generally healthy. Since they just endured a lot of trauma 6 weeks ago I, personally, would just leave the plant in a well lit area (where it is at in that picture looks good to me) and just give it some TLC. Remove that rotted trunk without touching or disturbing the others. Water the plant thoroughly - meaning until water is coming out of the bottom - once every 4-weeks or so. Because that pot is so big it'll hold water for a while. You only want to water it after the soil has dried out. When winter comes you will water even less frequently.

Come spring I would suggest looking into gritty mix and planning a repot into some.

Alternatively - if you really wanted to be ballsy, as I often am due to impatience. You could repot now into gritty mix, and cut those trunks about 1/2 way down with a clean blade. Cutting them back like that will result in new growth from where you cut it back. BUT it has to have the energy to do so. Since you are saying that the plant is not showing much growth in the last 6 weeks I would hypothesize that it does not have the stored energy to bounce back too well right now. The safe move would be to baby through winter and make a firm plan for spring.

Also - where are you at? Your zone will influence recommendations.

Sorry for adding, but do net let her near your plants - I believe she read something and didn't understand, and applied to wrong plant (one will nick the trees...not jades).

IMO, that plant is overpotted and the soil isn't that great either.

You should check it thoroughly for possibly more rot: gently keep squeezing trunks/branches to feel if there is any softness. If yes, it may have more rot. (Sometimes, limbs get 'limpy' if they are thirsty, but I don't think that's your case - how often has it been watered?)

You already got lots of advice. Pls. ask should you not be sure about something - just to make sure more serious mistakes are not made.

It's not too far gone, and there is new growth. LONG TERM, do you put it outdoors for the warm weather months? That would help it fatten up and make it stronger.

I wouldn't sweat it. These plants are very resilient as stated above.

I would make repotting into a much smaller pot with appropriate potting medium a priority.

Suggestions above will definitely make a difference, with the one regarding outdoor time being top of the short list.

I too, am interested in where you are located and what this plant looked like before.

I'm in Salt Lake City - zone 5. I've always taken it outside in the warmer months. It's about time to bring it in.

It's definitly too tall as it is. Ideally I think I would want to cut about half way down as deva suggested, let the cuttings callus over and see if I can get those going too. I'm kind of concerned with why the scars where branches were removed haven't done anything. Even in the past when I've cut it back just a bit to promote new growth it's just scarred over on the main trunks instead of sprouted any new buds. Any thoughts on that?

I think the mix is decent - it's miracle grow cactus soil mixed with sand and perlite. And yes there are a couple drainage holes and some gravel at the bottom of the pot

I may have some pictures of it before....let me see if I can find some.

Thank you for all of your wisdom and encouraging words!!

Alison, sand is bad for succulents unless it is coarse horticultural grade. Regular sand will compact around the roots. Also, gravel at the bottom of the pot does nothing for drainage. It's an old tale that just won't go away.

Good advice above. Good luck to you and your plant!

Found some pictures. You can see it's always been very leggy which I didn't really realize was a sign that it needed more light. Where it sits on the porch in all of the pictures, it gets all of the southern sun and there is a street right in front of my house, not another house so it gets a ton of afternoon sun. Sort of puzzles me why it's so stretched out.

Before the incident :)

Well for someone that was supposed to help, there's another two big mistakes made....using sand in a mix and putting gravel in the base of a pot for any type of plant, not just for succulents, aren't considered good practices.

I assume the porch is roofed over? Does the sun actually shine onto the plant?If not, that would be why it's got etiolated. They can take direct sun, I have seen them growing wild in SA with no rooves over them!

Horticultural gravel, chicken grit, or even aquarium gravel would have been better than using sand. If you can get any if these then make a mix of thirds...gravel, perlite and some of the mix it's currently in. The gravel will give the pot and the plant stability.

Gill

In reference to the before the incident pic, a question is it sun set time on the morning sunlight front of your adobe porch ?

If so I know it would do a-lot better if elevated. The pot and plant needs to be held stable from winds on the higher rails where the other black empty looking buckets ( pots) are. Put it there ASAP. Even better if to the right side front top rail.

Sand from the beach or the play ground is a no no but why not use it if it's from a BBS builders sand bag after sifted Technically this BBS bagged builders sand isn't sand at all it's actually gravel and provides plenty of aeration for sufficient drainage after sifting.

ROB ( rocks on the bottom): A quick peek at your pot top IMO looks to dark or to lean What happens is, the dark lean stuff on top ends up clogging the works from top to bottom and ROB also clogs and often cakes the areas where you want water to drain to AKA bottom drainage holes. Like your zone ( Which might be important to some but not all ) ROB sizes could also be mentionedr

Personally ( a bit of a risk to mention ) less is more at times and can also remove some confusions ( sometimes) I favor rocks on the bottom as long as there is nothing else in the pot and your not afraid to water.

More sun: even though it doesn't remove etiolated parts it needs more sun but be careful if to warm don't aim for hot keep it close to 90 F MAX this time of the year on the warmest side 50'ish'es F for lows. To warm: The dryer cut ends seen in pic will harden off to fast hot deters new growth to a stop and can often curl branches in odd directions. If to HOT DON'T COOL WITH WATER wait for cool to water or move it to cool for watering then return it later in the day or next day.

It it gets sun from about 3pm to about 7 during the longer days. Not as much now that the days are shortening. Here's the view from the front of the house. I wrote that it was southern facing earlier - its west facing. My mind is failing me.

It will be coming in in the next couple of days as our evening temps will get close to or below 50. I'll bring it back out during the days and stick it right in full sun and off of the porch and see how it fairs. I am really tempted to cut it back now! Is that the very worst idea? I do have a clip on reflector light with a grow bulb that I can use inside as well. Am I nuts to take that risk?

I am really tempted to cut it back now! Is that the very worst idea?

IMO to this Yes it's not a good idea as it is soon to be heading inside for the winter I'd agree to removing some of the lower lanky leaves once in with a twist but do keep the upper leaves as the plant ( and you) needs something to help along the winter months ahead.

I do have a clip on reflector light with a grow bulb that I can use inside as well. Am I nuts to take that risk?

Your grow bulb ( Q&A for you) it's ummmm CFL ? LED ? Color range? wattage ? and all that info would be needed then if you like we can suggest bulb burn times If not able to provide this answer I imagine (soon) a thread will start that covers indoor lighting options with pics and all.

Well personally I don't think your nuts at all but you would be with out considering a form of circulating air while the bulb is on It'll help your plants greatly.

Even though I've told it several times my jade still doesn't know where it is either , I'm in New England it's located in the north east corner of the USA. You live in what area of the globe again ?

Your front of house is getting apx the same sun times as the rear side at my adobe during the longest brighter warmer summer months, it helps but the same location all year long just isn't enough brightness time for any jade Late July - Sept - and or until bought in.

To summarise, whatever you do your plant now as regards pruning, re-planting, re-rooting the prunings etc. if it doesn't get much more direct sunlight (when fully recovered From surgery!) than it's currently been getting, I'm afraid you will get the same results...an etiolated plant, albeit a smaller one than you have at the moment. 4 hrs daily on your longest days just isn't enough for good Jade growth...as mentioned in my earlier post , and others. The fact that the porch faces west is another problem too. Is there anywhere else it could be situated to give it a better chance of catching those essential rays Alison?

Gill

Thinking a rear right corner area of the OP'S adobe would provide better direct sun light time but it would still need to be transition to that area next spring. I imagine a new thread in spring 2017 or follow up on this one pic if supported with shade and or shadows and other visual info would also help.

Dang! I posted yestersay in regards to the indoor lighting and it's disappeared! So here we go again...

I have done some reading on some succulent sites about lighting. I purchased 4 100 watt daylight 5,000 k fluorescent CFL bulbs and have two clip on reflector fixtures. It's time to move all succulents indoors here (SLC, UT), at least in the evenings. I have two south facing windows at the driveway side of our house, so they get extra light from the reflection off of the concrete. My concern is that both windows have awnings on them. I have two large west facing windows that I think might be better just because of the awning situation but I'm wondering what you all think.

South facing awning window:

West facing window - much larger and as you can see, it gets extra afternoon sun because there is no house directly across from it. Ideally I would put everything in the larger window and I could just use the CFL bulbs to supplement, especially as the days get shorter.

I also have all of these that need to come in so I'm looking for a lot of space. Any ideas / thoughts / suggestions?

A racking system Click here they come in a few different sizes in width and height.

Crazy prevention measures Click here Tip: If your lights are on the link thing is on.

Suggested shelf lay out and pot placement plan

Hang your lighting on the top shelf and mount the crazy prevention device in a direction toward the closest corner ( if possible) for a second bounce of air off the wall per say. Shorter plants on sill sitting on coasters or dry drip trays microfiber towels or what ever you can think of that will help to prevent the wood from rotting you can always change a tray or rag for a lot less than a inside sash, just know water will and does find a way You can place the taller pots on a racking inward from the window bulb distance needs to be comfortable for two things

One the plants, two you reaching in for the smaller pots in the event of watering needs

I'll post a pic later of a plant less racking and lighting system I use inside during winter, being used during the colder rainy night tonight as a temporary and warmer than outside night time station.

Some nice succulents you have already IMO you should consider a taller rack than you intended to get for a racking system just as a suggestion Click here. Try black I assure you it hides the rust stains so much better.

Question about your bulbs, Four foot CFL tube bulbs ? Can you post pics of them clip on lighting fixtures if possible ?

One of my four foot racks with lighting noticed by the messy 3 year old foil reflector. I tend to agree that reflecting light it is a little more efficient and effective on the older tube type bulbs while others may have a different opinion.

I've been to lazy to remove the foil reflectors I updated several CFL bulbs to lower wattage use LED bulbs last year that are much more downward direct they would not be any need for foil reflectors Pic also shows 45 minutes of door wide morning sun light reaching inside, late May that same lower sun sunlight is gone wouldn't be there ever or at all if there was a hanging awning.

IMO 5000 K okay should work for you for the winter months it's the 100 Watt each that's plenty of DRY bulb heat filling in the area/room ( maybe even to much ) Id be somewhat concerned about the residing heat that many 100 watt bulbs will produce during and after burn times. What I do is draw the upper window down apx 1/4 inch or so and stuff the open with a dry towel Are those low E energy efficient windows no concern if not that awning is doing you a real big favor during the the summer but not so much in favors during winter.

One does what they will do but fact is some succulents like it cooler most of yours do.

Nomen - thanks for the example!! I actually have a black shelf just like that - a tall 5 shelf one. The bulbs I have are not tubes but the efficient coiled ones. I got a box of 5 and have three of the round clip on reflector fixtures. I realize that the tube system is probably better, but I am feeling that I will be able to get enough window light that I won't need tubes.

I was getting more and more concerned about the amount of sand that may be accumulating around the roots of my jade, so I pulled them out and gave them a good rinse. If I were to take the risk and cut them back now, any suggestions on best method? Here are the two main plants in my driveway - they are about 36" tall overall.

A couple more questions - how deep would you plant the root end. Because of its height and girth it obviously needs to be a ways down so the soil can support it. If I whack them, should I wack to above the v joint on both to produce a fuller plant?

thanks again!!! You've all been amazing help!

Ouch they are not looking good at all Thinking ROB may have had a hand in the root rot damage.

IMO your soil was to rich/ lean and lacked the sufficient drainage needed Your in the woods pretty deep for a nicer looking jade with some healthy root

Pros and cons: Pro jades don't need roots to survive.

Seen in pic this one was with no root two years seasons ago they where pinched off VIA tight small sized substrates. When gifted to me it was stuck in a rectangular pot shaped brick per say. I used a hammer and pounded the brick for an hour to free the base from it with great failure after which I called and thanked my friend ( the gifter) for the way they had watered it. They thanked me for freeing up some space and wanted me to enjoy

My con the Mrs doesn't want me to sweep it so upright it will go

Your Con soil/ mixes are in the 1000's X 100's here lots to read and figure out

Pro a pic that shows a mix that I use that I can water \ water heavily and even daily if need be ( @ 104 -107 F for 12 - 13 hours every day during the warmest times of summer at this adobe it's going to need something)

My pro always at the ready

Con all rot no root

Pro cut and toss in the trash barrel all the rot below the red line

Con the waiting for root to re establish

Pro as mentioned jades can survive with out a root

Con jades cant grow with out a root

Pro cut jades don't need a lot of light to develop new root

Cons jades need warmth to root

With the warm con on the forefront keep yours inside until it's back in a pot with root While inside warmer does require watering keep in a bright area that gets no lower than 65 F

Con again TIME and some clean cut area misting will be needed

Pro has some foliage on it IMO it's best to keep as much as you have now cant put on what is already gone if in the event you cut already could have been cut later.

Con The time it may take to root enough to have back in a pot depends souly on you and how you handle the re- rooting stages

Pro Like every other plant out there most every jade can be tricked too but is tricky to do

Con sorry it's the wrong time of the year to trick it

jade pro close up pics will help.

Thanks for your reply nomen - I am fairly sure these are not rotted. They are very wet in the images I attached earlier because I had just rinsed the sand off of them. There is little to no rooting going on, but they actually show more small thin new growth roots since my friend repotted and hacked it up. The roots are very firm and don't feel soft at all. I'm going to put together a mix tomorrow that will drain much better like you suggested.

Alison, they may not be rotted, but they look very much like they are on their way to rot. Someone with more expertise may step in and correct me, but I would be concerned about rot at this point. I think nomen's suggestion to cut them down is a good one. But, then again, others may have a different opinion.

Do not rush to assuming the worse and cutting without thorough checking first. It may not be necessary to cut all off.

If my plants, this is what I would do: (take photos and post if not sure) -

1. pat dry with a kitchen paper towel to soak up as much moisture as possible

2. fell the stems/trunks for any softness. There is difference between soft from rotting and soft in limp, thirsty plant. If trunks feel soft above the roots, do as nomen suggested, cutting off all the ends including existing roots.

3. cut a slice off of the very end, maybe 1/4" thick, and see what color the flesh is. If it has any black/dark spots at all, that is likely rot. In that case, keep cutting similar slices off until only light-colored flesh is visible. It should be light green, whitish, creamy color. If rotted, you may have to cut off a lot. Do not worry if this happens, just make sure you get healthy flesh. If you need to cut above the existing roots, plant will re-root with proper care.

4. double-check health of roots; it maybe visible if they are dry (cut of dry/dead ends); they may be soft/mushy and sort of slimy - that is rot. Cut off until healthy. Color of roots varies, they could be very light or bit darker but should be quite firm - if rotted, one should be able to tell. Sometimes, rotted pieces may have foul odor (not always).

5. after all cleaning and checking, dust the cut trunks ends lightly with powdered cinnamon (natural fungicide), or flowers of sulfur. Not absolutely necessary.

6. let callus cut pieces for day or few, out of direct sun but in space that has good air circulation.

7. assemble (or buy) well-draining mix. Pic of mix nomen posted gives you good idea. Tell us what you have available or what you can get easily to suggest how to mix. I use mix of grit+sifted perlite and some turface. There are many ways to assemble a good mix.

8. get a pot with drainage holes, do not get pot that is huge. Fill with new mix, and pot the trunks. Deeper than it was may not be needed - it depends if you had to cut much off or not. Inserting it deeply because it may be wobbly doesn't help - plant will be stable once roots grow in and anchor it. Use large rocks to support the plant temporarily. If really heavy, it is possible to tie it down. Keep plant in spot that won't get 'bumped' easily. Leave it out of strong sun for few days immediately after repotting, but it will need as much light as possible, with whatever sunlight you can supply, to grow well. Good air circulation is also beneficial.

Use sharp blade for cutting, and wipe clean between the cuts with a paper/cloth towel moistened with rubbing alcohol, or even bit of bleach in order not to spread possible rot.

Sorry for the long post. It is quite simple after you try first time. Ask any further q you may have...

Thank you thank you!! I cut off the root ends on both. Do these ends look ok? At this point I'm doubting any judgement I have and relying 100% on you experts

I'm worried about the darkening around the outside edge of this one ⬆️

I would cut that bottom one again. You're right- those dark areas around the edges look suspicious.

Alison

The top one I would recut; I am only looking at photos, but if you compare them, top has still some dark/brownish marks, right around the center. The 2nd one looks all green to me.

The next cut make a V shape from the top downward removing the questionable discolored outer areas

I edited your pic of one with a very poor 3-D line suggested edit from a side view of a good 2 D photo If you have time or aren't sure of the suggested cutting from my 3-D editing post a pic of them in an upright position VS the side view seen in current pics.

You want to keep as much green (including foliage) as possible.

Red lines are what I would cut away where blue and purple show a ( failed editing) of an up to down ward angle of greener areas that would be best if kept.

I do not want to disagree much with what others say, but trunk in pic #2 doesn't seem to have same problem as #1. The darker areas, close to the outer 'skin' are still green, I do not see sign of rot. I would consider cutting more and whole slice, not just edges, if there was blackish/brownish color to it, similar as #1. Please touch gently outside at same spots/places to feel if it is very soft - in that case I probably would cut some more off. If there is any rot there, cutting just pieces may not help.

Please, remember that we are looking only at the photos - they are pretty good, but sometimes things could be bit different than what the photo shows. (Or the way different ppl see things pictured.)

After you are finished with cutting, you could use powdered cinnamon or flowers of sulfur to lightly dust the cuts - I am not sure if it was mentioned (not absolutely necessary, but both are fungicide and may help). Then let callus and continue as described.

I tend to agree with Rina here. The first one, although not bad, could have been more green inside. It is pale and yellow. Also I would make clean slices across the whole stem, say 1/4 inch to see if it looks any better. Otherwise, just let dry and callus before planting.