Excellent. A side question, is there much difference in cold tolerance of KBG vs fescue? Not that it gets very cold around here.

Since I'm a little low on K, what would a "modest amount" be? I've added about 2 pounds of K so far since my soil test in July, half as muriate, half as sulfate (I found K2SO4 - yay! "Greens grade" $$$$ - boo!)

I probably didn't recommend any late K (I don't tend to recommend P or K late, actually), so you can skip it. Unless it was so short it was deeply deficient, in which case I also probably DID recommend a late app. :-) Unless it's a real problem, I'd skip it.

Tentatively, I'd say that KBG is equally cold tolerant with fescue on average, but it very strongly depends on the cultivar and how it's treated. My bluegrass won't go dormant until temperatures fall under 15°. However, by that time, all the neighbors' lawns have been brown for months (KBG/fescue/rye mixes).

Overall? Rye is the most cold tolerant. My neighbor's ryegrass lawn outcompetes mine in February and March. But I outcompete him effortlessly June through September--rye does not like hot weather.

Hey guys I have a no name winterizer I got on clearence. 32-0-10. Is this too much K for last application? Do the benefits outweigh the risks?

I read somewhere that K increases chance of snow mold. Unless I'm mistaken, the snow mold concern is for northern lawns that spend weeks or months under snow/ice. I don't know what K has to do with the risk... but without sunlight or airflow, the turf could be at increased risk of disease, I suppose, once things start to thaw out and it's wet for long periods of time. Especially if it's been walked in while frozen... the blades cracking open (breaking every 1/3 mowing rule) and possibly the crowns getting trampled.

In my area of VA, we miiiight get a day or two of consecutive snow cover. That means our turf will be more exposed to drying out due to the winter winds. I imagine it's about the same in NC. I think the K might be more helpful here because it will be "colder" because it wouldn't have the insulation of snow. But I'm just guessing and don't know for sure.

Here is an article about rethinking fall fertilization. Late season potassium can increase snow mold (for yards that lie under snow for weeks). Frank Rossi also has an Oct 2015 podcaston Turfnet Radio about fall nitrogen.

Rossi is the man

Yep, if snow mold is a concern (strangely, for me here in PA it actually isn't; snow cover that lasts long enough is pretty rare), skip the K. I'd actually go a little low-end on the N as well just to make absolutely sure that a late warm front doesn't result in fresh, juicy, susceptible green growth!

@denvernugs42

It's OK, and rather than throw it out, I'd suggest you use it. In the future, I'd try to get something lower in K for winterization. However, this isn't going to be extremely high, and for the 1 pound of N you'll be applying, about 0.25 pounds of elemental K will also go. That's fine.