Here's the first picture

Four hours of full sun won't really do for good fruit production. That said, if the rest of the day it still gets some diffuse light, you'd be able to manage some. You would probably need to thin fruit that did come so the tree could concentrate energy there.

Summer might get more sun, as the sunrise and sunset will shift. So it may get more or less - depending on the obstructions position relative to that movement.

Unfortunately, since you have lots of mature trees, any fruit you do have will probably be eaten by tree rats (or pecked by birds). But you can cage some fruit to ensure you get some.

:( not what I wanted to hear :) any fruit type that will do good in that amount of sun, if the ones I mentioned need more sun.?

Sunlight can vary due to the angle of the sun. I know areas of my yard gets much more sun during the summer than in the fall. It looks like a pear or peach might do ok in the area you are talking about. It is hard to tell in a picture.

Susu, I would cut down more old ugly tree's and replace them with a bunch of small and medium tree's, the kind that are beautiful to look at.I did that and i am tickle to death now.

I'm ok with not getting a tree full of fruits. 50 pears a season hopefully not high expectations:)

But I don't want the sun light issue to create disease problems, which could mean no fruit at all.

I like the idea of growing my own fruit. Maybe it's worth a try. Thank you everyone for helping me realize that I need to have lower expectations and work harder when growing conditions are not ideal.

Unless, your summer sunlight is much improved, I would not hope to get 50 ripe fruit (and as i mentioned, I'd probably clip most and focus on getting a smaller number of good quality). . One issue will be that the fruit trees will get lanky as they try to reach to the sky to get more sun. So besides pests getting their share, you'll have to get a ladder or bucket truck as the tree starts fruiting. I've got two pear trees that are partially shaded but still get 6 hours of good sun and they shoot up and i have to keep clipping them down. I would think that with 4 hours, that would might be a bigger issue.

Pears can take 4 to 10 years to start bearing, Peaches and plums will make fruit in 2 to 3 years. Morning sun is better to prevent diseases such as brown rot since the leaves will dry out quicker than if you have afternoon sun.

If the sun is coming from the south, you should get more sunlight in the summer. The angle to the sun is more severe now than it will be in the summer.

Pawpaw trees will do great with that amount of light, and no spraying needed.

If you're set on a pear, I've heard Harrow Sweet on a semi-dwarfing rootstock can produce the third year. A few people have said they got a few pears the second year. Variety is very important as some pears are notoriously tardy about fruiting.

The other thing is, most pears need a pollinator, so you'd need 2 trees, or a multi-grafted tree. Or, you could graft a branch or two of a different variety on the tree as well.

Plug your address into suncalc.net to see the path/height of sun at different times of year. November sun doesn't really matter, it's what you get in growing season that matters. I have trees that get a few hours of sun now but full sun in the summer. There are tall cypress of my neighbor that block the light because the angle of the sun is lower close to winter solstice. Have you considered berry plants? They are quicker to fruit, do better with less light than fruit trees, have less disease problems, and kids love them!

If you decide not to put in trees, please don't put in a see saw. They are exceptionally dangerous. When you are at the top and you fall, it is a long ways down.

I'm reading up on varieties you mentioned . Harrow Sweet sounds delicious.

I have never tasted a paw paw.

I haven't even seen one in a store. Have to taste one before I grow one.

I try to stay away from berries for this area because they grow messy. I'm trying to keep everything off ground, not let it turn into a huge bushes of raspberry. Since kids play next to the area. Thought a dwarf fruit tree would be compact enough to keep clean, off the ground.

If you decide to go with peaches or plums it is usually better to plant regular size trees and trim them back. Citation is the dwarfing rootstock for peaches and I have not had good luck with it. Dwarfing trees are harder to grow than regular trees due to lack of vigor. Apples might be another option. Sometimes it is worth driving around the neighborhood and see what fruit trees other people are growing.

There is no harm in trying. Worst case scenario is it does not work and you are out a couple years worth of growing. I myself am in zone 4b. I have heavy clay. I have standing water in fall/winter. Some spots are shaded a bit or close to a willow tree that my wife won't let me cut down (their roots are water hogs). Many people told me to not even bother planing anything. All that aside I have planted apples, pears, plums, ect and so far they seem to be doing fine. In your area I would try planing some apple trees on medium/large rootstock (for vigor) and use branch bending and summer pruning to maintain the size you want. In the shaded area plant earlier bearing apple varieties (No Goldrush or Enterprise for you) that will have a better chance of ripening even without full sun. Give it a shot, you never know!