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Mineral Spirits is cloudy? Is this causing the problem?

I noticed this container of Mineral Spirits I had around (in the attached garage) was cloudy when I poured it out. I’d never seen that before, so I checked the label and saw it was “odorless”. I thought that maybe that is just the way it looks. I used it as normal for cleaning off brushes after staining. The can I poured for cleaning my brushes did clear after a while.

I waited 2 days after staining. Then last night I did what I normally do, and blended 2 kinds of polyurethane together, satin and semi-gloss (because I like a finish half way between the two). Then cut it with about half mineral spirits, to make it dry faster. I do this to reduce the dust that falls into the surface. This is no different from what I’ve done many times before. It looks like butterscotch in the jar. Both cans of finish were new and stirred thoroughly.

I checked about 12 hours later, to see if it was ready for sanding. To my surprise, it’s still tacky. So I turned the dehumidifier on, which has been off since the heat was turned on. Turned on a swing-arm incandescent lamp to provide a little mild warmth. I just checked again: no real difference, 7 hours later. I had even brushed a thinner coat then usual. I have never had half strength poly not dry to the touch really quickly, so to be able to recoat the next day if not earlier.

I don’t normally finish at this time of year. But I avoided rainy days. I misplaced my humidity meter, which I normally check before finishing.

What do you think? Humidity, or something wrong with the mineral spirits? Will I need to remove it?
Thanks.

Comments (5)

  • 9 years ago

    I've never heard of or seen such a thing, but I'd be extremely suspicious of cloudy mineral spirits. There are some new "VOC compliant" versions around, but I wouldn't trust them for anything other than washing out brushes (if that) without extensive testing. I'm assuming that you're using oil-based poly.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Poly needs moisture in the air to cure. It's lacquer and shellac that do poorly in very damp conditions. Moving air also helps.

    I think I recall seeing some white low-voc paint thinner on a job once, but I avoided it.

    Hopefully the two different poly's were from the same line of the same brand. If they were different brands, that's a no-no.

  • 9 years ago

    I once used a 'new' can of floor poly--- it would not dry either---turns out that 'new' can(bought from a home improvement store) was three years over the Use By date.

    Like Casey wrote, mixing brands is a no-no as is mixing batch amounts or widely varying Use By dates.

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks. I'll check the dates. Both cans are by the same manufacturer.

    I really wish now I'd done a test first. Until recently, I'd always used turpentine when thinning poly. As an artist, I'd always used turpentine to dilute oil paint. And thinner to clean my brushes. But then I read on some forum that using turpentine was unnecessary, that mineral spirits was good enough. Otherwise I would have reached for the can or turpentine when mixing my finish.


    I will let it dry a few days, before deciding if I need to remove it. The walnut table top will be ok. That's drier than the 2 oak pieces. Don't know why.

  • 9 years ago

    Finish that fail's to dry is one of the most disappointing problems one can have. If it eventually dry's it will likly not be durable so I would remove it now rather than later. Right or wrong,what I've done is let surface dry a few extra days after cleaning before staining/refinishing.