I've read 1.5 to 2 times the width of window. I'd have the rod the width of the entire wall. Hang high rod, toward ceiling. Two of the 100" w. panels should do it. The PB panels seem OK.

Another option is to go with grommet top and layer in two std size panels on both sides, if you overlap grommets as you hang them, they don't have to be connected to hang closed.

Thank-you both. Libradesigneye, that is a great idea. I'll look into that. Grommet top is not my favourite, but it may be the solution I'm looking for.

100"W wide drapes will be plenty wide. I would mount the rod halfway between the ceiling and the door trim. Make sure the length of the panels allows the drapes to hang to the floor. From your picture, it looks as if a 95"L will work.

Gabberts - A few questions, when they say 100"w they mean for the entire curtain correct? Not just one panel? Also, floor to ceiling my height is 89.5" (we have a ceramic tile floor), if I go with 95"L drapes they'll puddle on the floor. As this is a kitchen I don't particularly want to do that, so I was thinking of going with the 84" drapes. That gives me an extra 2" above the door frame. If I go with drapes with rings, would that give a bit of extra height to hang the drapes?

Curtain widths are quoted per panel.

Each panel is sold seperately, so the length and width will be a single panel. The peyton drape from PB gives you the option to purchase a double wide width, which is 100"W. Single width is 50, which would also work for you, so it depends on the look that you like best. The 50"W will pull tight across, and the 100" will still be gathered once they're in the closed position. I personally would pick the wider 100" option.

And thank you for giving your dimensions, with that information, I would purchase the 84"L. As you said, we don't want them to puddle, and with the extra length added with the rings, it will be the right length.

Good luck, and post pictures when you're done!

You would be wiser to get the longer panels and hem them. Each panel is 100".

When determining the length the curtain rod should be, is there some way to figure out how much stack back room the 100"w panels would need to clear the door frame completely? As the door accesses the rear yard I want to make sure they aren't in the way when open. The inside wall is the shorter one and is 12" from frame to corner. I have 18" on the other side which buts up against the breakfast bar of the kitchen counter, but I would like both sides to be symmetrical.

With the rings, you might need the entire 12" to clear the glass entirely when you pull them to one side. However, that being said, if you put your rod up so you have 12" on either side of the slider, that would make your bracket-to-bracket width about 91", so your drape, when closed, would be almost flat. Just make sure you get a wand to use when opening and closing the drapes, so the leading edge does not get soiled from your hands.

If you decide on having fullness when the drapes are closed (2 panels), they will never clear the glass completely when opened. Also, on a slider, the drapes open from the side the door opens, not the center.

gnworth, for custom treatments, yes, generally speaking, your window opening x 1.33 is the length your rod should be to clear the glass.
Also fyi, you cannot have a one way draw if you use grommets OR rings as you need a center bracket on that spans of window opening. If you want a one way draw, you will need to use a traversing rod or a track that will allow you to push your curtains to one side. --and they would still cover some of the glass when open.

Nancy, you have me a bit confused. My bracket-to-bracket width would be 101 1/2" (77.5" outside frame to outside frame + 2 x 12" on either side), or maybe a bit less to make allowances for finials on the end. Half of that would be 50 3/4" making the 100"w panels almost double width. I do not want to split them to one side, I prefer to have them split in the middle and stack on both sides and have the glass completely clear. Even if I wanted them to open to one side only, I wouldn't have enough stack back room to do so and have the drapes clear the glass. So my question is will a 100" wide panel on rings when pulled to one side clear the 38 3/4"w glass + frame if I have 12" for it to stack?

JMittman - sorry saw your post after I replied to Nancy Walton. So to clear the glass you are saying I would need 77.5" x 1.33 = 103" or 12 3/4" on each side. So on the side where I have 18" (which is the door opening side) it would completely clear the frame, and on the other side where I have 12" it would almost clear. As that is the non-opening side that would be fine, though the asymmetry of it will probably annoy me lol.

If that is the case, I would most likely have to forgo a finial on that side and have the rod but up against the wall. I'm still going to be left with having to subtract the space from the end of the rod to the bracket. Would it look strange to have a finial on one side and not the other? Should I forgo finials all together and just go with end caps?

I was figuring about 5" for each end of the finials and ends of the rod to the bracket. Of course, it depends on the weight of the rod you choose. You would probably need the 1 1/4" dia. rod to carry the weight of the drapes, so 5" is not unrealistic, making the total -10", thus equalling 91". As such, the 100" panels will not clear the glass, even when opening in the center.

FYI, I used to make and sell custom draperies, so I know what I'm talking about.

Kirsch has traverse rods that have the appearance of rings, can be center-draw or one-way draw, but you still have the problem of the finials, and the stack. You just don't have the room to clear the glass completely.

Nancy, I'm sure you do know what you are talking about. I didn't mean to imply other wise. It was me not understanding. So what you are saying is that I need to subtract from my total length about 5" on either side to account for finials and mounting brackets. So if my total space available is 101 1/2", I subtract 10" for finials and brackets leaving me with 91.5". If I subtract the 100"w panels from that I have an extra 8.5". My frame depth is 3.5", so the drapes would still overlap the glass/opening by 5". Do I have that right?

I would forego the finials and use end caps. You can also put a ring/grommet or 2 on the outside of the bracket.

1/3 of 77.5" is 25.8", divided by 2 equals approximately 13", minus 5" for finials, minus 3.5" for frame, leaves approx. 5", so yes, you have that right, even though we arrived at it differently.

If you use end caps and put rings on the outside of the bracket, then you will have the problem of the rings slipping off the ends of the rods unless the end caps are wide enough. That's what the finials accomplish other than decoration.

If I understand you correctly the stack back on a drape when open is equal to 1/3 of it's total width which you then divide in two for a centre split?

Ok, so what if went with end caps instead of finials and used a tie back holder on the door opening side to sweep the drape back to clear the opening when the drapes are open. Could that work or should I just keep looking for different drapes?

Hi Nancy!
I find your advice very helpful!
I am starting a new curtain proyect and to clear the glass is very important!!!

JMittman - the side with the shorter stack back, the 12" side, will but up against the wall. On the other side if I maintain also 12", it won't be butting against the wall. If I extend it to the full 18" then it would rest against the side of a kitchen cabinet.

We had verticals on before that the previous owners left and we both hated them. Granted they were 20 years old, but I was really hoping for drapes.

I would put the bracket on the left at 12" and a finial on one side - it won't look odd. Then both will stack back - use the bracket on the right nearly/as close as you can get it to the wall.

Thank-you so much everyone for your input. I think this can work.

The only issue with stack back is the left side. So since the rod will but against the wall, I could put a few rings on the outside of the bracket, thus giving me back some of the inches lost to the bracket and I won't need a finial. On the right I can extend the rod as far as necessary to clear the door opening and mount all the rings inside the bracket. That way it won't need to have a finial either and would match the left side.