Maybe you are done. A huge amount of sand needs to be worked in to change the texture of a soil that is not already fairly sandy. But you also have to watch you don't add too much, resulting in problems with drought and infertility due to leaching. And tilling has a grinding effect on soil particles. If you have already loosened this bed it could be that raking etc. is all that is left to get ready for seeds or transplants.

What are the dimensions of this garden bed?

Thanks all. I might call the compost good. Should I lightly till at the time of planting or go ahead and do it now? My thought was that a light turn and then an application of compost on top would leach into the spaces created by the turning.

Work the soil when it has not been made wet recently by heavy rains. Today where I am it is coming down fairly forcefully. An organic content of about 10% by volume is plenty - there is no need to make your beds as though filled with potting soil. And there are reasons not to.

So, you can add too much compost?

Yes, too much compost is not a good thing. 6-8% is the desired level of organic matter in a garden soil. But organic matter tends to be transitory - it continues to breakdown and decompose even after incorporation into the soil, so the amount you start out with doesn't stay that at that level endlessly.

If you are prepping a brand new bed, it is OK to go heavy on the compost or other OM initially, especially if you are planning to grow veggies. Generally, additions of 4-6 inches of compost (15-25%) is pretty standard when preparing a new planting bed with clay soil........it may put you over the desired amount initially, but by the end of a single growing season you will be right in the optimum range.

And you will need to keep replacing or replenishing that organic matter each season to maintain the desired levels and the heavy biological activity the OM stimulates

Last fall we collected soil samples from a local organic demonstration garden and sent them out for
nutrient analysis; this garden had recently experienced some soil and plant health problems. Every single
one of the sites that was tested came back with nutrient readings off the scale. In large capital letters the
report warned “DO NOT FERTILIZE THIS SOIL.” The excessive addition of nutrient-rich compost to
this landscape contributed not only to plant health problems but to nutrient loading of adjacent natural
waters.

The Bottom Line

• Ideal soils, from a fertility standpoint, are generally defined as containing no more than 5% OM
by weight or 10% by volume

• Before you add organic amendments to your garden, have your soil tested to determine its OM
content and nutrient levels

• Be conservative with organic amendments; add only what is necessary to correct deficiencies and
maintain OM at ideal levels

• Do not incorporate organic amendments into landscapes destined for permanent installations;
topdress with mulch instead

• Abnormally high levels of nutrients can have negative effects on plant and soil health

• Any nutrients not immediately utilized by microbes or plants contribute to non-point source
pollution

https://puyallup.wsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/soil-amendments-3.pdf

Very interesting all. I have been adding amendments to every hole I have ever dug, I am 5'3 and thin probably because of all this digging and amending. worked my soil for 30+ years, because when I don't plants fail to thrive. My Northwest soil is orange dense clay, with rocks from 8 inches to 3 ft. Nothing would make me happier than to be able to stick a shovel in the soil without having to put my back into it, and plant some annuals without suffocating them. I will certainly read your links and watch for more info. I know my soil has been sour and mostly clay. Don't recall any specifics of tests now, But recommendations have no doubt changed.