My tentative plans, after not finding this model in the “Riding
Mower Wrecking Yard”

1. To look at linkage for possible steering matters as
bends, and wear.

2. Fuel leaks at tank, possible a vent tube and “why” vs a
vent cap?

3. Basic Engine Conditions,
   mainly compression ck, plus see cyl walls, rod play, valves and ck adjustment.

I was told The Average Riding Mower’s Life Is 10 Years before
the wear can be Excessive and too Expensive if you are not doing the work. Naturally maintenance and hours has to be in
this logic.

Standard inspection when I was into small Engines. I have
plenty brass and Etc and a 9” South Bend Lathe if needed for bushings. “All Was Planned for Retirement”, But, I’m
almost out of Gas and ETC. LOL! I guess I worked too hard too long Having Fun
Then. I thought my “Extra Work” was OK, But Now I feel it was too much “Wear
& Tear”. I was always warned about
Hours and Loads but I felt I was in my safe range.

Who has experienced rebuilding a Riding Mower and was it
worth your time and effort??? My past experiences
has been on My Push Mower (3 since 1973),Cars/Trucks (all over 100,000) and 3
engines were Rebuilt vs the minors as timing chains/belts/, water pumps,
breaks, bearings, tune-ups and small needs (that last much longer now).

Modifying/Reinforcing A Log Splitter has been best fun and
worth the time since retirement.

Hey Loger ! The usual stuff , looks not to bad of condition as to paint . Check oil for condition and level , if normal and not to fouled , then check compression . If all within reason , clean and refill fuel tank and filter and attempt to start . Probably may need a little help (carb cleaner) sprayed within the carb . If it starts let it warm up and then dump and refresh oil and filter if applicable . Usually bearing on the wheels and spindles drives become suspect . The usual wear and tear items . The front steering spindles also are weak spots so ensure to lube frequently . Your belts and pulleys are the next area of issue . Inspect thouroughly. Transmissions are also less than ideal for hard work , however with your small yardage would not be of concern if in good shape . All the best have fun . My neithbour brought over a unit for r&r that I helped him with last week . An old Sears unit 1987 still Kicking , cheap unit but only for hauling leafs and brush from his back yard .

Yes you need a battery with full charge , charger of your needs available at Walmart or any Auto Supply Store ! Usually $50-60 Bucks .

Thanks for
the reply!

It will
start and run but not with any reasonable “Quality”. It had fair looking oil (with no signs of metal)
and 8 OZ low. I know your related oil points. Are 2 blade units
giving a better cut from the extra effort I hear? I still enjoy challenges/chores. “My Body” has
started to question some. Below is my post
today to my local Co-Workers

I tried a
Harbor Freight Jump Star to crank the Riding Mower Project this morning. My plan was to see if the Jump Start would
crank the mower for a compression test and “Stop”! It cranked the mower fine but the 50 PSI vs
at least 100 PSI told me the mower had problems. I wanted
to see the possible problems which led to 3+ hrs of inspecting.

Most notable
was a valve spring not seated on a valve properly, Dirty valve seats and oily
dirty head. I felt if I could seat the spring and run
some chemical I should see some improvements.
I finally I had to give up due to not finding my Valve Spring Compressor. Plus, known modified methods were not
working.

Knowing I have
a compressor, I took one last look with brighter light and I saw the pan with
the compressor and spare Small Engine Parts.
Tomorrow or another day it will be interesting what correcting this spring
will do for the compression. The very
Bottom Line is this mower needs too much work after inspecting it. Know what you are getting “Even If It Is New. I used the 10.00 off on the Jump Start to
purchase a 2 Yr Extended Warranty.

Take Care
And Know And Keep Some Skills!!!

The oil is related to the lack of compression and due to the valve spring issue . How did the valve and seat look , worn or cut ?

1. How
   little compression can an engine run with?

2. I
   cannot visualize the engine running with the valve spring off. Or, when and how
   did it come off.

3. Both
   seats looked a mess w/o a smooth sealing surface I expected to see vs carbon.

4. Today
   is my Day Off, Except I just walked the 2 Grand Kids to the park and back.

5. I
   was hoping to spot my helper if he was not already out helping on yards as mine
   needs.

6. I’ll
   try 2 attachments to show my bad experiences that are usually challenging.

   I possibly could have seen a flame and saved some time if I had started at night.

   My question related to one or two blades was due to a 11HP 30" Cut Rider that a friend purchased at an Estate Sale that start/runs as smooth as can be expected. He rode it blocks (2-3) as a trial and I followed him 4-5 blocks home with flashers. He Spit Shined It, used it 2-3 times and it has been parked 2-3 years. We started it days ago to compare engines and steering linkages He is saving it for his son's acre vs his half acre that he walks ("many" years older than I am). I had a good winter with his 7 Huge Oaks supplying much of my wood.

   
   
   
   

Yeah valve spring collapsed , where is the spring retainer seems to be missing in the photo ! Valves actually look OK .

Being Honest! I feel I had to do that (w/o notice) or
influence when I pressed the valve forward to see surfaces. As Mentioned, it ran and I doubt it w/h w/o
the spring. The retainer and spring were
in good conditions.

The instant leak was “Blow By” IMO
(since he Eng was level). The amount of oil at that level was new to me (vs a
vapor, slinger, port or etc to guides).
Too Much Is New To Me! I cleaned
all surfaces, degreased and sealed with Black RTV. This Monster is ready to go home or Etc. I feel he will sell parts and scrap the
mower.

My 2 Grinds like the :30 minutes walks
"Total", to and from the Park and Walking Trail. The added
Playing Time varies on the weather (5 wk days). Their Dad cutting
the back was to balance my time. He had one cutting in last season,
LOL. We are 2 blocks from A Wooded Park with a Live Creek. We have much of the habitat reaching our
yards. Keeping the grass cut low help
the safety issue.

Actually Loger for your small yard cutting with this unit would likely take you more time trying to maneuver around obstacles . My experience they are fine for long open spaces and carrying debis in a small trailer . My neibours is so noisey he requires ear muffs lol .

That is my opinion also! I wanted to try a Small Rider as a trial due
to my feet. On my feet it’s almost a
programmed motion. Such as, backing from
knowing w/o looking or turn and pull longer distances. “All The Work On The Mower Was Not Planned On
My Part”. Part of it was my nature to
examine. LOL!!!

One of my mowers will come out this week and replace my :30
minute walk if needed (usually it’s Plus). Actually my yard is so small that my
MTD Self Propel works me pulling it out of “Dead Ends”. My smaller Murray with
the large back wheels if the friendly cut…

With our recent storms and good firewood information, I
would put the yard off. To haul a load
of Oak, Pecan or Ash to refill the last of my firewood supply (to beat the heat
that is increasing).

Send some of that Texas heat up North here , still in the high 40,s to low 50,s lol.

It appears I posted this final
results with the wrong thread:

Follow-up with the valve spring back
on:

1. It runs but not any better. You can hear the leaking
   valves sputter.
2. I’ll have to go back and replace the valve cover
   gasket. It leaks a lot compared to before. Will Black RTV do vs buying or
   making a gasket? Did adding the 8 OZ of oil add to this new leak?
3. I want the “Monster” to go back as it came or better,
   since he gave me a trial (vs him knowing).
4. My two mowers are wondering what’s the deal on the :30
   minute cuts. My Feet and I’ll adjust "Some Exercise to Grass".

Take Care And keep Some Skills!!!