It is sitting in the water - that is the big problem. Please get it out of that saucer immediately. Worse think you can do for your plants is to have them sitting in the water.

Temps are not problem, not fertilizing is no problem.

These plants can be in 45-50F temps but not wet; they don't need to be fertilized ever.

I would recommend to take it out of the existing soil. Get all of it off the roots, and I mean all. See the condition of the roots, hopefully they are not rotted off. Pls. post a photo of the roots.

Are any stems soft, anywhere? They could be rotting if yes. Water may be running thru, but if it hardened around roots, they don't get any moisture - that would mean the plant is thirsty (that would be better than overwatered/rotting). Plant will recover from dehydration easier than from overwatering.

Thanks! The saucer you see is well below the pot itself which does NOT sit in water. It'll take some doing to repot it since I'll need to buy soil, then deal with it. I don't want to pull it out until I'm prepared and will post again when the roots are exposed for a photo.

I think a little differently about fertilizer. It provides micronutrients, something we get from fresh fruits, vegetables, nuts, vitamin/mineral supplements. Plants get them from fertilizer and take them up in the roots as needed. Deprivation slows a plant's self-maintenance and reduces the ability to fight problems. I guess that's a side-note however. You are noticing a water problem with the puckering, and as previously noted this could be the rotting of roots from soggy conditions and therefore no way to get that water to the leaves. It could also be concrete-hard soil that doesn't get completely soaked in watering. Plants in a soil that compacts, and left in that soil for years, can have avenues where the water runs through quickly but the majority of the soil stays dry.

If this latter condition is the case, you may have to really chisel away to free the roots, and will lose some in the process. Also, if it's just really too hard, you could put it back in the pot and submerse the root ball for an hour to soften things up.

ez

You say that water run right through the pot when you water. The root ball may be so dry that it needs a "soak" in order the become wet. Lift the plant before and after you water, this can give you a idea of how much water was taken in by the soil.

If it was mine I would prune it back about 50% and repot in a fast draining succulent soil mix and start a bunch of pups.

I'm heading out for what I need...thanks again all.

OK, so it's replanted in the same pot with new succulent soil mix. As you can see, the roots are thin and from what I can tell healthy, but I'm no exp

BTW, I said I think it was under watered because the root ball was tight and dry inside.

As the saying goes: Dying of thirst in sea of plenty...Hydrophobic peat (or fine sand) will compact, harden, and do not let any water soak thru. So when plant is watered and water drains out, it is misleading - thinking there is plenty getting to roots. But it just slides over hardened substrate without penetrating it, and drains out.

I hope you got all old soil off the roots. Any dead/dry and otherwise damaged roots should be clipped off. Plant should be potted into better mix; it may need some securing until roots establish themselves.

I wonder what you used for new potting mix?

It looks like there are 2 separate plants? Sometimes, it is better to keep each potted separately, that way it will grow without any obstructions.

I would also do some generous pruning as Steven suggested.

So THAT's how the saying goes...

We used Espoma Brand cactus and succulents mix. We shook and carved out I'd say 75/85 of the old soil. While I guess you're correct that it may be two plants, it's been happy for years since planting them that way and we didn't know better during repotting today, so they're still together. Either way, it looks good and there's ample room. BTW, the pruning you refer to, do you mean the roots or the stems and leaves? We did remove some of the longest roots. Again, the upper plant looks good to us, has growth overall.

Pruning the plant - I would prune off all etiolated growth. Hopefully you can keep it in more light than before, otherwise it will grow same. The pair of leaves should be closer together. And some branches are just 'gangly' - they are naked without leaves, and in low light, they will stay thin. These jades look best with thick trunk, at least IMO :)

I am not familiar with that soil, but ppl using C&S soil mix it with 50 or 60% of perlite or pumice to get good drainage.

Good that you replaced the potting mix.

However, it is clearly lacking light. The droop of the leaves and the growth habit indicates low lighting.

Josh

I'm a photographer, professionally, been on the other side of advice. Glad I came here for some. The plant's now centered in the brightest window we've got. When the weather turns we'll put it on the screened porch. Doing the best we can with what we've got to work with. Thanks very much.

Ken
It will take a while for plant to recover; hope the window is brighter than whatever location it was before. In the meantime, pls. resist 'temptation' to water often - it may kill the plant. I would have been good if you added lots of perlite to your bagged soil, as these are very often not draining as well as advertised. It may help to use a bamboo skewer or chopstick to check if watering is needed: stick deep (about 3/4) into pot. When taken out (few minutes is enough) ad if it feels damp/cold and may have some particles sticking to it, pls. do not water. If it feels dry and is clean, time to water. (Touching the wooden skewer to top of your hand or cheek is very good way to tell).

Pruning the plant will be a great improvement to it's look - while leaves will (mostly) plump up with better growing conditions, the long stems will not look much better. They need to be pruned so plant doesn't look like bunch of sticks with some leaves at the end of them.

I'll be careful. As you know, we become attached, feel actual affection for these things...

....and, with the bettered conditions, new, more vigorous growth could be clustered at the ends of already thin branches which will enevitably droop them even more than now. You may end up having to prune back to reduce the drooping growths later on. Best remedied sooner by cutting back tighter in the first place. They are resilient plants that can back bud from stumps and seemingly lifeless trunks/branches....it will thank you in the long run!