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Fertilizing after mulching possible?

9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago

I have some granular fertilizer I wanted to use around some of my small trees that have been in the ground a full season. This spring I removed the sod and laid some cedar and hardwood mulch around the trees. I forget to apply the fert and now the mulch is down. Can I apply directly on the mulch and just water it in? I was surprised to find maple roots out into the new area where I removed sod after only one season. Anyways, this is just a 10-0-10 fert for a kick start on leafing out and growth . Our sandy soil leaches nitrogen readily and is generally low in potash as a rule so it won't hurt anything. Just wondering what the best method is for applying on mulched beds. I have several of these done and I might want to do an application on these later this spring.

Comments (4)

  • 9 years ago

    You can apply right over the mulch, or apply on top of the mulch and gently stir it in with a rake or hoe.

    User thanked brandon7 TN_zone7
  • 9 years ago

    The granular fertilizer should slowly dissolve. As it does, it will sink into the soil. The mulch just slows down the process a little...but that may be a good thing.

    User thanked edlincoln
  • 9 years ago

    in your zone.. i wouldnt put it on too early ... for fear of increasing frost/freeze issues ....


    besides.. im pretty sure they leaf out on stored energy.. so there is not real reason to apply too early ...


    did you mean 10 cubed??? .. 10-10-10 .. typo perhaps ...


    how much you thinking per tree ....


    btw.. lawn looks weed free .. if it is fertd.. consider that you might be giving the tree a double whammy ... and most trees simply dont need it ...


    they arent children.. dont try to love them to death ...


    ken

    User thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
  • 9 years ago

    I've forever applied some form of mild soluble as soon as the ground warms up. Small/new lilacs, peonies and other perennials mostly. Not so much with trees. With no scientific proof, it just seems to make things come out of the winter a bit more robust. And they seem to like it fairly early when the frost goes out, so I supposed it was because the roots suck it up soon after dormancy. Just sometimes you do what seems to always work.

    no, the fert was packaged as 10-0-10. First time I saw this mix. Advertised as 'Safe for the environment '. haha, if you need it you need it. But all my soil tests over the years have shown Phos levels that's 3 times what's needed to grow a crop so I thought this would be good as I wouldn't be adding something I really don't need.

    The label directions show a certain amount per inch of diameter of tree but I do it a bit more conservatively. I've learned the over fert lessons years ago.

    My weed free lawn is mostly crab grass and no I don' fert the lawn. It can die or go dormant for all I care. Just too much of it and too sandy to water all summer. Some of our neighbors do that and then spend the rest of their time mowing grass 3 times a week. There in lies a big part of why I decided on mulching these trees. I got tired of the big green area around them from watering, while the rest of the lawn turns brown during the hot summertime. Not to mention the other benefits of mulching.

    I ended up raising 7 trees, up in their holes, and mulching 2 others, then there's two more spruce coming in a couple of weeks which are all fairly small trees. I decided not to do the 4 in the front yard but that could change. :-) Anyways, I just thought if I could coax a bit more robust growth out of the gate this spring, I'd do it.

    Another ingredient we get a positive response from is Magnesium and Sulphur. I thought maybe a light coat of 10-0-10, then water it in with some Epsom salts, then just water for the rest of the season. My first year Red maples did great last year with a couple of applications of Miracle grow, a few weeks apart, then just water from end of June on.