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beachbud

New construction -- Pay for under-cabinet lighting or DIY?

9 years ago

From the builder, it would cost $2400 which I think is expensive. Is this something I can do on my own afterwards to save money? Is there any way I can arrange my outlets to help with this? I think the builder did mention that if we did this, they would give us longer cabinet edges (on the bottom) to help hide away the lighting.

What good options are there for DIY after construction?

Comments (17)

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Electricians curse over installing under cabinet lighting because it is such a pain to do properly and it look neat and good. I can't imagine trying it if someone has no idea what they are doing. We have seen some pretty bad installs.

    If the price includes the lights, the transformer, the electrical labor, light rails on the cabinets and any markup then I don't think the price is horrible.

  • 9 years ago

    prices can be all over depending on the lighting style. make sure you know what kind of lights you are getting for that price.

  • 9 years ago

    The price does look a bit high to me. But who knows, I am not the contractor do not know the task, so it's hard to judge. The so called "1 inch little light" is a fluorescent strip that comes in several lengths (24, 36, 48), the thickness of the fixture is 1", and they are not that expensive to buy. You may want either the whole strip to light up at once, or separate individual pieces to light up one at a time or all of them together. So wiring knowledge is kind of required. I would definitely have a drop at the front to conceal the fluorescent strip.

  • 9 years ago

    DIY if you're capable.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    actually, thats exactly what i chose, daniel, and saved so much money. mine are hardwired, switch individually, and they are all on a single switch, so i can leave just one or two on when we are away.

  • 9 years ago

    The trick is that the nicest ones are hard-wired, using a transformer, rather than plugging into one of your outlets. So it's going to be a lot easier to plan for in advance -- plus, they might run hidden wiring between two cabinets, plan an inconspicuous spot to mount the transformer(s), etc., or if you use tape, you might not even need a light rail, depending on the style of your cabinets. Best to build the plan into your design rather than trying to retrofit something decent.

  • 9 years ago

    I only needed it in the area between my sink and stove because that is my major prep area. I bought DIY for $75 and just plugged it in for a year - worked, but not the best look with the cord running down to the plug. Then I had an electrician wire it to a switch at a cost of about $300.

    My DIY before:

    https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~48485162

    After - the very end where it runs into the wall is not in the pic:

    https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~81033766

    I still need to notch between cabinets to hide that bit of cord. I can't see it normally and keep forgetting to do it.

  • 9 years ago

    IMO it is best to have an electrician hard wire it. Maybe a different electrician who doesn't want so much money?

  • 9 years ago

    So can hiring an electrician after construction do as clean of an install as if I did it during construction? Is there anything the electrician wouldn't be able to do like hide the transformer, etc?

  • 9 years ago

    Answer is probably not. You would need him to interface with your current contractor and do his portion of work/wiring while stuff is still open I think.

  • 9 years ago

    @Angel 18432 I can do that. What about transformers and all that?

  • 9 years ago

    If you do wait, don't put your backsplash in yet - or talk to your own electrician about how he would do it and what he needs access to. If he needs to put a switch in, you don' want him to mess with your new backsplash.

    I initially asked for an outlet under my cabinet so I could hide the plug, but he wired it to a switch instead. I was glad because the switch on the cord was cheap and I could see it breaking. There are outlets that have switches on them and that could be put under a cabinet. The cord on mine needed to be shortened too - no big deal for an electrician and an experienced DIY person, but I don't like working with electricity.

  • 9 years ago

    Whether you have the electrician do it now, or you do it later, I suggest you purchase the under cabinet lights that you are going to use, so the wiring can be done correctly.

    I'm not really a HD fan, but they happen to have several good options for this type of application.

    I really like the motion sensor on this one:

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-24-in-LED-Light-Temperature-Adjustable-Motion-Sensing-Bar-Light-33847/206855660

  • 9 years ago

    Here is another one with similar features, but add'l options in color and type of wiring:

    https://www.houzz.com/products/smart-lighting-24-led-motion-under-cabinet-light-white-prvw-vr~37300405

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My DIY install without wires showing: Install outlets above the cabinets, but below crown top so they aren't seen. Run power cable through cabinets in front corner, still can't see them. Put all outlets on remote switch so you can turn them on individually or together. You can buy any type of bar configuration with this setup.

  • PRO
    9 years ago
    If the framing is still open, ask the builder to put in some Romex from the intended switch location to a known area behind the cabinets. That way the cable is already there and it's a lot cheaper to install cabinet lighting st a later date without having to fish wires and make several drywall patches.