Definitely take them out of the pots.

If you can easily take them out, do that. If not, I suggest that you try to rip the bottom out of the peat pots. You are right, the roots have a heck of a time growing through the thick peat and it stunts the plants.

Linda

Based on all the past discussions here about the problems with them I think you'll regret it if you don't remove them. Any root damage done in the process will heal itself.

Dave

The bottom line is, no, if you bury the peat pot in the ground, you have no assurance that it will degrade and allow the roots to penetrate. Yeah, that's what they're SUPPOSED to do but, in fact, this forum is filled with people pulling out their hair because, at the end of a lousy season, they pull their plants and find the peat pot still there, and roots desperately tangled up inside.

Peat pots are a cleverish idea that just doesn't quite pass the credibility test.

I also use hundreds of peat pots every year to give pole beans a head start. I cut the bottoms diagonally but it may not be necessary as the bean roots do penetrate well. As Zeedman stated, it is important to tear off the excess of the upper rim so that the pot is buried completely. Richard

I save myself the trouble and use newspaper pots for curcubits which easily grow through. Of course I do have to make the newspaper pots....

Linda

Peat pots are over rated. Take them out. They only decompose in warmer soil in which case there's no need to start the beans or cucerbits indoors. In areas where you have to start those things indoors the soil isn't warm enough to decompose the peat pots quick enough. I tried these pots before and the next spring I was still roto tilling peat pots from 10 months before (in central WI)

"I save myself the trouble and use newspaper pots for curcubits which
easily grow through. Of course I do have to make the newspaper pots...."

I like the idea of paper pots... just don't have time to make hundreds of them. It would also take some getting used to, in terms of their different responses to tray size, mold/algae formation, and water retention... but as with peat (or any other permeable pot) probably nothing that couldn't be overcome by adjustments in technique.

The peat pots that I use may not fully decompose by the end of summer either - but provided that the roots penetrate without becoming bound, that is not an issue. They do decompose within a year, though.

The main advantage of peat pots vs. impermeable containers is to avoid root damage during transplant, which they do. When I grow beans or cucurbits in peat pots using the method described in my earlier post, the roots that penetrate are not air pruned, and those extra roots help the plants to establish quickly with little to no transplant shock. It is also nice to have a completely filled row (especially for beans) vice filling in dead zones when direct seeded. I've had nothing but healthy plants, and some outstanding yields.

All that being said... I only use peat pots because direct sowing in my climate is unpredictable, and for some of my limas & yardlongs (where I'm pushing the envelope) I don't have a long enough season for a second try. If I lived in a longer, warmer climate, there would be few benefits to using peat pots. The only exceptions to this would be when using seed that is either in very small quantity (such as I often receive in trade), or when attempting to revive very old seed, where every seed counts & strict control of conditions is required.

In a couple weeks, when I've started some of my beans & cucurbits, I'll come back to this thread periodically to post photos.

zeedman, I'm in a warm area, and direct seeding works just fine for must anything I need to grow, but out of curiosity... have you tried the 'cow pots'? I've heard similar problems as with peat, but perhaps, as you experience, technique makes the difference with those also?

I swore off the peat pots long ago after bad experiences with them when I lived up north.

If I lived in a warm area (as I did for many years in California), I would direct seed just about everything except the nightshades (which I start in plastic pots). The only time I would use peat pots is for the times mentioned above, where seed was either too scarce to take chances, or where poor germination was expected, based upon previous attempts. As a collector, I often deal with the second scenario; where I am attempting to resuscitate old seed, and with sometimes 10% germination or less, I want EVERY plant which comes up to make it into the ground, properly spaced. I could not accomplish this if direct seeded.

No, I haven't tried the cow pots, and probably won't except as an experiment... they are pretty pricey. I would expect that their uses - and weaknesses - would be similar. I buy the peat pots in bulk every 5 years or so, which really brings the price down.

The biggest problems I've observed with peat pots are (1) drying out too fast, which prevents root penetration; (2) developing mold; and (3) problems with transplants getting established.

(1) is the most common difficulty, and is IMO the reason so many give up on peat pots. That issue can be resolved by using some type of porous, water-holding material under the pots as a reservoir. The use of strips - as opposed to round pots - is also helpful. The strips fit tightly together, and help to conserve moisture below the soil line.

(2) is caused by too much water, poor air circulation, and/or excessive growing time. Peat pots (and, I suspect, any pot formed from permeable organic material) will tend to develop mold if kept moist for too long. Those clear plastic "greenhouse covers" will really exacerbate this... and IMO, should never be used for ANY seedlings. The bottom sand which solves (1) also helps to reduce (2), to the extent that the sand covers the pot's outer surface. Good air circulation is important as well. Mold would probably still develop eventually, which is the reason that peat pots are only appropriate for fast-growing transplants.

(3) as mentioned above, can be caused by the tendency of the peat pots to "wick" soil moisture away from the root zone, and from the surrounding soil. If any portion of the pot is exposed to the air, this wicking can occur very quickly, and prevent the transplant from rooting. I say that from experience; when I first began using peat pots, I observed the soil sometimes pulling away from the pot! Tearing off exposed portions of the pot, and covering the remainder completely, will prevent this. In dry areas, or sandy soils, it may be necessary to place a layer of mulch around the transplant, to help conserve moisture while the plant roots into the surrounding soil.

Peat pots have a bad reputation, and I understand that to a point; but like any tool, they can be helpful if used properly, and for the right application.

With so many issues, and you have itemized most of them well, why use them? So many less problematic and less expensive options are available. Especially so with bulk purchase pricing.

The whole marketing focus of them was their natural decomposition ability. When they fail to do as marketed what possible advantage do they have? None. They are a prime example of false marketing claims suckering the uninformed buyer into spending money on what is actually a poor quality product.

Dave

"With so many issues, and you have itemized most of them well, why use
them? So many less problematic and less expensive options are
available. Especially so with bulk purchase pricing."

Dave, I use them because they work well for me, and because I have developed techniques which overcome most of their shortcomings. Any hype about decomposition (which I don't remember seeing) had nothing to do with that decision; it was the ability to transplant seedlings without damaging their root systems. It was also (a point I forgot to mention above) the fact that they are basically sterile, as are the soil less mix & filtered water that I use with them for seed starting.

If you would list the many options you mention which might accomplish the same tasks, I am open to suggestion. I'm guessing that you have little need for them in your climate.

I pulled an intact peat pot out of 2 year old compost, and I have pulled end of season plants out of the ground still confined to their peat pot. How exactly do you overcome the shortcoming of them not breaking down? Trying to pull them off causes far more root disturbance than pulling a wet rootball out of a plastic pot, which does very little. This goes for potting up too. I learned my first year gardening that they are nothing but trouble.

"If you would list the many options you mention which might accomplish the same tasks, I am open to suggestion."

You can buy 100 sheets of plastic cell packs with 36 cells each sheet for less than $50. That's enough for 3600 plants. Or you can get sheets of 48 or 72 cells for even more plants for about the same price from most any of the greenhouse grower supply houses. 12 and 18 pot fiber pot strips are 2x that price for 5x less pots.

You can buy 100 plastic drink cups at any dollar store for less than $2. Foam coffee cups are even cheaper. Of course you have to poke drain holes in them but that is no big deal.

And they are all reuseable unlike peat pots or peat pellets.

" the ability to transplant seedlings without damaging their root systems"

And that is the point - they do damage root systems. They slow their development, retard both water and nutrient access once planted, and make it difficult for the roots to permeate (regardless of climate) thus stunting the plants.

Dave