If it was still green beneath the bark, chances are it was still alive. Crape are LATE to leaf out in general and it depends on how your weather has been. If it's been cool, it might be delayed compared to normal. I don't know about Zone 5, but yes, there are Crepes that will survive Zone 6 without significant die back (being that it was was a fairly mild winter, chances are yours didm't experience anything much colder than a 6 anyway). Sometimes leafing out it depends on the specific POSITION of the plant within your garden (if the site is shadier, it may take a bit longer than if it were in full sun). Next year wait until June before you decide what is living and what is dead.

Agree that pruning was premature.

I did the same thing when new to Crape Myrtles- I bet I cut them to the ground the first three years because I was unaware of how late they can be to bud out.

Someone on the New England forum a number of years ago commented that hers releafed in June when the buds were killed.

but as you said.. you know you are pushing the envelop in z5 ... one bad winter might do them in..

its all about the little micro climate you have in your garden ... and i wish you luck

ken

The zonal numbers flawed they may be, are not meaningless and Crepe Myrtles are one of those "indicator plants". If you see mature ones in an area, it pretty much helps in figuring out what eastern zone you are probably located in. The cold hardier hybrids should have no problem in Zone 6b; others to Zone 7 (that's with minimal dieback). If you don't mind the dieback, you can probably push it a zone. For those looking to push microclimates (next to their houses, for example), just keep in mind, many of these wanna be TREES and you may end up do A LOT of seasonal pruning!

The Crape Myrtles in my zone 7 started to leaf out at the beginning of April. They are all leafed out now. I didn't realize there were some places that till had them without leaves in May!

Tibean, not all Zone 7's are created equal! I am Zone 7, but my coastal, Atlantic location means that warm temps come later in the Spring, and the Winter chill persists. Not quite like living in Argentina, but almost, LOL!

On the converse side, my first frost date is quite late in the year. I have had my Crepes in full flower through October into November. Most of my crepes are currently in leaf but still waiting for one that I cut back due to its size.

They are perennials in your zone........ plant a conifer or rhododendron that can grow in the frozen tundra i which you live. Also, they transplant rather easily.

Crape are late leaf out, not dead

They may also have had their buds frozen in the cold March of this year. Lots of variables. So they are trying to reform buds. If that is the case, they'll be even later than normal and new growth will be dwarfed.

No new growth from the old buds yet. It's been over 80 degrees for several weeks here in Indiana. They sprouted new growth from the ground in late April, so I guess they're destined to die back. The new growth looks to be close to blooming as well. Thanks for the help, everyone.

Supposedly "extra" hardy CMs of mine routinely die back mostly to the ground here in z6. But I do notice that just slightly warmer (say 60 miles to the east but still z6), they fare better, so they are sensitive. Z5? Yeah, I think that's BS -- at least that anything above ground would survive a typical winter.

The 3 I have which died back have all sprouted pretty well again.

This past Winter was much warmer than normal in NJ (especially February with many days in the 50'/60's). I have several Crapes (Dynamites, Catawba, Zuni, Black Diamond, Sioux, Tuscarora, and Hopi). The only one that died to the ground (first year this ever occurred btw) was the Hopi (one of my favorites). I couldn't figure it out: It was such a mild Winter. Then, I thought that curiously enough, the one that suffered the most was the one in the warmest, sunniest Winter site (southern exposure, full sun, all day, near the house). A deep, narrow crack developed on the south side of the tree, curiously those in COLDER positions in the yard were fine. It has since re sprouted from the roots. A nurseryman suggested that I spray the trunk with an anti-dessicant before the Winter begins. At first I was confused and asked why an anti-dessciant would be useful on a deciduous plant. Interestingly, he suggested that plants can lose water through their bark and branches (no only their leaves), so next late Autumn I am spraying the one in the "hot" winter site with an anti-descicant.

Subtropix, that is very interesting about your Hopi location/die back. Mine are on a southern slope in full sun. How large were your crapes when planted? Do you purchase online or locally? I have been admiring the black diamonds, but I want a tree, not a perennial shrub.

Steele, it was about two feet tall when planted several years ago that Hopi and had grown to about 12 feet with a trunk of several inches in diameter (and I did some aggressive Spring pruning on an annual basis as that variety actually has a rather sizable potential!). Never any dieback in MUCH colder winters. But last Winter was very sunny, and mild in February and that one crape is in the most sun drenched area near the house (so also reflected sun and heat); and was the only Crape that suffered damage. I have read that some people actually paint the trunks of trees white to reflect sunlight and damage to trunk bark. Most of my Crapes are the hardier hybrids (named after North American native tribes..., Zuni, Catawba, Hopi, Sioux, Tuscarora, etc.). Are the Black Diamonds ultimately shorter (as you say you want a tree, not a shrub)? I think Dynamites are less hardy in comparison, but again (they were fine). I purchase all mine locally (from big box stores); usually they are readily available from June though August. Crapes are definitely an addiction, btw, one is never enough. Good luck with yours!

I live at the northernmost end of zone 6b...very literally on the edge. Just a few blocks up the road from me is a 8ft red crape myrtle (exact cultivar unknown). The owner says it's always been there since he moved in and he doesn't do any pruning to it. Carl whitcomb mentions no pruning as a strategy for colder climates.