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Staining heart pine 1850 Victorian?

9 years ago

Besides painting the trim white (which I know people on here hate) is there a way to reduce the orange and monochromatic look?

I would be ok with darker stain, lighter stain, or just brownish without the orange trim.

There is NO shellac or varnish on the trim now. Just satin polyacrylic from what I can tell.

ive heard that pine is hard to stain as it gets splotchy.

So, is it possible? And is the advice for floors different from the trim? I do notice that in lots of Victorian houses, the floor is lighter

ps the walls are Bennington gray but if there are other light and airy colors you suggest...just not medium to dark colors and I don't really like the greenish blues you see sometimes online with this kind of trim. Honestly if the trim was darker I'd go with soft white walls

Comments (16)

  • 9 years ago

    Not an answer to your question, just want to say I think the woodwork is beautiful as is. I'd work with it, not against it. Plus someone must have taken a lot of time to restore.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You did read that I am NOT trying to paint the wood, right?

  • 9 years ago

    Try the home decorating forum and ask for wall color suggestions that might help tone down the orange. Floors usually are different--usually a different species of wood. I'd try to tone down the monochromatic look with some good rugs if the floors don't need refinishing. (If they do, I'd try to go lighter)


    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/decor

    User thanked Fori
  • 9 years ago

    I agree trying with wall paint first. Our original (1928) craftsman-toned wood was bleached blonde in the 60's, and we are slowly restoring it - but it takes stripping off the poly, sanding down to wood, prepping the wood, staining, and then poly again. I begged at S/W if there was any new product that might save some of those steps, but they all agreed it's the way to go.

    As we wait for that, we found a shade that works remarkably in our dining room, just by luck. On contrast, our living room, while I like the color (it's a cool 'stone' shade) it does absolutely nothing to work with the woodwork. It's really remarkable what paint and furnishings do.

    User thanked kats737
  • 9 years ago

    Any pics?

  • 9 years ago

    Maybe you could go over them with a ruby shellac. It's easy to get off if it looks wrong...might just go more orange though. :)

  • 9 years ago

    Here's some suggestions for colors work with the woodwork.




  • 9 years ago

    I like the paint choices given and agree that painting is the easiest way to go. However if you decide to stain I have always used a pre stain with pine to avoid the "splotchy". You may want to check in the woodworking forum if this would be true with heart pine, but it certainly works for any wood that stains splotchy. You apply, wait 5 minutes, then stain. Also, maybe try a clear shellac first and tone done the Ambering in a test spot. Maybe that will be enough to go light and natural once you have stripped the poly. You are talking a lot of work redoing all that.


    Good luck.


    P.S. I am partial to the dark blue and greens cpartist posted. I would try a sample pot of a few first before spending weeks sanding.

    User thanked kai615
  • 9 years ago

    For the walls, a white with a yellow undertone might work. Or a cream color. Or a light yellow, like Ben Moore Philadelphia Cream, HC-30. It's in BM's historic collection.

  • 9 years ago

    How about dark tung oil applied to the wood after it's properly stripped/sanded?

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    How about a nice historically accurate, easy to DIY, and fabulous looking shellac?

  • 9 years ago

    Can you shellac darker? I've only seen orangy shellac which is what we are trying to move away from.

  • 9 years ago

    yes...it might have even been mentioned above. Thing is, you need to TEST it inside a closet door or somewhere first.

  • 9 years ago

    Yes I have some spare damaged doors in my basement to use for testing. Thank you for the suggestion

  • 9 years ago

    Ive been having good luck with Zar stain - its not as heavy and opaque as GF gel stain = but it goes on pretty evenly over previously finished wood, and that's what youll have even if you use a paint stripper on it - someof it will remain embedded in the pores of the wood. with other finishes. Definitely experiment before commiting to anything!

    Agree that a wall color change may be quickest, best-est solution - needs to be something strong enough to stand up to the intensity of the wood. As above poster stated, to de-orange the wood, you need colors around it that don't bring out the oranginess.

    It looks like a pretty decent refinish job, at least what I can see from here - Im lusting after that beautiful grain!

    User thanked Debbie Downer