All this things must be fixed to your satisfaction. Very sloppy work.

What price level remodel is this?

Did you pay for drywall work for the ceiling?

Stick on tabs in woodgrain or white color will color all of those holes. No biggie, other than the interior should be a matching color to the exterior on glass cabinets.

Better make sure where the hanging rail is located. Screws need to go through it, not all over everywhere.

They at least used cabinet installation screws and not drywall screws.

I want to know what brand cabinets, and why you chose them. I have a suspicion on that front.

The ceiling is still being taped, I should have mentioned that. We feel the work is sloppy too. The guys hanging the cabinets wanted $5,200 but gave us a "deal" at $4,200. They opened up a wall about 18 inches. Hung cabinets in a small kitchen and framed a window.

Sophie: they are Schrock cabinets

5K for Schlock cabinets??? Or 5K for removing a wall, repairing drywall, moving electric, and hanging cabinets. Something isn't right here.

5k for slight Sheetrock repair. Removing two doors and framing the old opening. Opening up one door way about 18 inches. Hanging cabinets and cutting a hole in the roof for the exhaust.

Oh sorry, it was 11k for the cabinets.

Way way low for that labor. Hope they did more than install goop around that roof penetration, or you are going to have a nasty surprise next rain. Not permitted or inspected either, I'm assuming? This kinda comes under the you got what you paid for in the labor department. Sloppy D list work, yes, but you didn't hire A listers. I'd expect at least double that price, at a minimum, for someone licensed, insured, and competent, to cut actual holes in your home's weathertight envelope. Just the cabinet installation alone, from a skilled specialist, should be in the 3-4K range.

Apl, interior doors or exterior?

As Sophie said you can get plugs for the screw holes.

Did they pull permits for the work? I hope you didn't. Make sure your town's building inspectors come out for any roofing, plumbing/electrical issues. The knobs and such they will not be concerned about. But first, did you get a really poweful hood that needs MUA? If so and that was not done, the inspectors will note that.

Apl, I just read your original thread on the layout. I am sure you are under a lot of stress with all of this. That is germane to the renovation process and lots of people here can identify. Keep us posted.

The things I can see as being sloppy is that ceiling finish work, the gap in the corner miter, and not covering up the screws in the glass cabinets. They may have left the ceiling like that because making it look better than that "is a painters job".

The knobs look fine to me so unless you told them specifically where they should go and they didn't do that I wouldn't fault them for the placement.

If the reno has been a nightmare and stressful, at this point it may be better to leave bad/mediocre reviews and just finish it up yourself. No sense putting a bunch of energy into fighting a contractor into fixing what you can fix yourself in a Saturday.

The pictures are crooked themselves so its hard to tell

Seriously, a kitchen renovation where they don't ask where do you want the knobs?? That does not sound right. Some want them on the left or the right, middle or bottom, pulls on the stiles or in the middle, holy cow, that is absolutely up to the owner. And this is one of those things, imho, they need to ask before installing. That's just wrong.

"The knobs look fine to me so unless you told them specifically where they should go and they didn't do that I wouldn't fault them for the placement."

I think the OP is complaining about the unevenness rather than the location. I think it's reasonable to expect that the knobs will be in the same position on each door/drawer without having to mention it. That said, I chose to install my own pulls and knobs because opinions frequently differ as to what is "good enough" and you only get one shot at it.

They were interior doors. We don't have a frame of reference for job size / cost but it took two men less than 20 hours. They came on nights and weekends. They were provided buy the kitchen company we used for the cabinets and countertop. The small 12" countertop to the right of our range is off 1/8 inch as well. But the countertop installers didn't let us wait to ask the cabinet guys to level it.

*by. Sorry!

Of course the first picture drywall is unacceptable. The knobs being off is why you always hot melt a scrap reversible hole drilling jig together for doors. No measuring, no missing. Easy enough to fix.

Sophie's right about hitting the cabinet support rail with the screws. If they haven't it's a do-over.

Compared to some of the stuff we see here, this isn't all that. Be reasonable and this should all work out.

They didn't use a hanging rail. They opened up he wall and put in horizontal support to nail the cabinet to as well as the studs.

The cabinet BOXES are what have the integral hanging rail. The rest of the cabinet back is not load bearing.