I agree with Rick. Scoop out /everything/ that is discolored or soft. Use a spoon and pretend you are scraping out a pumpkin to make a jack-o-lantern until you are all the way down to clean white tissue. If you can get that far, let it dry at least a day and if there is still connective tissue with the roots, you can try sealing all of the cut out areas with glue. I'd then leave it out unpotted for at least a week to watch for signs of any more rot spreading and make sure everything is dry before repotting it.

I have seen photos of adult adeniums that had rot and become completely hollowed out and still lived to grow. They can make some amazing bonsai, or turn into ugly but interesting monsters but you might still be able to save it.

I've used super glue myself. Others use a wood glue and as it's even less brittle when dried, it may work better actually. I think it's worth trying. I wouldn't cut off and restart it unless you have to, but if you do choose to remove any branches you can also try rooting those too.

Here is one of those examples - it was posted around Facebook for a while and is also on the web and Pinterest. Seems all hollowed out from top to bottom with some side branches growing back in like a very old man of a tree!

Hyn, I used Elmer's WP wood Glue, but I think I would use Super glue as you do instead. I find for the purpose of a large exterior area such as the caudex, the Super glue would dry clear as opposed to a beige color, Elmer'sWPWG does.

Rick

I agree, clear is good so you can see if there is any progression of rot and any need to go back in and do further cleaning. But I'll warn you the super glue crystalizes and fractures so you can't see through it very well anyway. Here's a shot of one I cut out rot and sealed with super glue and you can see it mostly turned cloudy with mico-cracks over time. But you can still have a sense of what the tissue looks like underneath it.

Something I'd also been thinking about is sealing with clear silicone glue like E-6000. Staying flexible it can seal against moisture loss to protect against withering but flex with the contraction or expansion of the plant tissues without cracking. But I hadn't tried it yet. I could cut up a seedling to try it this week for root training. Trying clear nail polish may also be an option but it may have trouble sticking and can be prone to peeling.

Thanks for all the suggestions!
I think I'll try using a router bit on an electric drill to do some precision
debridement tomorrow.

Good luck with it! I hope you can save it.

Thanks!

I'll let you know how it goes. ;)

Webuser, Your plant is in much better shape than my and I was able to save it. I am sure after a good cleaning, you can save your plant too. I found out that using a pressure hose works better. Surprisingly, my plant dried up in three days, however I let it sit for close to two weeks. I just potted a few days ago. It is still recovering. A big rock is inside of it to support it from falling. Good luck.

WOW! =O Glad
I didn't give up on it or dismember it without first trying to debride it.

That's amazing.....adeniums.......sensitive in some ways, but tough in others.
Here are the router bits, plus some drill bits that I may use to
drill out the bad tissue.
I just bought the one on the far right today, and preliminary results are
good. I have to wait till tomorrow morning now, as the sun is so bright,
I can't see well enough inside.

I put the adenium in shade, and lighting should be even in the AM.
First tried a rechargeable drill, but the RPMs are too low, so will use
an electric one instead.

BTW, just found this 7.5 mb 191 page pdf from South Africa that looks like it may be
worth reading. ;)

a good exacto knife might be all that you need … unless these are your craft

Thanks for the suggestion.

I do have a set of exacto knives, and will use them to make clean cuts.
I think the drill bits will work best on the deeper parts of the caudex that
an exacto would be hard to use.
I'll see what works best with the least damage.

Be sure to clean tour blade with alcohol for EACH cut. You don't want any contamination. Cotton balls and alcohol … with an alcohol chaser/libation AFTER you are done! ^_^

Wow, Shang. That is impressive work. I hope it settles in well for you and makes it! Inspiring, and nice use of a rock both as a prop and to make things interesting. With traditional bonsai, it's also a regular thing to /carve/ a piece of dead wood to look all gnarly and weathered and then actually attach it to the tree for a prop or to make it look nicer. Most do not consider it 'cheating' but some do. I say the heck with it, do what you need to in order to save your tree and enjoy it. Some epoxy on pieces to make them look like dragons or parts of palaces, or craggy mountains, whatever it takes to enjoy it as a work of art.

It looks a bit like a medieval helmet put a fake crystal skull in it let it grow around it just another suggestion:×)

I'm thinking about putting a little gnome in mine after it's healed. ;)

The decay was deep......too deep to use an exacto blade.
Instead, I opted to use a 3/8" drill to get to both core and
slice the edges. I could feel when it hit the mush vs firm
tissue. It was a real "root canal". Painful for both of us. =(

After drilling out the decayed tissue, I washed out the
loose material, then lifted the whole plant out of the pot,
hosed off all the old soil, and sprayed the wound & roots
(which look good) with Physan.

Now I'm letting it dry out for at least a few more days if not a week,
and will re-pot with new cactus mix if everything looks Ok.
I was going to add some large perlite (commercial grade) to
help aerate the mix.

BTW, I haven't put any glue on the cuts yet. I think the Physan
will keep prevent any new rot, but will keep a close eye on it,
and may use some Gorilla Super Glue in a few areas, e.g.
where the larger root was scuffed.

Here are the pics.....the wound looks dark in this pic, so may need
to still use the Exacto to trim to the live tissue.

Scuffed areas on roots. The piece of window screen I used to cover
the drainage hole is embedded in the roots......I'll leave it, and
use a convex piece of broken pottery instead in the new pot.

I'll plant the caudex 4" deep instead of 5" in a wider pot (from Home Depot), which has a taro now (which I will re-pot in a deeper pot).

Waiting to repot is difficult.

Thanks for all the suggestions. When I saw the extent of the decay,
I was horrified and felt so much remorse for not catching it earlier.
Never thought I'd get so involved with a plant! =O

I have a lot of different types of plants, and care for each, but these are
extra special.

Cal,

If when cleaning up the effected area there are any discolored areas of tissue, either beige, brown. Cream/white tissue has to be through out or you will be right back at cleaning it up again. One small bit of damaged tissue will continue.

Rick

Ok, thanks, Rick.
I'll have to take it back to surgery.
Will have a new pic for consult later. ;)

Cal, I'm actually doing/did the same thing to my adenium and I was wondering how it all played out, shall I use glue:) ? Thank for the help.. any tips would really really be appreciated

Ps ricks amazing and has helped me a lot... thanks Rick

If you’re only watering once a week how could it get rot? May be the soil is not draining well? I water mine every day during the summer season and have had no issue.