Great bunnyllg... they do look very nice.... sorry for the confusion.

I haven't been able to get the lighting drawing from our builder just yet, but I think I have decided to go with the wooden lantern I posted earlier. I have a couple more questions for you kind ladies!

1) Would you choose 2 or 3 lanterns, considering our island is 9' x 4' and our ceilings are 9' tall? The lanterns are 12"w x 20.75" h.

2) What style fixture do you suggest for our dining area (which is set up similar to a breakfast nook in the kitchen, just larger)? We plan to buy a 7' farmhouse table that extends. There is a chandelier in the same lighting series and color as the lanterns, but I'm afraid it will look too "matchy matchy," plus my husband isn't a fan of it. I'm leaning towards a simple candelabra style chandelier, but am wondering what finish to buy to coordinate with the lanterns. Thoughts?

Thanks so much for your input!

With 12" for over island, that means 3, IMO. I would do a open cage style with similar finishes for over your table.

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I don't think that one comes in a finish like your island ones, but something along that line would possibly work. Just depends on wood in the table, and other elements in the space. What color are the chair seats? Upholstery? Might need some contrast since the ones over the island will be pretty subtle.

Flo, thank you so much for the suggestions! I'm having trouble telling what finish will work best with the lantern since I am only able to see it online before ordering all of our fixtures. Reviewers say that overall it has an antique brass feel. (It is a metal fixture that is painted to look like wood.) I like both of the lights you posted, and I have a few photos of options we have through our builder. Do you think a beaded chandelier like one of these may work? As for our table/chairs/upholstery...we are starting from scratch, but the sofa in the great room will be linen, and I'm leaning towards something along the lines of what I'm posting here for chairs with a table that matches. We just haven't found the perfect one yet. I can't thank you enough for your input!

I the beaded ones would work quite well. Just make sure sizing is good for the "potential" table. Very hard selecting fixtures before furniture. A standard table size would be 72" x 36-40wide. But part of the determination is what is the ceiling height? What is the overall space the table will be sitting in? How wide and long? But with a table 40" wide, you can go to probably 28" max and that depends on the shape of the fixture too. If it tapers up you can use larger, if it is wide at the bottom, then might have to go a bit more narrow. If you have a 9' ceiling you can do 28" fixture most likely. I would definitely get one on a chain because they are much easier to work with than ones with a "post" and/or plate and post. Is the ceiling flat over the table? Or slanted? Lots of questions and things to consider, but I think you can pull it off with a little work on the measurements I mention. I have done it many times, but I can look at a fixture, know the room or drawing and I can visualize the volume. For some reason, I have this gift. I can look at a drawing and visualize instantly the volume and in my mind a 3D picture comes up. It amazes me and my architect friends and my builders! So give me a bit more info and I can help more.

Oh, and here is a snapshot of a sample of our hardwoods that will be throughout the downstairs...

You are an angel and, without a doubt, very gifted!!

Our ceilings will be 9 feet and flat in the dining room. I'm attaching the open concept portion of our floor plan as well. Thank you, thank you!

The beaded ones would work really well with the flooring. Is that a sample of your cabinet doors? Or just the paint color of the doors? What style door are you doing?

One other consideration -- in your opinion, will all of these oaky wood tones in lighting work okay with a light gray paint paint color scheme and all of the gray veining in the marble island countertop, gray quartz perimeter countertops, and the gray veining in our marble backsplash? All of the cabinets will be Arctic White (not at all creamy) with polished nickel hardware.

I can't remember if that is the Arctic White sample or not...I took that photo when we were first weighing options. The cabinet door style will be a thin profile shaker, so no beveling like in the photo.

Oh, great. This confirms 3 over the island for my thoughts if you stick with the 12" x 12" width fixture. Now the dining area is another question. That is a very narrow space for a 6' table. You have 13' which will leave 3.5 feet open on each end. You have a door swing to accommodate, so with a chair pushback of at least 3' that is tight. But the width is even tighter. Are you thinking a bench on the window side so you can push the table up to save walk space on between the island and the table and chairs? As I read this drawing, the depth of that space is around 55", so if you put a 36" wide table with even a 2' push back space that will encroach into the walkway. So, you might have quite a challenge for a table in this space. You might need to figure this out now, because that will also affect where the junction box for any chandelier should be placed. A round table might be better but it too would come out into the space between the island and the other space. The entry to the Bedroom #2 will be impacted somewhat as well. Something to do some scale layouts for sure before you purchase a table of any kind. Hope this helps you avoid buying something that won't work. Once you get the framing complete, you can layout some boxes in the space the size of a table and some chairs and see the volume and space you need and what might work best. But I know this is going to be a tough one. Not impossible, but difficult. Oval table might work if narrow. I don't mean to scare you, but to inform you so you can make really good choices for purchases that will work well in this space.

OK great cabinet style and the grays and your wood tones can work together if they have similar undertones. The hardware looks too traditional, so I would select brushed nickel with straighter lines. Simple post types. It is going to be very pretty space, just quite concerned about table and size of that space.

You make some excellent points, and I only wish I had found you for advice when we were making adjustments to the floor plan. (They just completed framing last week.) I do plan to ask if they can have the door in the dining area open out rather than in, so that may help a little with the table size. I will take your advice and lay out boxes to see what size table can work best there. I'm sad that you don't think the hardware works, since I'm in love with the shine of the polished nickel, but I so appreciate you letting me know so I can revisit that decision. Thank you again for all of your time and input! I'm truly so grateful!

You are so welcome Caroline. Building is very stressful, but it all seems to work out in the end so it will be OK. I highly recommend doing the box trick in the dining area. I don't think they can have an exterior door open outward, but things might be different wherever you are. If in the U.S. though, I don't think so. You can get the polished nickel in other styles, so no worries there. You might have to order independent of the builder, but that isn't usually a big deal.

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Thank you! Thankfully, our builder works with small, local suppliers, so we pretty much have all of Top Knobs pulls and knobs to choose from, which is amazing, if a little overwhelming. ;) The third one I posted below also comes in brushed nickel, but the beveled center remains somewhat polished looking. May be a good middle of the road option.

The middle one of your first posting above would work, but remember you have shaker cabinets. So the straighter the lines, the better it will look. Are your faucets chrome?

The more detail the design, the more "traditional" the look becomes and your kitchen is more modern than traditional as I see it? Maybe I am wrong?

My style is transitional, but leans more traditional. I can hardly help it being a native Southerner. We've lived in Colorado for a while now, but no matter how hard I try to branch out, I think I will forever have Tennessee style. haha!

Here is the drawing of the kitchen. So, we'll have glass cabinets at the top, crown molding everywhere, etc., so I think it leans more transitional. Our island will be honed Carrara marble, which I think (?) leans traditional, and the sink is a white fireclay farmhouse style. Hopefully that helps a little with the vision...and I hope I'm on the right track. Our goal is to keep it looking like 30-somethings live here, but also keep things classic and timeless.

Oh, and to answer your question, we haven't decided on the faucet yet.

Thank you again for all of your advice! I could keep you up all night asking questions! I better get to bed, but thank you, thank you, and have a wonderful evening!

bunnyllg, That is a very good point! I hadn't thought of that. What do you have above your table?

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I'm back for a few more opinions. We finalize lighting next week, and so my decisions have flip-flopped a bit. I have decided to go with industrial style lighting, after all, in either a polished nickel finish or the glass shades like in Photo 3 below to keep things fun, but classic. We'll have three 14" pendants that look similar to the lights in these photos. Our kitchen will have very similar finishes to these photos, as well....marble/white cabs/etc. I want to go for a hint of farmhouse style without being too over-the-top, so I'm especially struggling now with what type light fixture to use over our dining room table. I feel like even the simplest polished nickel fixtures look really dressy, and I want to find something more casual, airy, and soft, but that at least coordinates with the pendants. I'm not sure exactly what size we'll need since we haven't ordered our table yet, but I would love any thoughts you have about what general style I should be seeking. Would a simple polished nickel candelabra work with a farmhouse table and linen upholstery? Thanks in advance for any input!

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Here's an example of a candelabra I'm considering....

Can you tell me the exact spacing you ended up using, did you just divide the island in thirds and hang the lights above starting from the center one? It looks that way, my island will be exact size as yours and my lights are same width. I love how yours turned out...

Since this is an old post, this may help aid you Trish P.

You really would be better off with two, if they are indeed 14 inches at the widest. It's a bit of a crowd...........not a disaster, but tight.: ) NO lower than 32 from the counter to bottom of light, I like 36 , especially when that close to ends of island.

Ten or twelve inches is really best wide width on a nine foot island.

Caroline - I thought a real life picture might help you. This is photo of our kitchen in our previous home. The island is 9’ plus long and 5’ wide. So a bit more narrow but same length. The globe lights are 12” round. About 34” above countertop. Ceiling is 10’.

Trish, we spaced ours 36 inches apart from the center. I’ve been very pleased with our decision, and I love the slightly oversized look. Here are a few more photos.

Oversized is current trend. And I was ready to remodel our kitchen. But decided to let next owner do it! So I would go bigger especially if you do open lantern style.

It's beautiful Caroline!

Very lovely kitchen Caroline. Your pendants are proportionally perfect! And hung just right! Good job!

I think your choice was right - three pendants, good sizes! Lovely.