What kind of cabs are they ? What primer exactly did you use and what's the finish in them ? You always have to sand clean first with tsp then sand clean then prime with oil base primer and then top coat with oil base paint

It was Benjamin Moore "fresh start" or something like that. We cleaned, I'm not sure how sanded the got (but definitely not completely sanded down), and then primed (I didn't personally do this part). Then painted with semi-gloss latex BM paint (all of this was discussed with the people working at the BM paint store).

Despite what we "always" have to do- I am interested in what to do now, at this point. Something that doesn't involve sanding down and starting over.

(On that note, I've read a lot about painting cabinets with latex paint... Was never told or read it must "always" be oil? Wish I had know that earlier...)

The cabinets were wood, old and cheap (plywood I was told). Can't exactly remember their finish. Attached a "before" photo.

I've painted cabinets with latex before and its fine. sometimes its really hard to get a great paint job on things like that without having a professional, and even then it can be tough. If the paint is really not adhering it's because its not sticking to what is underneath and I'm nt sure anything will fix that. If you think it is more of a problem of juts needing a tougher paint that will hold up better to the rigors of a kitchen ten i have one suggestion for you. You can try to use an exterior paint, it has a much tougher formula, obviously because it has to withstand the elements. Good luck!

Sanding them is a big part of the adhesion process . They don't have to only be oil but its the best finish for surfaces that get heavy use . To fix them now hard to say I'm not there but I say install everything you need to install and them touch them up if it was me I would sand them all the way down to to old cabinet finish and start over I would use advance from Benjamin it's a oil emulsion paint

Was the paint store right in selling me the fresh start vs Killz ( not sure that is how it's spelt)? I feel like I'm blaming my problems on them and I'm not sure it's justified.

Can I try BM advance over what's already on there?

Fresh start actually is a really good primer

You have to sand it down and remove any loose paint

I'm assuming sanding it down is going to be a huge disaster mess wise. Honestly not sure I'm up for it.

Why do you think it will be a disaster ?

And when I say sand it's to remove the gloss only unless if the paint below is peeling off also take in mind that latex paint takes its time to cure so you painted today for instance and started working around tomorrow the chances of them scratching or chipping is really high

Getting it fixed is more important that "who done it" so I recommend a light, thorough sanding of the paint finish, wiping down with tack cloth to remove all dust, painting a new coat of latex, allow to dry for at least 24 hours, then one coat of clear poly satin which should be allowed to dry for 48 hours before messing with. Sorry, about your disappointment....been there.

Just to clarify- its not like the paint is flaking off or anything. But I can see where things have hit it and scratched it off.

I just figured sanding = messy (disaster). I hate the thought of getting dust all over everything.

I'm confused as to how much I'd have to sand? Down to the original finish and then under the gloss? (They were not really glossy though).

Sand only on what you painted unless it is peeling off then remove all the latex paint

I would lightly sand the portions that are showing the nicks, wipe down, repaint, then coat everything will poly to protect against more nicks. Old plywood cabinetry probably has stored up a bunch of oil, cooking ick and such and won't cooperate with your desire to have a nice, smooth, durable finish. Also, must allow everything to dry really well before applying new coats. The poly coat really will help.

Ok! Thanks! I'm going to try and start tackling this this weekend. I'm only looking for the cabinets to last us 5 years or so... But I would prefer five years of them looking decent ;)

Would the clear poly help with the "dull" look to them (doesn't really look like a semi-gloss?).

And would a third coat of latex help, or maybe a coat of the Advance paint? Or just sand and touch up areas that need it and then do the poly?

I was a decorative painter for years and can tell you, your finished product is only as good as your preparation. If the surface of the new paint on the cabinets is scratching as in 'the paint is coming off right down to the original wood,' then your prep wasn't good enough for primer to adhere properly to the cabinet, and the latex paint which may have bonded to the primer isn't a durable enough choice for cabinets and shelving. It's not good news I know, but they do look bright and clean in the white you did select. For the work involved in re-stripping, sanding and proper priming, consider refacing them or replacing them with inexpensive cabinet doors.

Just putting the previous responses with the ones you just wrote and clearly the "paint another coat" didn't stick in my head-

So I'll do a whole coat of latex (after lightly sanding) and then the poly.

And no, there are no real flakes coming off. Just where stuff has clearly scratched or hit the cabinets.

I always thought "refacing" meant replacing the doors? What exactly is "refacing"?

If you poly use a latex poly you are going to need to get 600 grit sand Paper and lightly scuff sand the paint before putting the poly on make sure you scuff sand all in one direction. I usually don't recommend polys over paint but I'm trying to help you get a decent finish

They wrap the doors with a new veneer

So for a latex poly I'd paint another coat, wait for it to dry, then sand, then do the poly?

Any thoughts on doing another coat with the bm advance paint? Or can I not use that over latex?

Or "lightly scuff" not sand (like you said...)
Sorry I'm at work while trying to figure this out and clearly doing a horrible job of retaining the information in my responses.

Paint another coat let it dry lightly scuff sand with 600 grit sandpaper then poly

Ok thank you. Sorry I'm doing a horrible job at following/understanding this.

No worries we are here to help

Not to sound like a broken record but would using the advance paint as the final coat help at all? Or should I use the same regular BM one I've been using?

BM recently suggested I use their Advance line to paint our bedroom furniture. I have done a lot of research on painting wood or wood like finished these last few weeks. No matter who I asked they always advised to lightly sand down first, use a good primer like Stixx or Kilz and then a good paint, like Advance. I didn't want to sand either, hence why we just decided to get new furniture. I would think your option would be to either rough them up a bit and go with a distressed look or getting right back down to the original material and starting over. I don't think putting a good primer on top of the paint you have already used will do any good. That will eventually come off as well.

I don't think I'm looking for a good primer to put on them, just give them a hardier finish.

On that note, I'm not quite sure how much they were sanded (again I wasn't there when it was done). I know the baseboard got really lightly sanded, primed and painted exactly the same and is holding up well so far. And that was a glossy oil paint finish initially.

Maybe I just had higher hopes for these cabinets?

Consider looking at resurfacing ideas and getting a free estimate from a Home Depot or Lowes type store. You have already painted the frames and I've seen resurfacing and it looks really good and is way cheaper than new cabinets. They probably give a warranty too. If you only need 5 years, weigh the time spent to repaint again vs what's available in solid finishes knowing you can always just repaint the frame (easy!) to match a solid white color finished cabinet. The Martha Stuart line has solids and a clean look. A good paint dealer can commercially match anything. The poly finish is a good idea as mentioned, but will come off if what's underneath isn't stable. The higher the gloss, the more durable as a rule. If you do go with a mix of a painted frame and resurfaced doors, they should be the same color and have the same level of sheen and they'll look like good as new! Good luck sir!

The baseboards probably didn't have a varnish on them, but the cabinets most likely did making them much more difficult for a paint to stick to. If it is only temporary, I would try the distressed look. I feel your pain in not wanting to do all of them over again.

The scratch that inspired this post is on the cabinet frames (not the doors).
Maybe I should just let it go and know that we are going to remodel soon enough.

How do I roughen them up for a distressed look?

Scuff sand the cabs really well clean them from dust and put on a coat of advanced and call it a day

Any recommendations on the sandpaper grit?

Depending on how soft the paint is now 220 or higher 320 maybe start with 220 and see if it powders slightly if not let it dry longer latex won't powder but it shouldn't peel

Thank you!!!

I wouldn't do anything much more with them. It's not worth it. Sorry.
I bought a house that had cupboards much newer than yours but previous owners did not have a kitchen exhaust fan. They painted the dirty greasy cabinets with antique barn red latex. When I tried to clean them i could wash the paint off in areas. I decided to paint them with annie sloan chalk paint. I would not suggest you do that here. But... If you found doors on kijiji that would fit your cupboards even if they were the wrong colour it would be a better use of your time. I took each door off the hinges, washed it in the laundry tub with lots of Dawn dish soap, rinsed thoroughly, let dry overnight, wiped down with mineral spirits (dont use tsp, chalk paint won't stick afterwards), let evaporate overnight. Paint with A.S. chalk paint (used 2 coats to cover dark red), let FULLY dry, apply clear wax, buff, polish. It was a lot of work but they look great. My time and less than $80 worth of materials. Months later they still look great, no chips, no scratches.