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Sprinkler irrigation with trees

I keep reading that sprinklers are not an effective way to water trees because there water does not go deep enough. But aren't sprinklers mimicking rain? So 1" per week twice a week should be equivalent to a similarly amount of rain. Or is there something I'm missing?

Also, if I'm using sprinklers to water the lawn around a tree, do I have to worry about the sprinkler stream hitting the trunk or is it harmless? Are fixed spray heads vs rotary nozzles preferred here?

Thanks

Comments (7)

  • 9 years ago

    Do you know how long it takes for your sprinkler to put out one inch of water? It has to be measured.

    ofdm (South Bay Area CA zone 9b) thanked rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't currently have sprinklers but I'm thinking of putting them in and that's why I need to know how to work around, or for, the tree. The tree was only planted earlier this spring so I don't want to delay trenching for sprinklers to minimize root damage.

    The sprinkler heads' datasheet has information like inches/per hour which I can use for design purposes. And then I'll also measure using an empty tin can or something similar once they're installed.

    Regarding drip irrigation, won't it provide only a thin vertical column of moist soil? I've read that feeder roots are everywhere under and beyond the drip line. Soaker hoses are recommended but I was just wondering if lawn sprinklers would work as well provided I do the right calculations for deep and sufficient watering.

    Also, as mentioned earlier, I don't know if I should be concerned about spray hitting the trunk directly?

  • 9 years ago

    I recommend soaker houses, placed in a circle under the drip line. Sprinklers are inefficient due to evaporation, sprinkling the tree trunk will provide a wet environment. Insects and fungus like wet environments.


    Re drip irrigation, you use as many as needed, maybe 3 or 4 for a young tree.

    Drip may take an hour or two to get an inch.

  • 9 years ago

    Regarding spray on the trunk, I wouldn't over do it with a high pressure sprinkler but otherwise, rain hits the tree.

    Here water restrictions are not an issue. Heck, idiots build welfare for the rich subdivisions and office parks in the floodplain or the largest rivers on the continent. So I don't feel too bad if some of my sprinkler water evaporates into our 90% humidity.

    Preferred type of sprinkler? One with an in and an out connection so I can string several together.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Regarding spray hitting the trunk, I wouldn’t be too concerned unless it was a small tree sited near the sprinkler head. In this case, I’d temporarily place plastic tubing around it. I installed a sprinkler system three years ago, and I see no evidence of damage to the trees.

    Here’s a pic my spouse took shortly after it was installed, which she mockingly referred to as Master of His Domain. Thank you, Sweetheart. ;)

  • 9 years ago

    many conifers have a waxy glacous coating on the needles .. its what make many of them not green.. the best example would be a blue spruce ...


    the wax can wear off if repeatedly hit by a stream of water ... making your otherwise blue spruce... a green spruce ... since thats the default color underneath ...


    ergo ... you would not be wanting to blast off the wax... else what was the point of paying extra for the plant ... eh???


    grass roots are in the top 2 or 3 inches of soil ... any water applied beyond that is simply a waste of water ...as far as the grass goes ...


    a tree has its roots down to 12 inches or so .. you will know.. by the pot or ball of soil you planted ... if you water the top 3 inches... what about the other 8 inches??? or 9 inches if you do the math right .. lol ...


    as with any irrigation.. on your property.. in your soil.. in your area .. ONLY YOU can find out if water if getting to the depth a tree needs .. and keep in mind ... once established.. a tree should be totally free range ... its the transplant that requires that you water the tree so it can get over the related stresses .. to get established ....


    and the ONLY way to do that.. is to take a hand trowel.. and dig small holes around your transplant .. and FIND OUT ... how far water is getting down into the root zone .... the key is.. if the grass is not getting enough water.. you can see it.. and react accordingly .... and the grass will recover fast ... but on any type of evergreen.. it might be months before you can see the problem.. perhaps by seeing browning leaves/needles ... and by that time.. that tissue is dead ... and there is no way to recover those needles ... but not necessarily that the plant is dead .... so once you find out how long it takes to get to depth.. you can adjust the watering schedule accordingly ...


    as to hitting the trunk.. whatever.. if the spray is not hard enough to damage bark or tissue.. i really dont think that its an issue ...


    see link below on planting a tree.. key into the proper watering for this subject ...


    i see that she who shall be obeyed.. has been benevolent enough to give you the rights to your domain .... lol....


    btw .. if you had hard water.. or rust.. whatever.. when your conifers started turning copper/rust colored.. you would soon learn not to hit anything but the lawn ... at least you dont have to deal with that ...


    ken

    https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub