This oven was manufactured in a faulty manor and the company should be making restitution. Call BBB and fill out the paperwork.

We, too, have a 2011 double wall oven with the F14 error code. I would love to know if anyone has gotten through to electrolux. We will be calling BBB and filling out the paperwork.

Just got the F14 code today On our 2011. Oven was not in use, and we start to hear a beeping. F14 code flashing! Oven was last used 2 days ago. And we never used self cleaning. Tried cancel which worked, started heating on bake, worked until 101 degrees, then fault code 14. Happened on both ovens. shut breaker off, will leave overnight. Going to start pricing parts, have already replaced bottom heating element twice in the upper oven

I'm having the same F14 code. Anyone have any luck with BBB or electrolux?

Bought ours in Feb 2011 with an extended warranty which ran out in May 2016. September of the same year got our first E-15 error code. Had the tech replace the user interface board for $320 (CAD). Everything fine until Jully 2019 when we got the E-14 code. This was cleared up by the breaker reset method. Yesterday I was heating the oven to 425º and at 275º I heard the dreaded beeping and the F-14 error code was showing. From reading the experiences above it looks like having the user interface board replaced would be a waste of money—it's likely to be the touch panel which is delaminating due to heat from the oven—perhaps exacerbated by our habit of, after using the oven, leaving the door open to accelerate cooling in the winter so that damned fan shuts off earlier.

So a $1200 fix seems inevitable, since the unit cannot be sold non-functioning, but we will be looking for a new range, and it certainly will not be Electrolux.

We never used the self cleaning function, by the way.

Too bad a class action lawsuit is unlikely. The least Electrolux could do is provide cheap or free control panels to original owners. There must be stacks of them rotting on their warehouse shelves which will be disposed of once the legally required period for parts availability is passed.

update: I talked to the tech yesterday who said F-14 indicated improper communication between the control board and the touch panel which could be caused by a bad contact at the end of a ribbon connector or a fault in either the touch panel or the control board. In Canadian dollars the touch panel would cost $1400+ and the control board another $400+ Then there's labour and tax. If either of the parts is found not to be needed, there is no refund. Moreover when asked if the functioning range could then be sold for what the fix would cost he laughed...

So, it's either pay the $2000+ to get another ?years out of it or take my losses, buy new again and pay to have this elegant piece of **** removed and disposed of. I

Before I do that, though, I am going to attempt to get at the circuit board myself and clean the contacts at the end of the ribbon cable(s?) and see if that's the problem. I am finding it difficult to find instruction on getting at the bottom of the touch panel and if I'm unsuccessful I'll hire the tech to come around and do that while I watch (so I know how it's done), then go away while I clean the ribbon contacts and put the thing back together by myself. He was reluctant to provide any information as to how to get at the circuit boards, saying he 'was not my teacher', so I didn't press it.

I rarely used mine and never used the self clean function. I just think it’s an expensive piece of junk that is clearly a manufacturing defect. What a shame. My oven is built in so I’m not sure I can change it without recutting the area. 🤔 Anyway...
I’ll never EVER buy this brand again.

I bought a great LG wall oven to replace my Electroluxe nightmare, but the hole is 3/8" too small for the LG! What the heck! These things should all have standard measurements! Oh, wait! It's Electroluxe! HA>

I, too, will chime in on the disgust of this brand. Like you all, that very infamous code F14 has reared its ugly head on my oven multiple times...that was installed in...2010! I won’t even get started with the dishwasher...that has been “repaired” so many times until we just said forget this piece of crap. I will be the owner of a new Bosch dishwasher tomorrow! Never ever another Electrolux product in my home!

When we got our Electrolux we also got a Blomberg dishwasher on the advice of the salesman who said they were made in Turkey in a factory set up by Bosch and that they were re-badged Bosches. We have had zero problems with it and it does a great job, but was half the price of the Bosch.

Lisa... I have a Bosch induction stovetop and I absolutely love it. I'll probably get a Bosch dishwasher for my next one too.

Update: After being stymied trying to get at the circuit boards to clean the contacts I thought it was worth paying the service tech to do that, the idea being that if it worked—fine, I would have saved up to $2000 for the (questionable) fix, and if it didn't I would be out $140, not $2000. It didn't work so I had to buy another range and pay to have the Electrolux dumped. So wasteful, dumping a perfectly good looking expensive appliance because of the cost of a single small part. No thanks, Electrolux—you should have redeemed yourselves by offering the parts for this model at your cost. We bought a Samsung based on the excellent reliability reported on them. It doesn't have rolling racks or two timers (which we found handy), but the oven comes up to temperature over twice as fast (400º in 9 minutes, vs over 20 minutes), the thermostat for the oven is adjustable ±30º (!) the burners are much quieter as is the fan.

We'll see, but so far so good. One downside of the Samsung is the markings on the knobs and surrounding the knobs are just painted on a smooth surface instead of etched in, so I am wary of wiping them off when cleaning; I don't like that look!

Great info! So did the Samsung fit where the Electrolux was or did you have to adjust the space?

There were notches in the edge of the counter where the Elctrolux was mounted that were needed, apparently, (I can't remember) for the Electrolux slide-in. These still show and my short term (possibly permanent) solution is to paint he exposed MDF of the counter black so it is less visible. You don't really notice it anyway; it's about an inch by an inch.

Apart from that it fits the original cut out in the counter perfectly. One thing to note is that, unlike the Electrolux, the rear feet of the Samsung are not adjustable from the front so the range might have to be slid out a couple of times to get the height of the rear part of the top correct, which is important to prevent food and spills from going under the glass top.

Also, the power plug is in a similar location, so that fits.

I bought an LG to replace my crappy Electrolux and it was also 3/8" too big. I am going to have to pay BIG bucks to make the setting accept the new oven. Where do I sign up for the class action suit?

That’s awful Beth. I’d like to know how to do a class action as well. This thing is an expensive nightmare.

I too have the F14 error code, tried the connectors but still getting code. I'm all in for class action law suit against electroluxe

I still do no have an oven replacement installed. I can't let anyone in my home due to the Covid-19 thing and I am at risk! I have been limping along with a toaster oven. YUCK! Someone call a lawyer!

I’ve been doing the same, Beth but will have to break down and pay for it to be repaired for the holidays. We’ve got a great Convection Toaster Oven that works very well and has quite a bit of space for a typical dinner.

EEEgads, I just bought Frigidaire double wall ovens, not yet installed. This won’t be fun, it seems. My Frigidare induction cooktop used 2x just repaired this morning, potentiometer Replaced, Bought the warranty and will buy one for the wall ovens. .

Same problem here!! no ovens since early October...hard to get repairman during Covid..... had 2 parts replaced and now need the 1100 dollar part! Remodeled in 2012 and thought we bought the best to last. and boy did we get fooled! Now trying to decide on the new part or new double ovens...so disgusted and yes I think us F14 folks need a class action suit sooner than later. had to outsource Thanksgiving and now Christmas looks dismal too. And our Electrolux Dishwasher door broke a hinge....paid to get it fixed and it broke again, now it lands on the floor....so sad that there are no dependable products anymore.

Wow. Looks like a whole Electrolux F14 error club here. I have an Electrolux slide-in induction range. The keypad now produces an F14 error whenever any button affecting the oven is pressed. However, the induction controls on the other side of the same keypad work just fine. Here are two more data points just to make it more weird: The clock is still working, but pressing the "user pref" button to set the clock also results in an F14 error. Pressing the control lock button only results in an F14 error after the three seconds that it would normally take to trigger the lock. You would think that if the touchpad had really failed, then it would trigger the error right away instead of after 3 seconds.

On my wall oven: clock still works, the F14 showed up about 3-5 seconds into the preheat phase. Really bad motherboards, here and Electrolux will not own up to it.

For those contemplating replacing their Electrolux with a Samsung model NE63T8311SS/AC, know this (in comparison with the Electrolux):

Samsung pros:

• good reputation for reliability

• quieter cooling fan

• much faster oven warm up to temp—over twice as fast

• less noise from elements while heating

• perfectly accurate oven temp (measured with oven thermometer inside), but the temp is adjustable if yours isn't accurate!

• blue fake flames are handy sometimes to indicate element on

Samsung cons:

• slower heating on most powerful element

• inadequate control of simmer temperatures 'LO' is too low, as is '1'. '2' is also too low most of the time, but '3' is too high. It needs the fineness of control the Electrolux had; 1.2, 1.4, 1.6 and 2, 2.5 and 3. Also, irrational control at the high temp end: if max heating is wanted, you select top level and it shows 'P'. Once the liquid boils and you try to go one down, it goes straight to '8', but if you turn it up a notch it shows '9'. The only way to get '9' is going up from '8'??

• cheaper feel to the doors (especially lower drawer) and racks, no rolling racks—they were nice

• less rational arrangement of the elements and choice of sizes; the Electrolux was better

• only one timer. The two in the Electrolux were often handy

Conclusion: if the Electrolux had been more reliable, it would out-class the Samsung substantially, except for the agonizingly slow oven heating and the noisy elements and fans.

Great info rdawkins. Thank you. Was the size the same as the Electorlux? Mine is built-in and it'd be nice to not have to recut the space.

Yes the size of the cutout is basically the same as needed for the Electrolux. The only difference is the two notches in the front of the cut out area needed for the Electrolux are not needed for the Samsung. See my comment above (2 months ago) for more details.

Like all the poor chumps above, this chump has the Electrolux convection/inductance stand alone double oven/range, from around 2012, and first the E15, which I could get around (everything still worked) and now the F14 on top of that, which will not let the oven work at all. We paid a lot in CDN, and I resent having to pay over $1000 for a fix, or $2500 for a new one (love the induction range). Count me in for a class action !!! (ve2cy@yahoo.com). In fact, let's demand Electrolux replace the two boards in the control section, and we will drop the action. (I have exactly the same problem as Hillel above, this is outrageous and we shouldn't let them get away with it - free repairs.)

Add one more...has anybody approached Electrolux and received an official reply? Has anyone had success in getting board replacement?

and another. F14 is basically code for your F’d! Jay from CT

Like everyone else here I had my Electrolux double ovens installed in 2011. I got the dreaded F14 error and was told the part would cost $2,200 plus labor and service costs. I never used the self cleaning feature and don't use the ovens that often. I thought they would last me longer than they have. I would love to repair rather than replace but I'm nervous the problem will continue or happen again in a few years. My Electrolux refrigerator was also installed at the same time and is now getting excess moisture inside. I am having the gaskets replaced hoping that will solve the problem. Everyone is concerned about the environment, overflowing landfills and excess waste but we are at the mercy of these manufacturers who no longer care about making quality products. Manufactures should have to guarantee to provide affordable replacement parts so people can repair rather than replace.

Add another. F14 showed up here friday night. electrolux should've stuck with vacuums! they had to replace our refrigerator from 2011 TWICE and i felt like they should’ve paid me for the time i spent making calls, emails, waiting at the house for repair guy, being there for the numerous repairs (edwin from Salemi appliance gets Christmas cards from us!). made a call today, parts arent even available(discontinuedneed, out of stock) but guessing its not even worth fixing? what do you recommend?

May I please join your club now that I too have that lovely F14 error code on my 2011 duel fuel Lack-of Lux range. I'm going to order an oven control module (about $150US). If that doesn't fix it then this chunk of junk is headed for the landfill. Stay tuned.

Same here. 2011 Electrolux wall oven with F14 error code. What can we do to start a class action suit on them?

Looks like I am the newest member! Love the induction cook top. Used the oven for the first time yesterday, worked fine. Today F14. Just bought this house, it is the 2011 model. UGH. BOSCH here we come.

In my case, I fixed it by getting a used glass control pad top on eBay. It came with an oven control board as well, but swapping both the old and new control boards did not make a difference, only the glass pad itself was the problem. The set cost less than a brand new oven control board, so was worth trying. As far as I could tell, the problem was in the circuitry that communicated with the oven control board, which is why the communication with the induction top controls still worked.

Right after that was fixed, the oven relay board blew a relay and had to be replaced. The oven would continue to heat up and not stop. The first replacement that I got also had a faulty relay and was returned, and the second board with newer relays worked.

And another one here. Bought in 2011.

I’m in the same boat here with my Electrolux slide-in (2011) range… most annoying! F14 pops up occasionally, but this only happens on very humid days, and after a day or two thinking it’s dead in the water, it then behaves normally again. Stranger still, sometimes it beeps F14 when the oven & stovetop have not been used all day… just starts beeping out of the blue. Humid weather seems to be connected to this ”hiccup”, and I hope once summer heat passes, it will be reliable again. Time will tell…😬

Had my first F14 code tonight just after turning stove and oven off… unplugged it for a few and now its fine but the self clean hasnt worked for a few years and part of one element is burnt out which is 325.00 for just the part,,,going to junk it and get anything but ELECTROLUX

Got the error flipped breaker, hit cancel. Message went away. Any advice now how to protect the panel?? Only use bottom oven ? Put heat guard behind panel? Never use clean function? Open door after use to vent? I need this massive hunk of junk to last..

F14 means that something is going bad in the oven control glass panel. It could just be one contact to the cable that connects it to the oven control board. Make sure the panel stays clean and dry and that grease or spills are not allowed to cook or steam into it.

F14 victim here. Double wall oven, 27". Bought around 2014.

Hillel Seltzer - should i start by replacing the Oven Control Board?

Hillel Seltzer -

should instart by replacing the Oven Control Panel? it is on Repair Clinic for $310. I can afford that if I can instal it myself.

RC may not be the best price. Shop the part number. There are numerous online sources.

Mike-Julie Willhite - If you have the time and skill, you can try taking your control panel off and disconnecting the cables between the glass touch panel and the control board, make sure they are clean, and reconnect them to see if that solves the issue.

The control panel part you mentioned for $310 is probably the control board, not the outside glass panel. In my case, it was the glass panel (or some electronics in the back of it) that was the problem, not the control board. Those glass touch panels can run near $1000 new. Luckily, I found an excellent condition set of the glass panel and control board together on ebay for less than a new control board.

Did Electrolux ever remedy this problem? i too have the 2011 model and mine is just now starting with the F14 error. I guess it took longer for mine to happen because we don't use the self clean option often. its been several years since we used self clean.

No it was never resolved. I didn't use self clean either and it still happened about six years after I put it in. Some people just bought another mother board but they no longer make it any longer. Expensive oven and it's by far the worst oven I've ever owned.

Junk it. I had 2 repair people analyze the unit and both of them agreed it’s not worth the cost. I ended up getting the “GE Profile 30 Inch. 6.7 cu. ft. Smart Slide-In Front-Control GAS Double Oven Convection Range” and I couldn’t be happier.

I'm so sorry this is still happening to people. I did have the repair done, must have been 2017/18 if my original post was 6 years ago, and now in 2024 it's still fine, knock on wood. (I probably just jinxed it.) I have to believe Electrolux knows about this. It's really too bad, I like a lot of things about the oven.

I'm so sorry this is still happening to people. I did have the repair done, well over $1000, some 6 years ago, and the oven is still working (probably just jinxed it). Electrolux has to be aware of this problem and has no intention of doing anything for us. It's too bad, I like the oven.