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Contractor built wrong counter height, appliances won't fit

8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

Galley kitchen in a CA condo, modest ($35K) full remodel with a (licensed, bonded, vetted) GC. Original plan was for vinyl flooring, and I specified 34.5" vertical clearance for appliances. Mid-project, he offered to upgrade to floor tile, and I agreed. This was several days before the countertop was installed.

Floor is now 3/4" above the subfloor, and lo and behold... bottom cabs & counter are 3/4" too short.

It is possible to detach the countertop, remove a line of backsplash tiles, drill out the plywood underlayment-to-cabinets screws, and reposition. Can cost $1000 to $2500, since there is risk of further damage to the backsplash/granite/cabinets. (And given the "loose tolerance" marginal quality of his work, it is a real risk. Right now aside from the height, it's the best-built part of the kitchen.)

He's the type that fights over every $100, and totally pushes back against this, shirking responsibility, etc. He is willing to cover the cost of replacing the dishwasher with one that'd fit - I'm looking at some options from LG and Bosch that are 32.2 and 33.5" high. And the other undercab appliance, a small wine cooler, has rubber feet that could be replaced to fit.

I know I have every right to make him fix it all at no cost, it's very upsetting to accept delivery of a new kitchen that's built wrong. But I'm debating what's the right real-world choice. It will mean more fighting, 1-4 week delays, maybe small claims court... and I'm worn out. I haven't had a kitchen in 6 months (3 mo. water damage mitigation, planning & GC research and 3 mo. since we signed the contract)... We're 90% done otherwise.

I thought of splitting the expense with him... doesn't seem right, and doesn't prevent the headache if the repair causes new damage.

So... what would you do?

Comments (23)

  • 8 years ago
    When we moved into our new, semi custom house, we discovered that our front load washing machine and our wine fridge wouldn't fit under their respective countertops. The builder and his carpenter were able to make adjustments under the counter so the wine fridge slides in, and I found that you can take the top off the washing machine and replace it with a metal plate from the manufacturer that reduced the height of the washer just enough. The builer bought the plate and had his guy install it. Don't know if either solution would work for you, but I was happy with my outcome - everything fits, no danpmage, and only a few hours to get it sorted.
  • 8 years ago

    Most DWs can adjust up to 3/4”-1”. You don’t need a specialty DW for 1/4”. Have him adjust the legs on your DW first. I’ve even taken off the feet and had it rest on the frame in some retrofit situations where the floor is as tiled after the cabinets.

  • 8 years ago

    Thanks, I'm well aware that it's a common issue in retrofit applications, it's just frustrating to get this in a $35K new kitchen due to nothing but oversight.

    The Maytag DW definitely won't fit, even with taking its wheels off and removing some insulation, it'd be at 34.0". We double-checked.

  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    HA! I'd be far more worried that the tile was out of "code for the condo". Anyone BELOW you? These are very often "no tile" residences

    "Original plan was for vinyl flooring, and I specified 34.5" vertical
    clearance for appliances. Mid-project, he offered to upgrade to floor
    tile, and I agreed. This was several days before the counter top was
    installed".


    "Mid project" btw, is not a few days before a counter top install. Mid project is when the cabinets are hanging around waiting to be installed.


    Assuming as "you spec'd the 34 ish" appliance clearance....... did it not occur when SOMEONE/approved/ selected the tile that it was thicker than the original selection?

    I am wondering whose leftovers/rejects he sold you.......that's what I'm wondering.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Lol Joe, the same way he was counting on dumping someones rejected tile : )

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    As Joesph mentioned this is an issue that can be rectified but every change in a kitchen design needs to be thought out both by you and the contractor. But it is fixable but I hate to tell you will probably end up paying for the changes again.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    As much as some designers and homeowner's would like animatronic tradespeople, every contractor has an obligation to know how the work he is doing is going to affect other aspects of the job. The guy who laid the 3/4" is on the hook here.

  • 8 years ago

    I'm wondering if the fridge is going to fit if there is a cabinet above it.

  • 8 years ago

    all flooring should run under the cabinets, which eliminates this problem. even if you get everything in, it will be a problem when things need servicing later. I think they need to ratchet and shim, fix the backsplash as needed, and buy you all a really good delivered dinner.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    The simplest, fastest fix is for him to pay for the new dishwasher, especially if you can't return the one you've got. If his work is iffy and he fights for every penny then he can't be trusted to do a careful job with all of the juggling of tops and backsplash and if there's a problem, you don't know when he'll spare the time to come fix it and if he'll do it right. He's getting to the end of this job and he's ready to start the next one. Once he does, he won't have time to fix the details. Have you already paid him all you owe? If not, hold your money back.

    When he offered an upgrade, was it just on one type of tile or was it an offer to use a different tile so he could charge more?

  • 8 years ago

    The range should now be taller then the tops by the same margin. This should have been thought of earlier obviously but now the only realistic this is to have him pull the ops and fix the issue correctly. But be prepared for push back and him to demand to be paid.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    What "ACM" said... why was flooring done after cabinets? Flooring goes first, then cabinets, then counters, and lastly tile

  • 8 years ago

    I'm with millworkman....your range is going to be the biggest issue, unless it's a cooktop and it doesn't matter. I re-read (very quickly) through the post and you didn't mention it, so maybe it's a cooktop. Sorry this happened!

  • 8 years ago

    Why not remove the floor tile and go back to the original plan for vinyl flooring?

  • 8 years ago

    Do you have a signed contract with this contractor? Because that is where I would start. I would never accept this work, not for $35k or for $10k.

  • 8 years ago
    Why would you spend 35k on cabinets and chose vinyl? I think I will by a BMW and put white wall tires on it.
  • 8 years ago

    I think $35k is for the entire kitchen remodel.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Lots of people like and choose vinyl. That has nothing to do with the issue at hand.

  • 8 years ago

    Lot's of people like and choose vinyl. That has nothing to do with the issue at hand.

    This,

  • 8 years ago

    Oh no, no shortcuts. You want standard appliances to fit in there, not specially reworked things. You need to be able to replace appliances down the road with minimal hassle. Plumbers and repair people need to slide them out, too, now and then.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    What ACM said, the floor should be under the cabinets...If the floor comes up the cabinets come up with it. A typical inexperienced mistake by the installer.

    Like Joe suggested just raise base cabinets.

    If you going to raise the cabinets I would suggest using Granite installers, get them back and have them remove the granite and store it properly for the time being while adjustments to the kitchen are being made... Granite packs heavyweight and should be handled properly. Seen not on one occasion where people got hurt or caused property damage handling slabs without proper equipment. Also, slabs should be properly secured for the time being, especially if kids are around...When these slabs go, there is no way of stopping them and serious injury is unavoidable in most cases.

    You should be fine with 17 1/4" between the counter and the uppers, most counter appliances will fit under there without any issues.


  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    This seems such a rookie mistake by your GC. He should be so embarrassed by his own oversight that quibbling over who pays for the expense shouldn't even enter the discussion. I'm sure the tiles were an additional expense and the GC would have made a few extra bucks on the deal. Trying to arrive at work-arounds with the appliances is great to a point if the GC and homeowner can agree, but at some point, when the work-arounds are no longer practical, then the GC should be accepting responsibility. He's just trying to minimize his losses by trying to share the blame as much as he can get away with to make up for his eagerness to upsell you on tile. Manufacturers don't make appliances to size to cover for GC mistakes.