Thermostat Manual.

You can't do that with this thermostat. The mode can be set to Heat or Cool, but not Auto which would run heat or cool as needed.

Here's how I've now set the thermostat:

• The time and date are correct.
• MTWTF: For 5:00 am, 9:30 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: COOL = 90°, HEAT = 82°
• SaSu: For 5:00 am, 10:00 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: COOL = 90°, HEAT is 82°
• PROG switch: RUN
• MODE switch: HEAT
• FAN switch: AUTO

Is this correct?

That should work but is much more complicated than necessary. It'll be a PITA to change the setpoints when/if needed. Instead, set PROG to Off and set the temperature manually. Why bother with programming when you're using the same temperature for all periods. In any case you have to switch manually between heat and cool.

suburbanmd:

In the Owner's Manual:

The "Normal Operation" page is sub-headed "Programmed Operation (program switch RUN)". Associated with that page are seven more pages of "Time Period Programming" (instructions for setting the times and temperatures for the Heat and Cool cycles for the weekdays and for weekends).

I missed the "Normal Operation" page that is sub-headed "Manual Operation". That is the option you are recommending.

As SuburbanMD says above, this thermostat does not support automatic switching between Cool and Heat modes. There are thermostats that can do that but this one can't. Setting both a Cool and Heat temp in the programming does not have it automatically switch modes. You have to manually change the Mode switch to change between cooling and heating operation.

If I set PROG to Off and set the temperature manually, will the thermostat ignore the "Time Period Programming" settings?

Yep. It'll act like a non programmable thermostat.

I'm running the thermostat manually (i.e., the PROG switch is set to "Off") and the "Desired Set" temperature is 82°.

Why is furnace shutting off when the "Current Room" temperature reaches only 76°?

I've had thermostats that seem to be designed to stop calling for heat temporarily while warming up the house. Maybe they do it to avoid overshooting the set point and wasting energy. Is your thermostat still calling for heat when the furnace shuts off? If yes, I think you have a problem. If not, does it call for heat again in a few minutes, and does the room eventually reach the set point? If yes to that, then I wouldn't worry about it.

On my TOTALINE P474-1035 thermostat, I've set the desired temperature at 82° but the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°.

A "Heat/Cool Indicator" light is located between the temperature UP & DOWN buttons. According to the owner's manual, this "Bi-color LED" light "will only energize if the thermostat is system powered". This light stays on (red) even after the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°. My guess is that the light would go out if the room temperature would reach 82°.

Drop the setpoint to 60°F when the system shuts off at 76°F, see if the red light turns off. If not, then it may be a visual indicator of which operating mode is enabled (red = heat, blue = cool?), not an indicator that the system is actively running in said mode.

I'm running the thermostat manually (the MODE switch is "OFF"; PROG switch is "OFF". the HEAT/OFF/COOL switch is at the "HEAT" position and I'm pushing the UP or DOWN arrows to set the "Desired Temperature".

When you say to "Drop the setpoint to 60°F...", are you referring to the "Desired Temperature"? When I drop the "Desired Temperature" to less than 76°F, the "Heat/Cool Indicator" light goes out.

I have to ask why you need to set the temperature at 82 degrees in heat mode, and 90 degrees in cooling mode.

All furnaces have a safety limit switch which prevents them from over heating. I suspect that is what is happening to your furnace. If that is the case you will need to call an HVAC tech to see what can be done.

Any idea how long the furnace ran before it shut down?

When I posted my original question, I had the thermostat running "automatically" (i.e., the PROG switch was at the RUN position) according to the "programmed" settings). At that time, I had set the temperature at 82 degrees in the heat mode and at 90 degrees in the cooling mode.

In subsequent postings, I realized I didn't need the cool mode in the winter so I'm now running the thermostat "manually" (with the PROG
switch at OFF, the MODE switch at HEAT and the "Desired Temperature" at 82°). (I don't think the 90 degrees in cooling mode is operational).

Kind of odd, but it appears this thermostat doesn't have an indicator to show that it's calling for heat or cool.... just an indicator that shows what is selected via the switch [Heat Off Cool]

So it's possible there may be a limiting factor of some kind due to the amount of heat being generated.

There are safety controls that prevent any furnace from getting too hot. This safety device will simply cycle the gas valve off until the furnace cools back down, then as long as the call is still calling from thermostat will restart and run until it gets too hot. The temperature at which these safeties stop the furnace vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

There is a limiting feature on your thermostat that if set at default could limit the cycles to 2 an hour.

With that said, it's not good practice to have a furnace cycling off due to over heating conditions. Over time this will cause additional problems that typically lead to replacement of said equipment.

The first photo shows where each switch is positioned. On the display panel, '82' is the desired temperature and '71' is the
current room temperature. The light between the UP and DOWN arrows is
RED but the furnace is not running.

The second photo is a page in the Owner's Manual. (Because it says the installer should have done this when the thermostat was originally installed, I haven't read it earlier). what does "deadband" mean and how many degrees should it be set at? What should the cycles/per hour be set at?

Ok, this thermostat from Carrier is odd for more reasons than one. (Total Line is Carrier brand parts in case you're wondering.)

The DB or dead band would have to be the difference in temp in the room versus at what point you want the unit to come on and start cooling or heating is my guess because this is either heat or cool stat meaning no auto change over. Usually DB setting is to determine the space between heat and cool settings so the unit doesn't in advertently run heat and cooling at the same time.

Because it's either heat or cool, I think DB would have to be a limit feature of some kind. I would say leave this setting at 1.

If DB is what I think it is in this case: if you set this setting at 2 there would have to be a 2 degree difference from your set point and actual room temp to initiate a call. It may go all the way to your actual set point once it finally runs. This would be more or less a backward way of trying to limit cycles. Because of where this is at in the instructions leads me to this conclusion as well.

If the furnace is cycling off on safety and the thermostat cycles is set at 2, this is probably why the furnace never gets to 82 degrees.

As a test you could set the cycle to 6 to see what it does over the course of a day OR if you have the time to sit there and watch it for an hour count the cycles in which the furnace starts and restarts.

If the furnace is cycling off due to an over heating condition, it is not wise to continue operating it under those conditions.

Deadband to my mind is the differential between heat & cool for auto changeover ... I'm wondering if that's a programming artifact left on this model that has no effect since it doesn't have that function. Cycles per hour would perhaps have an effect on how tight it holds the setpoint (desired temperature).

I doubt it. I suppose this DB setting 'may' do nothing on this particular model. The only way to know for sure would be to set it to 6 set the thermostat to 3-4 degrees higher than room temp and see if the furnace comes on.

If the furnace comes on, then the setting may do nothing.

If it's really cold where the OP lives, cycles per hour definitely could have an impact on reaching desired temperature especially if the furnace is cycling off on over heating safety switch.

I live in Riverside in southern California (midway between Los Angeles and Palm Springs). .

Gary,

For what I have read so far, it appears you have a furnace problem and not a thermostat issue. Are you going to call in a professional to investigate why the furnace is shutting down?

Do you feel cold when the room temperature is at 75 degrees? If you don't have a medical problem, then you may have a lot of air leakage through windows and exterior doors. You should look into that also. Setting the thermostat at 82 degrees is going to consume a lot of fuel. If you can figure out how to be comfortable at 75 degrees by hiring a professional you will save a lot of money ever after paying for the service call.

In July 2003, the furnace was installed.

In April 2011, new dual-pane, Low-E glass windows and sliding doors were installed

In July 2011, the A/C was installed

In January 2015, all new ductwork was installed.Every time I've called in a professional to service my furnace and/or A/C, they always say that I need to replace the equipment at the cost is thousands of $$$.

Your settings aren't so strange, considering the warm climate where you live. I'm wondering if furnaces are common there, and if HVAC techs know how to work on them.

I've been in homes where customer(s) don't run AC that much because of operational costs and an old AC. They get accustomed to a higher temperature due to the climate. For my tastes 82 is too warm, but heating and cooling is for comfort... so whatever makes you comfortable is always my goal.

Gary, you may have had issues with your system that required the work that previous professionals got you to take on. With that said, there are companies who put pressure on Technicians to sell. Repairs are often frowned upon with bigger companies. In some cases the bigger companies will merely look like repair people when in fact they are salesmen.

Your area may be hard to find a working HVAC contractor like myself. We are a dying breed. The bigger companies many times throw out cheap offers up to an including free service to one degree or another. It makes the HVAC contractor who charges a fee to come out appear to be a rip off. It's a convoluted cycle, to say the least.

So people are attracted to the cheap offer in droves and then due to the salesman training and the look of a 'technician' they gain your trust and sell you things every time you call. It's the only way they remain in business. They only pay the technician to sell. If the technician doesn't sell, they aren't there for long. The thought that a technician is a salary or hourly employee is fiction. For the simple reason there is no supervision, the motivation for money is the only supervision there is.

Problem with that business model is service is fleeting and offers to repair aren't all that common. But the lure of the cheap service price is a big hurdle to get over and in some cases the service price is a normal price... so in today's world you really have to do your home work as to who you invite into your home.