My concern would be water on wax. Then, any type of cleaning supply would remove that layer, too.
If you can find something that doesn't react or isn't removed by daily life, I'd be interested, too!

Not sure if it's the look you're after, but Florida_Joshua tested various finishes a few years ago. Unfortunately, his pictures are no longer available. I'll link to the thread, but I don't know how useful it is without the pictures...which brings up...

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Florida_Joshua, Florida_Mimi, or anyone with Joshua's pictures from the thread below, could you please post/re-post them on his thread??

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Thread:

What keeps soapstone darker longer. . .The answer! ! !

• http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2695199/what-keeps-soapstone-darker-longer-the-answer

Nice kitchen! I have stormy black (80 grit) and prefer the bee's wax, which I also use on cutting boards. I find it lasts longer but takes more work to spread thin and buff than mineral oil. It stays dark longest next to the stove from cooking oils but also gets no direct sunlight. A section that is rarely worked on but in the sunlight fades quickest. I love the dark look but also like the 'worn' look of the island when the wax has faded. Where I open the wine bottles or dragged stoneware... then randomly I will wax and all those marks dissappear and it looks like a new countertop again. I don't get watermarks with or without the wax though. Options!

Does anyone have a recommendation to purchase The Real Milk Paint Co. Sopastone Wax or Dorado Wax?

I have used the Real Milk Paint Co. Soapstone wax. Far superior and lasts longer than mineral oil and no residue like I had with beeswax. I have soapstone throughout my kitchen and it is heavily used (and extensively "patina-ed").

I use this- Howard Butcher Block Conditioner

"

• The penetrating quality of food grade mineral oil along with the water-resistant traits of bees wax and carnauba wax rejuvenates the wood and prevents drying and cracking"

Readily available at your local stores.

Beautiful kitchen counters! My collection before soapstone started darkening. I like the salad bowl one the best as it gives the soft matte finish. It lasts a fairly long time IIRC

Christine I want to see your sink and countertops!!

I have ordered wax/oil product. I will post photos of before and after soon. Fingers Xd! Thanks for everyone's help :)

A silicone compound called "siloxane" is what you're talking about. Better test in an inconspicuous area to see how it reacts to whatever has already been applied. Personally I'm a fan of beeswax.

this is Mimi- Holland Bowl Mill's Bee's Wax is what we also recommended as a better value alternative to the Claphams. (I love the Claphams and still have some for personal use but no longer sell it) I tried to find the pictures Josh took 10 years ago for the side by side comps and sadly could not find them in our archived photos. Keep in mind that different soapstone quarries talc content will vary and can affect how quickly the stone patina's/"holds" the oil.

I wonder if you could use Rubio Monocoat? It's a 0 VOC wood-flooring finish that doesn't have much more in it than (food-grade!) bees wax and linseed oil. I have some, and I have a 1' x 2' slab of soapstone, so I could try it out for you if that helps.

Probably not a good idea...

http://www.healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2017/61798r-eng.php#affected-touches

Product description

This recall involves Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C. The product is a linseed oil-based stain.

Hazard identified

The recalled product does not have proper hazard labelling required by the Consumer Chemicals and Containers Regulations, 2001 under the Canada Consumer Product Safety Act (CCPSA).

The product contains linseed oil which can undergo spontaneous heating, leading to ignition of the product. The lack of the required warnings could lead to improper use of the product and present a flammability hazard leading to serious injury or fire.

Materials used with the product, such as rags, may spontaneously self-ignite, even with no source of ignition like a spark or flame.

As of January 3, 2017, the company has received two report(s) in Canada of spontaneous combustion, and no report(s) of injuries.

I purchased Dorado's Dry Wax. I hope this does the trick and will post before and after photos. I am a bit tense regarding the color change, since there is quite a bit of soapstone in my kitchen. My hope is that it will pay off in exchange for my annoyance with water spots and grease stains. I live with four vikings so we are hardly careful around our counters. I really appreciate everyone's input, thanks so much.

Re ignition of Monocoat. That refers to RAGS soaked in linseed oil. I don't see how floors or countertops for that matter that have been treated with the product would self ignite once they've properly dried. Same hazard as with wood stains.

I use the Clapham's and have been happy with it.

" ksc36

Probably not a good idea...

http://www.healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2017/61798r-eng.php#affected-touches

Product description

This recall involves Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C. The product is a linseed oil-based stain.

Hazard identified

The recalled product does not have proper hazard labelling required by the Consumer Chemicals and Containers Regulations, 2001 under the Canada Consumer Product Safety Act (CCPSA)."

That's a bit misleading, as it was a labelling issue and has already been corrected, and if used properly, as nosoccermom points out, Rubio Monocoat is safe to use indoors.

Real linseed oil is the gold standard for hard natural finishes. They say the great paintings of the renaissance are still drying, and they're right. When linseed oil is fully dry is becomes a substance similar to the stone Amber. Tree phenol based compounds harden into stone. Don't let Canada beuracracy get in the way of a masterpiece. Your countertop is not going to catch on fire.

Much has changed in the market with soapstone. There are more "varieties", which have more or less talc in them, and not to mention some "soapstones" are not even really considered soapstone. This all adds to how oil and wax products interact with the stone you choose. Typically I recommend products that breath and do not form a film that is terrible to get off. . . These products limit how you will interact with soapstone over a longer period. Bee's wax and mineral oil wear off the stone allowing you to form a patina over time. Sealers and other products tend to build up a film over a period of time, and trust me I've had to refinish tons of countertops because of this. In my humble opinion, soapstone is soapstone, enjoy the process of the patina, stick with mineral oil and bee's wax products. . . Do this and you will have a much easier time fixing any problem areas.

@florida_joshua - I have Ipanema Soapstone ... not sure where this falls in the category of more or less talc and how it will take to a dry wax?

My guess would be oil will flash off quite fast the first 2-3 months. Just enjoy the process, oil or wax when you want to. Don’t let it tell you when to oil, do it when you want to and enjoy the process. Just wash off any marks with soap and water before you oil and your good to go.

florida_joshua

Please help! My counters look awful. They are soapstone, they were installed in 2010. I don't know what to do, every time I try to sand or buff it doesn't help. I need to do something for them. Can you help me?

can you send us a picture of your countertops and do you know what quarry they are from? This is Mimi- Josh's wife.

I use Real Milk Paint Soapstone Sealer and Wood Wax on our soapstone. Researched and discovered it on GW/Houzz thread. Even the fabricator was impressed with it versus what they were using.