an experiment is never a waste of time ...

have you ever look into Dirr's propagation of woody plants??? .. maybe you could get a copy thru your local library ...

ken

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Dirrs+propagation+of+woody+plants&t=ffcm&ia=products

Yes, many do. You will need proper propagation facilities.

Ok I will try then. Can I start taking cuttings now or do I have to wait until next summer?

Have you ever successfully rooted anything yet? Just my opinion, but I'd highly recommend starting with Thuja, Tsuga, Cryptomeria, Chamaecyparis, Juniper, or something else that gives you good odds of striking. Spruce, with a few exceptions is not easy. I've successfully rooted all of the other species I mentioned, but never been able to root Spruce or Abies. I have a pretty good setup to, with heat and daily mist and humidity dome.

If you have ample Scion wood, then it's worth a shot...but if the supply is limited, don't bother. If you do try, take Ken's advise and read Dirr's manual. I think he actually has different recommendations depending on the type of spruce. Both on best timing and rooting hormone

All I have rooted so far are sedums... Im actually going to take cuttings off of my chamaecyparis obtusa next week. But I also want to do my spruce too but kinda have my doubts now.. What spruce have you tried to propagate from cuttings? I think rooting difficulty also depends on the species of the spruce

I should have said I have tried rooting all of those genus. Yes, within the Picea genus, each species has different levels of difficulty in terms of rooting success. Picea glauca 'Conica' is an example of one specific cultivar that is really easy to root. This is most likely due to the Juvenal foliage. I have tried Picea abies 'Gold Drift', only because I ran out of understock to graft it too, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I also tried quite a few Abies numidica, but also got no takes on those either.

If you have the extra scions, it's worth a shot, but it's most efficient to graft Picea and Abies. I find Abies to be very easy to graft, really high % takes. Picea is my most difficult to graft, I think it's because it's more rigid and less sappy, so any imperfections in the cut will lead to the scion drying out and dying.

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Lemon Twist' was one of the easiest I have ever rooted. I didn't even plan on rooting it, a rabbit bit off a couple pieces, but didn't like the taste. I found them on the ground, no idea how long they had been there...figured what the hell... dipped them in rooting hormone. 50/50 peat perlite and a few weeks later both pieces were callused and starting to root.

I know, you said that you rooted all those genuses you listed. But have you ever tried rooting picea jezoensis though?

So picea is both difficult to root from cuttings and graft.. Then would seed growing be the only way? Probably not even because they will hybridize with other surrounding spruces..

It's not hard for good grafters, I'm just a hobby grafters. Grafting in the Northeast is a lot harder than in the PNW where the majority of conifers are grown. Out there, they can keep the plants outside or in unheated greenhouse. Here, it has to be done in a heated greenhouse, garage, basement, or sunroom.

Even with those challenges, I still get over 50% success on Picea. Pro's out west probably get 85%+.

I have never tried jezoensis. I don't have the plant. I just checked Dirr's manual, and they only list seed germination for that species, not cuttings instructions mentioned. However, that's probably due to the fact it's a less common species, rather than an indication that it cannot be rooted.

If it's not a cultivar, seed makes the most sense. I guess it could hybridize, but who would know... Only a handful of people could possibly tell after a close study, especially of cones. More than likely, it would take an expensive tissue sample to really confirm

Yea I actually have 3 grafted picea jezoensis subsp. hondoensis I bought from a guy I know. Most of his stock are grafted so I think he is an expert.

Ok either ways, I'll never know for sure unless I spend big bucks on which I probably don't think its worth.

But you said it has to be done in a heated greenhouse, garage, basement, or sunroom. I am planning on taking cuttings off my chamaecyparis obtusa next week and sticking them in a tray of peat and perlite(individual slots). Would a room with bright light but indirect sunlight be a good spot to put the tray of hinoki cuttings on? Or does it have to be in absolute shade?

Mine are in a 4 season sunroom facing south, so they get a lot of sun, never had an issue. The room gets so much sun, I successfully grafted my first year without any supplimental light source. I now use T5 overhead lights, which helps

Ok and just one more question, I have a plastic container that I will use to cover the tray for increased humidity. How often should I cover it and how long? I am working 5 days a week and out of the house for about 10 hours during those 5 days so I'm wondering how I can do it without giving it too much humidity

I also use a plastic container as a dome, I usually take the dome off once a day for a few minutes. I do that more because the heat will build up in there, but it also gives me a chance to add fresh air, and water as needed. Try to keep the media moist, but not wet. Usually a spray bottle is preferred, so you can lightly mist daily or every other depending on conditions. Also, once you see roots striking, turn off the heat mat. Good luck. Post back if you have success

Ok but in my other thread, didn't you say conifer cuttings like warm feet and cool heads?

Yes, to trigger the cutting to callus and subsequently root, but once a visible white root is pushing the heat mat isn't needed anymore... you can leave it on if you want, but it's unnecessary.

Hey sorry.. I got one more question. Do you know how long after taking the cuttings I can have it out until I stick it into soil? Can I keep them out for 12 hours with no issues?