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esk8mw

MCM Remodel - Need Window Help

8 years ago

I'm starting to gut remodel a mid-century modern house in the Chicago suburbs and all this window stuff has my head spinning. Hoping someone can help me out!

It's a pretty big house (~6k sqft) and has 27 openings to fill, 11 of which are 8' sliders, 4 floor to ceiling 3.5' windows, rest are mostly double casement types. 11 sliders seems a bit much so we plan to convert 4 of the openings into picture/casement combos or something similar. So, 7 8' sliders and 20 openings, some of which are pretty big to fill.

Our style is clean lines and simple. My vision is black/black windows, drywall returns (no casing) and just a sill, possibly in marble or similar. I'd like the frames to be as thin as possible (without killing performance, it's freezing here) and to disappear visually. I have many questions!

  1. Our outside walls are 2x4 and the contractor says since existing windows are flush with the drywall, we may not be able to get drywall returns. He says we will need "new construction" windows instead of replacements (whatever that means) and even then, might not be able to get returns with some manufacturers unless we build out the walls with furring strips. Assuming this is the case, is anyone aware of which manufacturers might be "out" on this criteria? I'm assuming he means some windows are simply built too "thick" for this application?
  2. Are marble/stone sills doable or advisable? I've hated my current wood windows and sills with a passion due to upkeep and rotting, broken seals etc. so I was hoping stone might mitigate this issue?
  3. Are black/black windows truly more expensive than white, even if the line carries black as a non-custom option? Heard this a few places and it doesn't make logical sense to me. If yes, what's the general upcharge?
  4. What windows should I be looking at? I'm looking to minimize costs here if possible, understanding that this will be costly overall. Basically, the lowest cost option I can get away with without sacrificing too much the look, feel or performance I need given the climate and character/cost of the house. Seems like vinyl should be out? Happy to be corrected on that. Can't use aluminum (my preferred choice) because of thermal performance/condensation, right? Based on what I've read, seems like Marvin Ultrex/wood might fit the bill, but it doesn't come in black/black right? And all Ultrex might not look good enough? I've read good things about Milgard fiberglass, but can I even get those in Chicago? Contractor is suggesting Marvin or Anderson wood clad aluminum but not sure if this will break the bank. Feeling lost!

Any and all help greatly appreciated!

Comments (9)

  • 8 years ago

    Thanks! To answer your question on exterior, it's actually up in the air right now, but assume some windows will be in a stacked natural stone/mortar exterior, some in a hardwood (like ipe) rainscreen siding and some in an EFIS/stucco-like exterior. Does any of this change your answer on getting those returns? And if replacements are 3.25" how thick are new construction windows generally?

    Re: stone sills, is the cold issue more of a comfort thing or a performance/efficiency issue? Former I might be able to live with, latter would have me reconsidering.

    On the black upcharge, I was actually referring to the upcharge to the consumer, not the mfg cost. I'm quite confident a different paint color costs the mfg nothing more when offered as a standard non-custom option! But I've heard the additional cost to consumer (all that matters as you correctly noted) is around 40% and I was wondering if it's really that bad.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    In a new construction format, even 2x4 wall, you will have about a 2" jamb extension around the window to equal out to about 4 9/16 total wall depth. When the window is installed via flange, it is slightly offset to the outside and the total depth inside the 2x4 wall is about 2 1/4 (give or take). With the thickness of the drywall, you have about a 2" total jamb which is more than enough to mount blinds if you do it properly.


    My objection to the stone is for cold. Nothing fundamentally wrong with it besides being big thermal mass conduits.

    I don't think you know until you quote them out. That said, I do not normally see a 40% premium or anything close to that over a painted window to a painted black window. There is a legitimate reasoning for the black paint being a bit more expensive, but I think you should get some quotes before you guess about what the premium will be.

    esk8mw thanked Windows on Washington Ltd
  • 8 years ago

    BTW, I just talked to someone at Marvin and determined that black/black WILL be a standard option on the Integrity line by end of Feb, but ONLY for the all ultrex line.

    Bummer. Is the all ultrex line really that bad? Based on your advice I'm likely to go with solid walnut sills (to match floors) instead of stone and no casing (drywall returns TBD). Would it look terrible to use black ultrex on the interior with a stained walnut sill?

  • PRO
    8 years ago
    The Marvin Integrity All Ultrex series is a great window. We've sold and installed many of these since they first came to the market. I am excited for the new black/black and bronze/bronze coming at the end of Feb. They can be ordered with sheetrock returns as well. You will appreciate the sleek lines of the finished product.

    With regards to the walnut and black together, I feel this can be successful if you take into account color choices throughout the space.

    Good luck with your project.
  • 8 years ago

    So, some quotes starting to roll in. They feel a bit all over the map.

    One thing that feels odd is that one company's Anderson E Series came in about the same as another company's Marvin Integrity Wood/Ultrex. Actually, the E Series is priced a bit lower AND comes primed, whereas integity has bare wood. These are materials only quotes.

    Isn't E Series generally a better product that Integrity (competing in the Marvin Ultimate Space)?

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    It is common to see those price differences. Cost of the Windows can vary quite a bit even from dealer to dealer and profit margins can vary quite a bit as well.

    Not sure if the E-series is better , I'd say just different.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Seeing as you are in a colder climate and you are doing a complete re-model (I assume removing drywall or plaster?) something that I have done is strap 2"X2" to the studs on the inside of all exterior 2X4 Walls. This is actually part of the building code here in Calgary but it allows for much better insulation as you now have 2X6 walls and you would have much better options for windows.

  • 6 years ago

    Just curious what option did you find that was most cost, aesthetics and quality window ? I am in the middle of midcentury modern reno in Chicago suburbs as well, and I cant find any good options, or solutions to save the existing windows without compromising the integrity of mcm architecture. Thank you

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