I'm not totally sure what you're asking, but if you want switched AND constant power at receptacles, then you need 14/3 cables not just 14/2.

In each cable, you will have 1 white for the neutral, 1 black for the constant hot and 1 red for the switched hot. Plus the bare ground.

I know how to do that by breaking the brass tab on each one as long as they are in the same run.

While breaking the brass tab is PART of the process of splitting the receptacle into half constant and half switched, it isn't the only thing you need to do. The wiring has to support the setup as well.

Thanks Greg, the wire is 12/2 so it looks like I can't make them half constant and half switched. Glad I posted before I started breaking tabs and really screwed things up.

If all of the wiring is exposed and not hidden behind walls, then it isn't hard to replace it. We could help you to get it all wired correctly. But obviously it's more expensive and maybe not worth it, but that's your call.

You could also run an additional 12/2 or 14/2 for the constant power outlets so you wouldn't have to scrap the current 12/2. It won't be as clean or as cost effective as going 12/3 or 14/3 to begin with, but it will work. If you plan to run some heavier equipment, I would recommend putting the constant power outlets on a separate circuit/breaker so you have lights to turn the breaker back on if it pops.

Since you need to run an additional line anyway, its probably just as easy to run new 12/2 on a new breaker, and use it to power new always-on receptacles. That give you a full 20 amps for the new circuit. Use the existing 14/2 for the lights, since they are a lower current draw.

Now to add one complication, if you want to comply with current code. Based on the 2008 NEC code, all garage receptacles (including ceiling) need to be protected by a GFCI, and a "GFCI shall be installed in a readily accessible location," which usually means below about 6 feet in height. I chose to install one receptacle on the new circuit at wall switch height, and then ran the wiring from there up to the ceiling receptacles so they were all protected. You could also use a GFCI breaker, but they are significantly more expensive.

Bruce

A couple of thoughts here.

First, your photo shows a code violation. The NM cable shouldn't be hanging in open air like that. Code requires NM in garages to follow the existing building timbers, or to be fastened (probably stapled) to an added running board. I use 1x3s for running boards. A 1x2 would probably be OK too, I just think they're too flimsy.

Second, I don't want to insult or offend you, but the statement "I know how to do that by breaking the brass tab on each one as long as they are in the same run" concerns me. Greg had to remind you that you needed another power source. I hope that's just a little absent-mindedness and doesn't indicate a somewhat weak understanding of electrical circuits.

If you have any doubt at all about how or why the supplemental or replacement run is necessary, please either spend some time reading up on basic electricity before you forge ahead on this project, or call in a pro.

And please fix that violation, too.

End of lecture. :)

Also, if you're going to have a second circuit, doesn't the neutral tab also have to be broken and the two neutral screws separately connected?

Yes if you run a second circuit from a new breaker then you need to break both tabs.