That looks a lot bigger than 14", but I dont know exactly how how lvl beams work, but that looks huge. Above is mine, which I think is 12". I think your architect has to deal with this. That is not something you work around in gut reno. You need a better result to justify all the other costs. Can you post a floor plan of the entire area? I'm a little confused as to how things are oriented. How old is your house and is it a standard frame house?

Talk to your architect. Smaller steel can likely replace larger wood. You’ll need a new design, and a new stamp, and a new inspection. You may or may not need to re permit. Spend more money, and all of that can happen.

It sounds like the architect had this as a choice , what was the other choice? This was an outside wall before obviously supporting another floor above it , I think your architect needed to talk to an engineer about the options and then should have presented those to you. This for sure cannot be answered here.

Here is a pic of the lay out of the kitchen and dining room and measurements. Plus some more photos.

So is it best I just stop everything and bring in another architect or engineer?

Go back to your architect. His name is on the job and engineering. Is he not assisting you with some construction oversight on this job?

The architect is unreliable and just a pain in the ass. I have called a new architect for a consultation.

Expect to pay double then. Or more. No one will step in in the middle of a job and assume responsibility for it without redoing all of the work associated with it in order to be able to certify everything. And you will need to go back to your city because the original diagrams will no longer be valid.

I have a similar problem with a kitchen beam, only mine involves spanning the stem wall and existing pier since we can’t drill a new pier that was specified. I had to hire a new structural engineer. My architect isn’t a pain in the ass, but he doesn’t do the structural work (specific license and insurance for engineering). In my case, the new engineer was able to write a permit addendum, which is common with remodels since surprises happen. You probably don’t need a new architect, just an engineer. In my neck of the woods, that beam hangs too low to pass code, so it will have to be re-engineered. Also, if they replace the beam with steel, keep in mind that it’s more costly to install and work with than glue lam or other engineered wood beams. Also, it has to be custom fabricated and shipped, likely increasing the time you have to wait for it.

A good structural engineer will come out to the site, take plenty of measurements and photos and notes, take copies of your existing plans and calcs and charge you just for the work that needs to be redone. Do not work with an engineer who refuses to come out or that tells a contractor to submit what they want and they’ll draw it. Good luck.

Thanks Heather I appreciate the info. Now time to find a structural engineer! Anybody know any in Northern New Jersey?

https://www.thomasnet.com/northern-new-jersey/structural-engineering-services-26222406-1.html

I was thinking the same as Heather. I don't know how clearance that low would pass building code.

Could you just build a box around the pipes and do it equal on each side of the large center beam? It would stick out, but at least it would be even on both sides of the ceiling beam, and equal on each side of the window 'so to speak'. You can decorate around that kind of stuff.....

Architect, schmarchhitect. He was too lazy to look up a span chart so he over-specified to save his own behind. Any carpenter who can read a span chart can figure this one out.

Amen to that .

Hi, what did you end up doing with this? I have a similar design issue. 8ft ceilings and knocked down a wall but left with a load bearing beam that makes the clearance 7ft. Do you have pictures? Just hoping to see how you designed. I’m hoping with furnitures it won’t look so bad.