Belt and suspenders both.

Check your gutters make sure they clean and the runoff takes the water away from the foundation.

Make sure your grade is sloped away and not back-pitched and water is diverted away from the foundation instead of collecting there.

That pretty much should solve your water issue in that corner if everything else in the basement looks dry.

What GN said.

Rain gutters have to be cleaned at least twice a year.

You also have to make sure that the downspouts drain properly away from the foundation. Watch out for blocked underground downspout drains.

Ensure that your lawn slopes away from the foundation so water doesn't pool there.

Even with free-flowing gutters and properly pitched grade, you can still get cellar seepage (or worse) when the rains just won't quit and the ground becomes saturated. The hydraulic pressure behind your cellar walls in such conditions is remarkable. I've seen water literally spraying from a tiny crack in a poured concrete cellar wall.

Cinderblock is even worse, because it's actually water-permeable. But hey, it holds the house up, and it's relatively cheap.

So your first line of defense is proper EXTERNAL waterproofing of the cellar walls. This means application of a polymer-based sealer, and possibly a sheet or board type solid barrier. This directs the water toward the footer, where drainage tiles collect it and move it to the sump.

Those footer drain tiles also have to be kept clear. Silt buildup and mechanical failure aren't at all uncommon, especially in older homes (really old homes often don't have footer drains at all).

On existing construction, this kind of waterproofing entails trenching around the foundation. That's expensive and disruptive, which makes the heavily advertised interior cellar "waterproofing" sound really appealing.

I put waterproofing in quotation marks above because interior "waterproofing" is really more like interior water management. The idea is not to actually keep the water out, but rather to intercept it as it enters, and channel it to a sump where it can be disposed of away from the house. I've lived in houses that have had this treatment, and I'll tell you right now that while it's usually better than nothing, it's no match for the real thing.

So I wouldn't bother with interior "waterproofing." if attention to your rain gutters and lot grade don't do the job, you're probably looking at excavation and exterior waterproofing with proper footer drains. Done right, and combined with clean gutters, that should give you a dry cellar.

I 100% agree with GN Builders and DavidR.

Don't waste your money on interior waterproofing measures unless you cannot afford anything else. It will usually just move the leak or only stop it for a year or 2. Even if it appears to be working the moisture is still getting into the foundation wall and deteriorating it.

thanks very much everyone. really appreciated. I will do more understanding for your comments and let you know if I have more questions.