Can you define what you imagine a "proper crape myrtle" to be? If you imagine a single trunked 'tree', then this is not going to be the specimen for you. Most are multi-trunked large shrubs that can be encouraged into a tree-like form to show off their exfoliating bark.

I also wouldn't be overly concerned about its proximity to the foundation. If the foundation is structurally sound, tree roots - even aggressive ones (which the crape is not) - will not bother a foundation.

Several (4-5) trunks in varying directions growing from a single general area to create a vase shape. If you look at the first picture to me it seems like there were several established trunks of an original tree on the left that got crowded by new growth that was never trimmed back on the right and created the tangled mess. And over time they were all top chopped. I'm really trying to figure out the next step of pruning if it stays where it is as far as which trunks should go if any and what to prune off the keepers.

On a non-serious note I did ponder if I could put a ratchet strap around the main trunks and pull them closer together over time and tie some overlapping branches together to fuse like a larger freestyle bonsai.

I don't really want one in the back yard. I would move this monster to the back only because it would be easier to move it than try to turn the area in the back that is landscaped into grass. There was a trampoline there and now it's gone. Empty space of stone edging leaves and pine needles. I would then get a healthy, young tree to properly prune to take its place in the front.

This poor crape has been through a lot, but they’re extremely tough and resilient. It certainly will look better when it leafs out and starts flowering ... but if you don’t want it there, then yes, move it. And then leave it alone and let it do it’s thing.

There’s no “fixing” crape murder, but it can still be lovely and valuable, and will look better each year of not overpruning.

They can suffer quite a bit of shock after transplanting (especially ones this mature), so don’t expect otherwise if you do that. It may take a growing season to recover. And get ready to dig a very large hole!

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“On a non-serious note I did ponder if I could put a ratchet strap around the main trunks and pull them closer together over time and tie some overlapping branches together to fuse like a larger freestyle bonsai.”

No, no, no. Not a good idea. Naturally occurring fused branches are fine, I’ve had several do that with no issues (30 yrs of growing them), but don’t try to force that, please. :) It’s been stressed enough.

Digging it out woyld be WAY more effort than going to the big box store and spending $20 on a new one. Trust me, I goofed and moved one, once. It survived btw, but never again!

Where are you located geographically?

Here crapes die back frequently and leave a bush of live and dead trunks. 5 of 6 years mine are effectively perrenials like Hostas. The dead wood helps start late May bonfires.

the base problem.. is that .. as a babe.. it was planted for the size of the plant at point of sale ... with no real concept of its future potential ...

once it stated growing.. 1 or 2 feet from the foundation .. there was no choice as to pruning ... but crape murder ...

its simply to big a plant.. for where it is planted ...

sometimes its easier to cut bait ... and start over ... and either plant it a bit further away ... OR ... buy a plant with smaller potential ... OR ... properly prune it every other year or two ...

on the other hand ... [its never simple... lol] ... and do understand i have never had a CM up here in MI ... so i will defer if i am way off base ... you might try hardcore renovation ... go in there and remove the largest 1/3 of the trunks ... trying to get it to resprout way down low ... next year ... take the second third ... etc ...

inside 3 years .. you will have refreshed the whole plant.. to new vital growth .. which you can train properly over the years .. [until you move and leave this nightmare for the next peep .. lol] .. upside here .. you learn a lot about pruning ... downside ... its right in front of the house .. perhaps not the best place for such an experiment ...

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=renovation+pruning+of+crape+&t=ffcm&ia=web

when i bought my first house.. there was a slew of 40 year plus shrubs... and i wanted to save them .. for the history of the house ... 5 years later i removed the last nightmare ... one of the happiest garden days in that garden ... pshaw on house history .... after all.. i didnt keep the paisley 3 inch shag rugs either.. lol ...

https://flashbak.com/selling-harvest-gold-shag-carpet-ads-from-the-1960s-1970s-385094/

play around.. learn to prune.. but keep it in mind.. that removal might be the best answer ... of course.. if you are an instant gratification type.. just do it now ...

ken

I'm in zone 7a, Piedmont North Carolina. I'm beginning to lean towards removal. This is my first house and there is so much I'm having to redo the correct way inside and out because the previous owners were "Pinterest DIY" junkies.

I don't have 3 years to hope I can revive this crepe myrtle into something beautiful. If I'm still here in 4 years something in my life went terribly wrong.

Below is what I'm working with. On the right there's a "Koi pond" that has lilies, dead lily leftovers and a bunch of algae, totally different project. Then two unknown bushes that flower. Help identifying would appreciated. Then the crape myrtle.

I was raised a gardener, not a landscaper. I don't like taking care of plants I can't eat. I plan to dig out everything that isn't the two bushes and maybe the crape myrtle. Fill back in with dirt, cover with weed barrier and mulch. Directly in front of the "Koi pond" will be grassed. Any plant additions behind will be edibles in pots, think edible landscape.

If I were to remove the crepe myrtle what would be something viable taking its place? I'm not against pruning and general maintenance. I don't want anything I'd have to baby.

Hmm. Birds like to nest in the fake ferns the previous owners put hanging from the porch. Maybe a bird bath and feeder.

Crape Murder! · More Info

Others can advise on plant placing, I just want to say established crapes don’t have to be babied at all. I think you’re overthinking it a lot. It’s been butchered, yes, but it can still be a beautiful plant. It doesn’t need more pruning, hardcore renovation, or years worth of trying to change it. It’s fine to just leave be (or move and leave be). It looks bad right now because the butchering of it is so visible in its bare state ... it will look completely different this summer. Crapes are very easy keepers in the right spots.

That said, if you don’t like it, you don’t like it, and would probably be happier taking it out. And if you aren’t sure, concentrate on the other things and see what you think about it after a blooming season. Summer growth will give you a good idea of liking or not liking it there.

I strongly advise removing it. One very nice aspect of a properly pruned Crapemyrtle is its winter beauty. The smooth, muscular branches can be stunning all winter long, like a piece of natural sculpture.

That effect is destroyed as soon as the tree is topped, cropped, or chopped.

Why keep something that hurts your feelings every time you look at it? Spend a bit of time researching named cultivars and their descriptions. The National Arboretum Crapemyrtle list of introductions is a good place to start.

Crapes grow pretty fast; don't be tempted to buy a big one. Try to find one that hasn't been topped by the grower or nursery. When you get it home, you can do some thinning but no tip pruning. Thinning opens the canopy, eliminates crossing and inward growing branches, allows for improved sunlight penetration, etc.

I prefer the multi-trunked specimens for aesthetic reasons, what about you?

Miz_G you're right. I am overthinking it like I do everything. It was very pretty when we moved in because I didn't know anything about it and couldn't see the murder. I'm looking at it as pure aesthetic for resale. Who know's the time of year the house will be looked at.

So in that respect I think I'll keep it, prune it how I think it should be and see how it looks this spring.

I really should concentrate on everything esle. Especially the "Koi pond" which the previous owners thought the Koi were still hibernating in April when in fact they were eaten by a large cat I've seen coming to check it out quite a bit. Now it's home to a large frog.

BUT, rhizo_1 gave a good case for removal. Start fresh and I know the new crape myrtle will be treated right. I'll give it this blooming season and see how it does.

flying, when we purchased our present home there were three very undesirable (to us, both are horticultural and arboricultural specialists), trees. Two were the dreaded Bradfords and the other a horrible looking dogwood. We loved the neighborhood, loved the house, and didn't give a moment's thought to the ugly trees.

We had those trees erased from that landscape within a few days of moving in, lol. I would do the same thing with your butchered crape. But it wouldn't stop me from buying.....so rest easy.

One thing to consider; if you remove that crepe myrtle and replant, it will be years before the new plant will provide the flowers that one does. I live in an addition that is a bout 10 year old. Most of the crepe myrtle, while having flowers, none have the flowers of that plant.

Most people do not realize that a crepe myrtle is a slow growing tree, and will grow large. There is one beside our church that is nearly 30 feet tall. I have see others in the area of equal size and many in the 20' range.

It you try to keep it as a bush, you are going to get what you call crepe murder.

There are many varieties of crapes — tree forms, shrubs, mini-weepers, dwarf. Not all are tree size. Clearly, the one in the OP’s yard is a large variety (and unfortunately the previous owners didn’t make a good choice planting it there), but not all are the same.

And transplanting alone doesn’t result in years of no flowers. I have had many bloom the same season I transplanted them, some didn’t. It depends on the variety, time of year, extent of transplant shock, and in some cases, the amount of sun they’re getting.

"Fill back in with dirt, cover with weed barrier and mulch."

If you don't want to fuss with this area, don't put down landscape fabric as a weed barrier. Plant shrubs that will remain relatively small so you don't have to prune and groundcover (both chosen to suit the site as far as space and light needs) and then mulch well while the groundcover fills in. Put in a ground level edging to keep the grass out. Add mulch if needed in future years and weed for 10 minutes a month. Landscape fabric doesn't prevent weeds and it makes weeding more difficult when roots grow into it as well as interfering with water, air, and nutrient movement so the shrubs won't be healthy.

I am another vote for removing rather than trying to rescue that crape myrtle. For the back yard, if you aren't looking for a tree in that spot, don't put one there. Your use of the yard doesn't need to be dictated by the previous owners' mistakes. Figure out how deep the sand is and either turn it in along with lots of organic matter and plant to grass or edibles or whatever, or remove some of the sand if it's too deep either scattering it around the yard or using it for helping to fill holes or advertising as free fill for anyone who wants to come get it.

Sorry to bump...

Ken gets to the heart of the matter that this was too big a cultivar planted too close to the house; in addition to it having been 'crape murdered'.

They are so cheap, and so readily available...and I disagree with krnuttle; they are actually pretty fast growing plants in the grand scheme of things. Maybe I just spend a lot of time with plants that are really trees, but take many years to become them. (larger growing elepidote rhododendrons; I have a 'Mt. Siga' that is a only 3' after almost 10 years; yet I have seen one of Gable's original Mt. Sigas in SE PA that must be 12')

Wait until it leafs out; cut it as close to the ground as possible with a chain saw, and paint the surfaces with undiluted glyphosate or triclopyr, to quickly finish it off. (or cover with something impervious if you prefer a herbicide free approach) Plant a new, slower growing SHRUB, farther out in this "foundation" planting bed. Which could mean one of the SHRUBBY cultivars of Crape Myrtle.