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fennel94

Fiddle-leaf fig repotting questions.

8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

Hi everyone,


I have a fiddle-leaf fig that wants a new pot. (A few roots were already creeping under and over the pot when I got it 6 months ago and a few more have crept out since.)


This is my first plant ever, and it's stayed sublimely healthy and green so far, which makes me all the more anxious I'm about to kill something beautiful with my inexperience when I repot it.


From reading the forums I've gathered:

  • It's best to repot it in early summer.
  • It needs fast draining soil no matter what and likes low nutrient content like in the gritty mix.
  • I have to keep the fine roots wet during repotting.
  • It shouldn't be fertilised again until it starts new growth.
  • It's good to trim the roots 30% or more.


However, I still have some newbie questions.

  • I live in zone 10b (Malibu, USA). Should I still wait until June to repot it? I'm getting antsy to do it with roots having stuck out for so long. I'm also anxious to separate a baby tree growing out the side that is not doing as well as the main tree. The baby tree recently pushed out a leaf that didn't unfurl all the way followed by a leaf that was very oedemic. I don't know whether the old soil is a factor in this but either way I'm sure it doesn't like being on the main tree's watering plan and shrouded from light by the main tree's leaves.
  • The soil. This is my biggest question. I understand gritty mix would give my tree the most potential but I highly dislike the idea of completely depending on plant food and watering as often as I've seen gritty mix users say they have to water (every 3-4 days even). Is there perhaps a different ratio or set of ingredients I could mix to give the soil only a little less potential but a lot more leniency in those areas? I wish there was a list somewhere of the detailed benefits and pitfalls of different common soil ingredients.
  • Root pruning. Again, I'm new to plant care. How do you tell which roots are are healthy and which are sickly or dead beneath the soil line? Am I correct that I should prune the large roots without a lot of feeder roots? What should I look for beyond that? I've seen people straight up hack inches off the rootball. Is that much removal and abrasion very beneficial to the tree or can I just gently separate the roots and cut off obvious problem ones? I was uneasy enough with root pruning as it was and then found some even more disconcerting posts about how foliage may need pruning also to a level the new roots can support. I definitely don't want to prune my roots to a level near enough to likely need leaf pruning. It's still a short tree and every leaf is healthy.
  • Keeping the roots wet. How do I do this? Should I keep a light shower on them? Should I dunk them in a bucket of water every minute? Could someone please suggest an exact method and interval to do this right?
  • Watering. Should I water it right after repotting? Does the tree need to be kept in extra moist or extra dry soil before or after the report? Also, I've seen mention of people soaking their ingredients/soil before mixing/potting into it but I don't understand it. What's that part about?
  • Fertilising. Should I fertilise some time before the repot? Give it more strength somehow? I bought some Foliage Pro 9-3-6 recently but haven't been fertilising at all since I got the tree; just been giving it filtered water.
  • Pot size. I read these trees enjoy small pots and can even be repotted into the same pot after root pruning but I think mine is pushing it. It's over 2.5 feet tall in a 6-inch pot. I'm definitely going 8-inch minimum—but would it be better to go for a 10-inch?


Thank you everyone.


The (healthy as far as I can see) tree:





The troubled baby tree:





The roots:




Comments (2)

  • 8 years ago


    I have a healthy fiddle that I've had to repot twice now. It's now in a mix of roughly half Ocean Forest Fox Farm potting soil and half pine bark fines. If I were to redo it I would do the 3-1-1 that my Japanese Maples are in - 3 parts partially composted pine bark fines (with the sap wood stuff picked out), 1 part Ocean Forest potting soil, and 1 part perlite. Then I add about 1 Tbsp organic garden lime per gallon of finished mix, and Osmocote time release fertilizer per instructions on label.

    Personally, and I may be wrong here, but if your fiddle is pushing new growth then I would feel perfectly ok with repotting it at that time.

    I've had that issue before where new leaves seem susceptible to bugs and disease. I drench all the leaves in neem oil when that happens. But I think that leaf being puny indicates something else - maybe that it's time for a repot?

    Also, and take this with a grain of salt, I hack the roots when I repot. I'm not very judicious about it, taking about 30% to 40%. I use my super sharp garden scissors that I sterilize with Lysol (yes, aerosol Lysol). I cut away a certain amount mass-wise, then take care to also cut any wrap-around roots, "hooked" roots, and portions of thicker roots (to encourage growth of feeder roots).

    I do try to keep my hose sprayer on mist while I'm working and mist the roots pretty frequently but only to keep them moist. I work fast.

    Then I put it in the new pot and start filling with my mix. I pull the tree up slightly after every few scoops and try to make sure the root area doesn't have any air pockets. When I'm finished I water to eliminate any pockets I missed. I err on the side of caution and don't put soil around the root crown.

    Two things:

    I would take that small tree at the base out if possible. You can plant that in the current pot and see how it grows. If it's attached to the actual root of the larger tree (if it's just another node and not a separate tree) then I don't know, I'd probably keep it attached.

    Also, I would start pruning the canopy now. You can make more fiddles from the cuttings. I just plop my cuttings (of about two leaves) in moistened peat moss, put them in a well lit but protected shady area, and keep them moist. They will root. I dip them in rooting hormone first to make myself feel better. I usually do cuttings of about two leaves at a time like this. The benefit is that you will get branching from your main tree if you prune it, which is what you want. Mine started off like yours and now I have a real canopy. I'm about to prune at least four or five branches this month when the weather gets more consistently warm. I like to prune fiddle branches when I can leave the branch with two leaves and have two leaves to plant as cuttings.

    If your fiddle is pushing new growth I wouldn't time my repot by when I fertilized it last. But I wouldn't fertilize again for two weeks after the repot. Let the roots grow first into the new mix.

    Personally I'd go larger than an eight inch pot for the repot.

    I've included some pics of mine. It's about four feet tall and, like yours, started out as a single trunk tree. I've also included pics of several of the branches that I intend to prune in the next few weeks. Tomorrow I will post pics of a fiddle I'm trying to save. You'll be surprised. I hacked literally every single leaf off of it to get some back budding. Hopefully in a month I will see some results. It's nerve racking but I thought, why not try it?




    fennel94 thanked Patrick Blackmon (8a)
  • 8 years ago

    If you are looking to repot a FLFT be sure to read these step by step instructions. There are all guides to keeping a healthy FLFT and the best fertilizer to use.

    How to Repota Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree