Generator hook-up

8 years ago

I've had an 8kw, tri-fuel generator for a decade, but I've been wanting to make a more 'permanent' installation for almost as long. As it is now, the 13hp Honda is wheeled out of the garage with considerable difficulty (it's wider than the door...) with extension cords run to the fridge and freezer. As it can't be used in the rain, I'll be building a new shed just for the generator soon.

Obviously, 8kw and 30 amps of output won't run the entire household, but with a wood stove, gas range and several Aladdin kerosene lamps, I can get by just fine. Since the unit can run on natural gas (or propane or petrol), gas is the last utility around here to go down. It has run for 36 house straight before.

Without rewiring the entire panel box, there are basically two options: one is to buy a new meter base with an attached DPDT switch, one that is rated for the incoming 200 amps. Ronk makes a "Meter-Rite" unit for about $750. It appears to be bullet-proof, but then there is a lot more work involved - with multiple visits by the power company to remove and reinstall the meter.

The other is a GenerLink unit, which plugs into the meter socket. Quick and easy...."plug'n'play" for about $650 for a 30 amp rated unit. The 40 amp unit is $750, and both of these 'smart' units automatically switch back to line voltage when power is restored. But...and there's always a 'but'...on-line reviews have not been entirely favorable. Quite a few folks have reported no-functional units with less than stellar customer support from the manufacturer.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

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Comments (4)

weedmeister
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
There are other alternatives.

As you said, you can rewire the panel to create a subpanel with a transfer switch (probably manual in your case) that will allow you to power whatever critical circuits you wish.

The meter-based units you described to exist, but I've not heard much about them.

If you have space in your panel, you can install a physical interlock with a 30-amp breaker that will supply the whole panel when the generator is connected. The interlock is manual and prevents you from back-feeding the incoming power line. I have one of these in my panel. It would be incumbent on you to turn off loads that you don't need so you don't overload your generator (like AC and electric water heater, etc). You then have a receptacle outside the house for connecting the generator. You may have code issues with this in your area.
apg4
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Yeah, an interlock was my first - and cheapest - choice. There's an in-state company that sells a kit for about $175. But, I'd have to move just about every breaker in the box to accommodate this new breaker. (No matter, I installed the bloody thing myself a while back when I had service changed from 100 to 200 amps.) By using a manual switch on the meter base, I was trying to avoid another hole in the wall for the outside receptacle for cordset.

I was already planning on flipping the breakers on the biggest draws, all 220v: dryer, A/C, hot tub; I have an electric oven but a gas stovetop, so the oven would go too. I have gas hot water heat, so the only load would be the circulator, but with the wood stove, I don't even need that.

The appeal of the GenerLink unit was its plug'n'play simplicity - a five minute install. No new holes or wiring. Just not so sure of its construction quality....
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DavidR
8 years ago
It's more work, but I'd install a subpanel. Move over the circuits for which you want to have backup power.

Such a setup makes the changeover fast and pretty close to foolproof.

One advantage is that less knowledgeable members of your household can make it work when you're not home. You also know exactly which loads will be powered, without having to stop and think about which breakers to open and which to leave closed.
Ron Natalie
8 years ago
As stated, putting a second (sub) panel near the first is probably the easiest. You can splice in the original panel to extend the circuits over to the second. Then it's easy to install an interlock or transfer switch.

The code requires that you not be able to run the generator while the mains are connected and that if you had an automatic switch, you have to size the load so that it won't overload on the automatic cutover. If you have a manual transfer procedure, then you're free to manually shed loads first, but the seperate panel makes this easier (one handle throw).