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mvore

handrail design

8 years ago
We asked the GC if we could have it changed to a straight handrail as we did not like the design. He told us it had to be done like this to meet building code.

Anyone have a good solution to make it a straight rail?

Comments (16)

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Would you consider tearing out the stairs and rebuilding a good solution?

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    This is a design issue. Not a carpentry issue. Talk to the home designer who created the issue. Not to the carpenter who solved it.

  • 8 years ago

    generally the piece of rail is curved... i guess this is more modern looking? anyway, its how you get from there, to here...



    Leslie Hayes Interiors · More Info


  • 8 years ago

    Wouldn't call it a good solution, but one I may consider if it comes to that. Seeing how this was never discussed and none of the documents ever showed the handrail adjustment.

  • 8 years ago

    OMG... I thought it was an old house, but in a new build? Please post back the issue resolution, even if it's that you'll just live with it.

  • 8 years ago

    Yeah, my thinking right now is that the newell posts are not properly spaced out. I agree, it's a design issue. in a 2D drawing this is not observable. Makes me wish I had an architect with 3D software...

  • 8 years ago

    That cake is already baked. You’re down to the frosting now. Unless you want to throw it in the trash and hire a new baker to start from scratch.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Looks like you need an additional baluster next to those newels. The space should be less than 4". Check and make sure the handrail is between 34"-38". It looks low. An upeasing would have looked better.

    https://www.ljsmith.com/handrail/traditional-handrail-fittings/s-7012-h-upeasing-60-degree


  • 8 years ago
    This is the radical rail we have (in our 80-year old house) with similar stairs...
  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Add on an addition that will allow a stair with a straight run. It is a good solution, but it could be more than you want to spend.

    Or, move the last three treads about 11" downstream. This will extend the landing 11" and give opportunity for the handrail to terminate at the existing newel post without a jog. (my dimension may be off a little but I think my reasoning is right)

    Edit: Use the same concept at the top of the stairs, but I somehow think you do not have the space.

  • 8 years ago
    Mark, was thinking about that but I don’t think it’d work. The stairs came in 2 pieces. And it wouldn’t improve the design element in this setting as you can see, having railing extended 11” or so.
  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Staircases are geometric and mathematical puzzles that have to be carefully worked out at the beginning of the project before the house comes out of the ground. Good ones are such a pleasure to see, but they require skill, time & money that most are not willing to learn. Could be worse.

  • 8 years ago
    I like the last pic gthigpen posted. Maybe that will work for you??
  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    M V, is your first landing square and flat like first photo by gthigpen? (not having pie shaped step(s)).

    If so, code allows you to terminate the handrail straight on like gthigpen's second photo. You can also do that at top of the stair, no need for the jogs.

  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Actually, when a handrail jog is required due to presence of pie shaped, winder steps, the hand rail must be contiguous (like ninigret's photo), not interrupted by the newel post like in M V's case.