So far, I have only stripped and started sanding the top. The legs are definitely next. I would not have guessed walnut. I just love the legs and was in the market for a round coffee table.

I love the style, but I'd paint it or re-stain it to get rid of the odd edge.

I did some internet research on walnut. If it is walnut, the sapwood is very blonde - which may explain the edge. I don't mind the two tone effect.

I believe they used Ash on the outer portion. they did on the Acclaim line. same type of look. it's purposely meant to be lighter. I would not stain over it. however, I would finish it up a bit better and try to get the lighter portion to even out. if you do a clear coat, do a semi gloss finish. it will deepen those walnut tones too. If you want to oil it w/a matte finish, use pure tung oil (not a finish) or hemp oil mixed w/a little citrus solvent so you can spread it around. be generous and let it soak into the wood. wipe off excess.

Thanks Beth - will try to sand more and even out the edge. Curious to see what the legs look like when I strip them tomorrow. I am leaning towards not staining. There are a few 'gaps' between the joined pieces. Should I use wood putty to fill it in or just leave it be? Thanks

That edge is an add on. Probably maple. Not inexpensive to make like that, so the table should have some value. I would not use poly, water based or oil based. Reason? Poly is a form of plastic and chips. The chips are not easily repaired(other finishes can be feathered in for a repair). I'd use a non poly varnish from a real paint store or one carried by hardware stores.

If you decide to stain that edge, be aware maple is difficult to stain evenly. The best method is to apply stain and wipe off after about 5-10 minutes. You will see the areas where the stain is absorbed differently than others---more or less absorption. Another way to get more even color with maple is to use a wood dye instead of a stain. Smaller particles of the dye versus stains often results in more even color. However, dying is a bit different than staining and requires different prep. Lots of info on You Tube.

handy mac...no. the edge is not an add on. I posted pics of the table from the factory finish. it's a two tone table. and it's ash, not maple. This is another of Lanes table w/a two tone. The Acclaim. it's not an add on. same wood OP has.

there is no non-poly varnish. varnish is made of poly, mineral spirits and a type of oil, usually linseed.

Poly does not chip if prepped and used correctly. wth are you talking about? I have a solid walnut bar top I made with numerous coats of a glossy poly. I made it 10 years ago. that thing doesn't have one chip on it and still looks great. Poly is not suitable for exterior finishes, or anything with a lot of temperature fluctuations. those cause the wood to expand and contract, which then causes the poly to crack. that's why spar varnish is used outdoors. Perhaps you need a refresher on finishing.

The finish I posted for her is a urethane that is meant for wood finishes.

I've used it for years. it not some plastic crap that just coats the wood. I also said she could use a tung or hemp oil. mix it with mineral spirits and poly, and you have your own varnish!

as for watching you tube videos, there are plenty of people doing things incorrectly. kind of like on here where people post erroneous comments.

I really don't know about the staining and all that, but I think you got an incredible bargain! I love the table.

Cor, what joined pieces? I'd prob leave it. if you fill it, it won't match the stain or the grain.

I found two pics of a similar Lane table. same wood as yours, different shape. looks like they stained the outer Ash. doesn't look nice. leave it natural.

these were known as the 'guitar pick' table.

found this one,,,similar base as yours, oak top

Here’s a woodworking blog about refinishing these types of Lane tables (yours is not an acclaim, but same idea). Some good tips in the comments. You’re not supposed to make the ash edge the same color as the walnut—they should look different but not with sharp contrast, like that original finish photo Beth posted. http://modernwoodworking.blogspot.com/2012/10/refinishing-classic-lane-acclaim-coffee.html

After a closer look, I agree the border may be ash. Which is easier to stain.

Now what? It appears that the stand/legs are ash too. Do I sand off the finish on the 'flat/side' portion of the leg and keep the rounded sections dark and not sand them too much? Or do I try and stain the base walnut? Yikes!!!!!

I used to sell vintage mid century modern furniture. It's lovely, please don't paint it.

Thanks Bonnie - I have no intention in painting it! The serial number reveals that it was made in 1963.

cor, I would try and stain them the same color,,,a medium or light walnut.

are you using a stripper? sanding only remove the surface stain. to pull out all of the stain, you need a stripper. going to be very difficult to try and sand in those grooves of the legs. Try SoyGel (Amazon) get the smallest bottle. it's as natural as you can go. doesn't have the same harsh ingredients like the other stuff. with soy gel you can use bare hands and it cleans up w/water. the others need another chemical wash to clean. this oak piece I completely stripped w/this. got it all down to bare wood. apply it liberally and wait about 45 mins. take a plastic scraper and all that should come off. (no odor either)

when it's all stripped, sand w/150. apply a pre-coditioner, and then your stain.

>>there is no non-poly varnish. varnish is made of poly, mineral spirits and a type of oil, usually linseed.

Not true. There are alkyd and phenolic resin varnishes.

(Oil Based) Varnish is made by heating a resin with an oil resulting in a new product, varnish, then thinning the result with a petroleum distillate.

Resins are urethane, alkyd, and phenolic

Oils are linseed, soy, and tung

Waterlox, McCloskey's Heirloom, Sherwin Williams Fast Dry, Cabot, Pratt & Lambert 38 and most of the true marine varnishes like Epifanes, Interlux, and Pettitare all non-poly.

The "Oil and Urethane Blend" on the Arm-r-Seal is like calling a loaf of bread "Flour and Yeast Blend"

ok bob. i'm not talking about marine varnishes. and perhaps my statement was a little generalized. although,At its core, polyurethane is a petrochemical resin that contains isocyanates.so technically i'm not too far off.

However, i'm talking about readily available products that a novice could get. the stuff you buy off the shelf at the big stores that most of these people visit. personally I've used about 6 of those names on your list but don't think this OP needs to spend that money and get that varnish. a regular poly is perfectly fine for this table. it's not going to crack because it isn't outside. Epifanes is $50 for a small can. she really has to use that when a GF topcoat will work just as well ? Or Deft water based poly from Lowes for under $15?

Polyurethane is a sealant and finish product that is used to protect and enhance fine wood floors, cabinets and furniture. While it is similar to varnish in terms of application and appearance, polyurethane is generally harder and more abuse resistant, which means it is commonly used for sealing wood floors.

Unfortunately, polyurethane is less flexible than varnish, so it may not be the best choice to use on wood pieces that move or flex.

Which is what I mentioned in my comment. you don't have to worry about the poly cracking so there is no need to spend money on a varnish.

The "Oil and Urethane Blend" on the Arm-r-Seal is like calling a loaf of bread "Flour and Yeast Blend"

what is your point to this comment? I wasn't part of the naming crew for this product.