Since I have cut one and applied finishes to some they are not returnable. I researched these counters intensely including finishes. I am very disappointed with them.

i am going to resand them tonight, maybe I will leave them alone for awhile longer to "dry" them out more. My renovations are almost done and I will need to use the counters soon. I told my husband I am ready to glue laminate on the top of them. I was only half joking!

Sound's like wet wood to me, too.

How long ago did you purchase it? How did you store it after purchase? How was it displayed/ stores at LL's?

Definitely wet wood.

It had been backordered so maybe it literally had just been made.I picked it up and brought it home, Was about two weeks before I started to try to do anything with it. Thanks to everyone. I am beside myself thinking I will never have the counters I envisioned.

Well, it wasn't that expensive. There are other places to buy walnut BB for not a huge amount of money, too. You could certainly replace it from another budget supplier for probably close to what you paid originally. For a relatively small upcharge you could get into something like craft-art, which is a much higher quality product.

ETA but I don't think you're likely to have much success in waiting for this stuff to dry out at this point.

You bought LL. What exactly were your expectations in dealing with a seconds and cheepchinesecrapola retailer that has been fined extensively for violating the Lacey act and sued multiple times for falsifying CARB requirements?

It had been backordered so maybe it literally had just been made.I picked it up and brought it home, Was about two weeks before I started to try to do anything with it. Thanks to everyone. I am beside myself thinking I will never have the counters I envisioned.

You could try putting the sections in an air conditioned room on sawhorses. Add a dehumidifier set to run constantly. Add a fan set on low to keep the air moving. And leave it alone for 30 days or so.

Don't know if this will work but it is what I would try.

Also check on it every few days to turn it over and make sure that it isn't warping. May need to clamp it or clamp some cauls on it if it does start to warp.

Might should invest in a moisture meter. Not expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00275F5O2/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Jvi_cr_x__w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=VQMA96CCGDGXY2N77333&pf_rd_r=VQMA96CCGDGXY2N77333&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e26bff90-ea88-5520-bc4d-84d756ec169e&pf_rd_p=e26bff90-ea88-5520-bc4d-84d756ec169e&pf_rd_i=553270

I'm thinking you might use this butcher block for work benches in the garage and do something else for the kitchen. Sadly, it won't be ready to use for kitchen counters for quite some time. I know that's a huge disappointment and you've put in a ton of work, but it's probably just not going to work. Sorry.

Or, you could find a mill or sawyer with a kiln and see if they will add the pieces to their next load. That cuts drying time to days.

HandyMac, I was wondering, since it only appears on the darkest pieces, if it's not possible that only some of the blocks are under-dried. In a situation with acceptably dry blocks next to the wet ones, what would happen in a kiln? Wouldn't that risk damaging the parts that are okay by over-drying?

That may be a possibility. However, air drying(as suggested) will have the same problems. The darker sections may have more moisture. Wood movement and moisture content is a huge factor in working with wood. Proper drying before gluing pieces together is necessary for long lasting success.

One situation that occurs in drying is that the moisture has to travel from inside the wood to the outside. The wood changes during this process. When different pieces of wood(even the same species) are glued together, the differences in moisture content do make a difference. The glue also impedes the process.

All that is necessary before any finish is applied. Finishing wood is often much more difficult than the work necessary to create the product. Because of the moisture situation.

I'd venture this problem you have will be a long term problem. The solution is to get rid of the moisture. The problem with doing that is the differences in moisture content of different sections. You can only try different things to find if one works. And it may be nothing works well enough.

Mac, what do you think about drilling a series of very small holes in the blushing pieces on the underside of the butcher block? Not all the way thru it, of course. And then stashing it into the de-humidified room for a month or so.

I would invest in a moisture meter before trying to finish it. If/ when a moisture reading green lights that's it's dry enough to finish, then finish, wait a few days and if no blush, then fill the holes and finish the underside?

Ci_lantro you are a genius. I already have a moisture meter! I think I was just so disappointed I couldn't even think properly! Thank you.

Danielle, that's great! When you get a reading, please post back to us so we will know for sure if wet wood was causing the blushing.

I tested some random pieces of the butcher block. They ranged from 6 on the lighter and medium pieces to 9.2 on the darkest ones with the blushing.

I decided to go ahead with the application of the Watco butcher block oil for now and intended to try to redo with tung oil in 6 months. After 3 light coats with sanding in between the white has all but dissipated. It is very hard to see now.

i looked at the Craft art website to see about buying new counters. The very first picture of the walnut counters has this white blush I have on mine. That was what made me decide to wait it out for 6 months. This whole house is a construction zone. There is no air conditioning yet and it has been very hot and humid this summer. I have hope that I will get the tung oil finish I am hoping for if I am patient. Moving on to another project for now.

I appreciate all of the helpful advice I have received.

What? Maybe you'd post some photos then, and a link or screenshot of the one on the craft-art page you mean.

Are you talking about this photo? I don't see any blush there, if so.

I’m curious which photo on the Craft-Art website shows this blush. I purchased DIY Black Walnut from Craft-Art and it’s beautiful. Never saw any blushing in the long process of applying the many coats of Waterlox Tung Oil. They provided detailed info on project success and emphasized climate control, acclimation, and venting. The company was great to work with and I am extremely satisfied with the beautiful wood and end result. This is the wood the day it was delivered

GW · More Info

and several years after the Waterlox was applied.

Really pretty counters, Danielle.

Notice the bit of blushing in spots that were close to knots in the wood. Wood there is more dense so slower to dry. Definitely think moisture was the culprit. Counters have been slowly drying; thinking you'll be good to go in another month or so.

Thank you for posting an update!