You say it has a circuit board. Perhaps the circuit board is loose from its connector. You operate the door which shakes the opener and causes the board to temporarily reconnect. I assume that the board is only for the over-the-air control so the opener always works from the wall switch. I'd try removing the circuit board, checking the connector -- and any other connections inside the opener -- for any crud, and re-seating the board.

Have you tried turning it off and on again?

1) If I unplug it then plug it back in would I need to reprogram everything?

2) I am going to try the little tiny junky remote that came with opener....never really used so batteries should be fresh. I doubt its a battery issue nevertheless...I do not think the HOMELINK in the car is battery powered.

3) The LEDS have been in there for a year...no issue till recently....by the way...have you notced its getting hard to find the old incadecents….it is by me....

HowsoHowso

Common sense says to remove the LEDs, replace with incandescents and see if the problem goes away. Cheap, easy, fast. If that fixes it, you don't need to do another thing.

Snippet below from How LED lights can cause problems with your garage door opener

So, you’re experiencing problems with your garage door opener’s remote unit, but you aren’t sure why. Everything else seems to be in order, but the fact remains that sometimes the door works without issue, and sometimes it simply goes haywire.

If you can’t identify the culprit, consider the fact that it may be the presence of LED lights that’s complicating matters

(Garage door lights are a really low value target for LEDs since they operate for only a very few minutes a day. i.e., payback would take decades. Check Menard's for incandescents if you have Menard's stores in your area. I see lots of them often at garage and estate sales.

Try a rough service incandescent.

The link is for illustration and isn't meant as an endorsement.

I had a garage guy changing my door spring on one of the doors with a more heavy duty spring, and he said that the garage motor was displaying a red code, and that he would have to change the board.
I asked him to unplug it for a few minutes, and check again if he didn't mind.
And Voila, it didn't need replacing.

ok...

I finally found some incandescent bulbs and replaced the leds...that was this evening. We will find out tommotor if that makes a difference. If it does, OHD bet start selling bulbs...I was told they will not be avaibale soon.batteries...sometimes works. My homelink...sometimes yes, sometimes no. It seems no matter what, after the door opens or closes by whatever means....all 3 work thereafter.

I finally found some incandescet bulbs and replaced the leds...that was this evening. We will find out tommorow if that makes a difference. If it does, OHD bet start selling bulbs...I was told they will not be available soon.

Incandescent bulbs aren't going away. Some rabble-rouser came up with that garbage to get people all riled up, but it's just plain wrong. You can still get specialty incandescents, and you'll probably be able to get them pretty much forever.

Some examples of specialty bulbs are appliance bulbs, rough service bulbs, coated bulbs, sign bulbs, 3-way bulbs, and some kinds of reflector bulbs.

These bulbs aren't made in huge quantities, so they cost more than the cheapies that we used to buy at 4 for a buck 20+ years ago. Some cost more than cheap LED and/or CF bulbs. But if you need an incandescent bulb for your door opener or work light, they're available and they'll continue to be available.

PS - Wandering through the big box home centers, I've seen LED bulbs that claim to be GDO compatible.

Garage door openers have a limit to how many things can be linked to it. If that limit is hit, it will kick out the oldest one programmed and replace it with the new one. That was my first thought initially but that can’t be the case if it starts working again after the wall opener activates it.

It could be possessed. In which case you’d have to move.

More than likely though, it’s the LED bulb. Or the sensors could be dirty. It also could be the sun hitting the sensors just right and confusing it. Try cleaning it first.

Well I took out the LEDS and its been working without issue. I have no idea why it suddenly became an issue...they were in there for over a year.

In addition to bulbs in the openers we have a ceiling bulb in front of each opener. In there I have had 150W twisty CFLbulbs for 5 years. The interesting thing I noticed when I replaced the 2 led bulbs in my opener was that one cfl on wife's side had burned out. Could it have been some weird issue where everything worked fine until that sucker blew out? I looked to replace it but cannot find 150W twisty CFLs anymore. Ironically I put the 75W led bulb I took out of my opener in the ceiling on my wife's side...everything still works.

Interestingly it is a s bright as the 150 CFl on my side...I guess CFLs lose their brightness over time. I am going to remove the CFL from my side and stick the other led in the ceiling. Time will tell if a problem is created again.

Hey, anyone know if there is an app for gardenweb. I can't post via my android phone....whatever I type gets overwritten or messed up....I always need to post from a pc...

What lindsey_9002 said about the sun hitting it happened to us. Our garage door wouldn't close in the mornings during the winter at our old house, and we finally figured out that it was the angle of the morning sun hitting the sensor just right, so we'd have to cast a shadow on that sensor for a few weeks.