Thanks for the kind words.

Al

I think I have read all of them. May I add a few:

Keep them looking good: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/ukeeping-u-them-looking-good-dsvw-vd~1497307

Root Pruning: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/why-root-prune-when-you-repot-dsvw-vd~2025020

Pinching Jap Maples: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/pinching-japanese-maples-dsvw-vd~3846058

Air layering: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/layering-air-layering-marcotting-another-name-for-air-layering-dsvw-vd~5059015

Ballast: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/using-ballast-to-combat-excess-water-retention-dsvw-vd~4866899

And Al's excellent sense of humor: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/need-advice-sort-of-somewhat-a-little-bit-personal-dsvw-vd~1374480

Also I think what should be sticky post is to introduce new members how to search this website or the internet and use it properly before posting. How to post a picture and how to provide enough info so that others can help.

I'd like to add this thread too even though it wasn't started by tapla https://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1378483/taplas-5-1-1-container-mix-in-more-detail

Don't believe houz has a "sticky"option. If we had the option of editing a FAQ, it would at least be possible to post the links in a central location.

Al and all others who have been here for years and shared their knowledge in these threads and others...THANK YOU!!!!

I have read all of this material once, and will surely need to go back and read it again to fully absorb it. Even then, it is permanently bookmarked on my computer as a reference guide of sorts. My job keeping containerized plants healthy (hopefully for decades to come), has become easier now that I have an understanding of how to accomplish this.

Sharing this newfound pot of gold and helping others, paying it forward if you will, is going to be rewarding.

Al please write a book! And teach some workshops here in New England, would ya? :)

Al and all,

What about pruning/pinching threads?

About pruning - Q&A Format The focus is on pruning and pinching any plants with a branching habit - covers woody and herbaceous species. Teaches you how to take control over your plant's natural growth habit, and how to keep plants full and compact. The concept that governs a plant's reaction to pruning and pinching is very predictable. It should be looked at as one of the most important tools for ensuring your plant is pleasing to the eye.

Keep Your Plants Looking Good. Very similar to above. While a high level of vitality/good health is the most important part of maintaining consistently attractive plants, this thread also focuses on pinching/pruning and what reaction to expect from the plant.

Al

I am not sure but the link to Sick and Dying Plants seemed broken. I searched and found this one:

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/3825798/sick-or-dying-plants#n=79

Al, I am doing a search right now for instructions/tips on rooting cuttings - thank you (again) for all your help over the years!

Btw ... if anyone else is looking for a thread about cuttings, this one is hitting the spot for me (even without the pictures):

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/1477124/how-to-root-a-ficus-cutting#n=36

A squirrel decapitated my little ficus. I am trying to save it.

Make sure you clean up the proximal end of the cutting where the squirrel chewed by trimming back to undamaged tissue. I order disposable scalpels (#11 works best for plants) and use them to carefully trim the cambium and smooth sapwood and any heartwood before sticking propagules. A very large % of cuttings fail because they were taken with scissors, secateurs, or other tools that crush tissue. The tiny straggler filaments of damaged tissue is usually where rot gets a hold. The scalpels are only about 80 cents each and come with a snap on cover for safety. Mine last at least an entire season, and I propagate a fair amount of woody material.

Thank you for bumping this thread - I'd forgotten all about it; and thanks for the kind words N2SG - thoughtful of you! Please take good care of yourself. I know CA is going through especially rough times. I have a good Dr friend who works emergent care in Fremont. I just rec'd a message saying she's moving out of her own home (her mother lives with her) because she's really worried about her potential impact on mom, among other grave concerns. I hope everyone fares well until we get a handle on this mess.

Al

When links do not work try this: replace the leading forums2 with www and http with https. Houzz has been changing how legacy links work and some of the older ones work and some do not.

So a link like: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/3825798/sick-or-dying-plants?n=6

does not work, but any of the following, with the two modifications will:

https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/3825798/sick-or-dying-plants?n=6

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/3825798/sick-or-dying-plants?n=6

N2SG: I just replied to your other thread on F. religiosa rooting. Hope that helps. https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/5884681/cutting-advice-f-religiosa#n=1

Al - thanks!! That was going to be my next question ... right now, the little "stick" still has its chewed end. I've kept fertilizing it. I hope it comes back!!!

And I echo what you say about the virus - I know healthcare providers are heading into very rough waters. I am pretty sedate in general but I am being extra careful so I don't have to go in and take up resources. I hope your friend and her mother will be okay. I hope we can come through this as a society in a creditable way. I do have hopes for that.

And Tropicofcancer - wow, thanks -- that is a really excellent trick!!! It is a giant bummer to not be able to find things. This will really help.

And if anyone out there is thinking about re-using perlite, I found the bit where a poster talked about his cleaning techniques. It is in this Link: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/1383968/pumice-versus-perlite#n=42

Mine wasn't going to be re-used, but it had been sitting out for so long I figured I should be careful. Then I changed my mind and went with Napa, which has also been sitting out. Then I saw what might be roots starting, and put up another photo. I am such a reactive gardener! Scatterbrained.

N2SG: If the stick you are referring to has no leaves then better not fertilize it. Just plain water is good unless it is very hard. Then rainwater will be preferable. The reason is as follows: Pure water with nothing in it, is the most easily absorbed by plants. If the plant has leaves and light /temperature/season are suitable then it needs the nutruents. It uses the nutrients to create more leaves and bulk up. If there are no leaves then no need for nutrients. And as I said without the nutrients it is easier for the plant to absorb water. Adding nutrients at this stage is stressful for the "stick".

Hi, tropicofcancer,

sorry this reply is so late, but, I took your advice and stopped fertilizing until I saw green. It's now doing great - in fact, there are like 5 now, apparently growing out of a root!!!

So now I have an interesting new dilemma from that, which is good because I think I killed the top half (I forgot to water it one time, and it all drooped severely, even after I did water it... I am still watering that one too, to see if any roots were left alive.)

hi people! I just thought I'd bump this up so it is more easily findable. Below there are lists of good threads. I am thankful for this site and for having access to Al's and others' thoughts.

Also, somewhere in here there is very good advice to help fix addresses and find other old threads.

Some day I believe Houzz will fix the search function. And when that happens, I'll be thankful for that too.

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Are you in Naples, Italy or Michigan? I am a bit confused.

Are you in Naples, Italy or Michigan? I am a bit confused.

I added that comment to this thread by mistake. I've now deleted it. I live in Italy, tapla in Michigan.

No problem.

I am in zone 6b in Pittsburgh, PA, USA (41N latitude). Typically my ficus and quite a few other tropical plants will start producing new leaves and some start flowering too about this time. It seems to be a genetic thing for the tropicals. I have them inside, most of them under lights. The growth is weak unlike the growth in Summer. I do most of my tropical repots in June/July. The day-lengths are longer then and min night temperatures will not fall below 16-17c. It ensures that the the conditions are right for quick recovery.

If I was in place closer to equator would probably not hesitate to repot a ficus now in March as long as temperatures permit.

You are at 40N latitude. I would wait till about May when the daylight length and amount of light changes in favor of the plant.

I live at approx 43* N latitude, if that makes any difference to anyone.

Al

Latitude is just one of many factors. London is slightly north of Paris, but has less hot summers and less cold winters than Paris. New York has the same latitude as Naples, but in New York in winter it sometimes snows a lot and in Naples it never snows.

Latitude determines the strength and duration of daylight and this is a very important factor in plant growth. Near the equator the monthly variation is little. As you go away from the equator the both duration and intensity changes quite a bit. Here is a graph of daylight duration vs month for a few latitudes:

The graph itself does not tell the whole story. The intensity (solar energy) also changes in the same fashion. In winter tropical plants do not get enough and become weak. Around March the light amount starts favoring plant growth and in June it peaks. March to June the plants can pick up some energy. Repotting in June ensures that the conditions are still favorable for reasonable time for a speedy recovery.

If I had a proper greenhouse I think repotting in April/May would have been possible.

@tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a), @tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)

Keep in mind, however, the different climate of Bay City and Naples: today 7/2° C versus 24/12° C. This is why I wonder if branches and roots can be pruned here before elsewhere. PS: Happy Easter.