It’s common to have the pulls in that location, the paint shouldn’t be chipping. Is this a factory finish?

It is a custom cabinet and the painting was done by the cabinet maker at his factory. Think it's a laquer finish.

I am confused where did you want the pulls to go? They look normal to me.


Did you specify where you wanted the pulls to go?

My problem is that when the pulls are used, the paint is scratched off. I agree they look like they are in a normal location but I am thinking the result of the paint scratching off is not normal.

How would I fix the paint issue if the pulls stay where they are?

The best product for a painted finish Is a post catalyzed conversion varnish. You may want to look into that if you need to repaint. I used this Top Knob pull because it had a substantial grip and a higher projection than some of the others that I liked. My husband has large hands and I wanted to make sure that we minimized rubbing the finish. I can easily hook my finger through the pull and open the drawer without touching the panel.

https://www.topknobs.com/collections/chareau/tk384bsn-shrewsbury-d-pull-5-1-16-inch-c-c.html

When I was interviewing cabinet makers and manufacturers, I did a deep dive into their painting process and eliminated anyone that wasn't using a post cat product.

http://shearerpainting.com/conversion-varnish-advantages-over-lacquer/

Oops -- I misspoke--- the cabinets are lacquered. How can I harden that finish? I will look at the cup pulls.

Just for clarification the cup pull should replace the ones on the drawers only. This won't help if nails are causing problems on the cupboards. I am assuming you know this but wanted to state it anyway....

Thanks...nails are causing a problem only on the drawers and only on the ledge of the decorative trim on the narrower drawers.

The problem is the paint and not where the handles were put. As Wilson said, you need a harder finish and that can't be done by your local cabinet maker.

You might not be able to get cup pulls on the narrow drawers. An option would be--if these are fairly new--to get new drawer fronts for the skinny drawers. Either put the handles on the top rail or have them made without the recessed panel.

If that can't work, touch them up and put wax over the vulnerable spots. And try to train household members to be careful. (I don't expect that to help though.)

Geeze what kind of crapola paint did this guy use, I had painted cabinets in my kitchen for nearly 32 years (painted by US), and this never happened.

if the special paint used by cabinet manufacturers isn’t used, then oil-based enamel should be, preferably gloss enamel. It dries ( that can take quite a while) to a very hard finish.

If cup handle won't work because of space, you might look into having knob on the really narrow inset drawers one on each end.But you will have to look at whether it will aesthetically look good. And try to add the knobs in other areas to make it look like they were part of the plan,

paint shouldn't be chipping like that. were these oak, previously owned? or are these custom made and he painted them after they were built?

If the former, what kind of prep was done, and what kind of primer was used?

grabbing a handle and having fingernails scratch off the finish is not normal.

Call back your cab guy and tell him what's happening. hopefully you have some sort of warranty for touch-ups. Maybe he can do another clear coat.

as for the handles, you can't' move them. what are you going to do w/the holes left behind?

you can try a cup pull.

BTW, the handles are in the correct position.

That model of handle doesn't have enough projection for your drawer design. It would be a nice solution to have spacers of the same material to bring them out some. I don't see that happening because of the shoulder at the base.

The pull is too shallow, but fine in that LOCATION. No you can't use a cup pull, the drawer style leaves no room for it. Go to a good kitchen supply, take a pull with you and look for something with a deeper return/extension.. Or get a matching backplate

As to the paint? Separate and badly done.

Thank you all for such professional advice. It is the paint job....paint job was done by the local cabinet maker that the re-modeler insisted on using. I will surely look for a deeper return or a matching backplate. Again, thank you.

You also need to take it up with your GC and/or the cabinet maker.

..can I add that your hood is absolutely beautiful!

I agree on the hood - is it custom?

Yes, you will have to have the vendor re-finish the fronts.

I would also add to the rest to purchase new pulls that have a longer projection, than the norm. That type of door design calls for it.

Good luck

Richelieu makes these oval pulls in a variety of finishes that protect the undersurface. Try part #8415192195 for starters. They project quite high, I'd say a good 1 1/2" or 2".

Would anyone mind commenting on whether post-catalytic conversion varnish finish is a factor in natural wood finishes? I'm looking at a custom cabinet maker just like the OP but won't be doing painted, just a clear coat over natural wood. I am worried about the longevity of the finish since he doesn't have a heat-baked process in his small shop. He did say it was a two-part, industrial varnish he uses and that he has had good results. Maybe the OP could use something like this just to touch up the damage and re-varnish. Thanks.

Definitely bring this up with your contractor. If he insisted on using the cabinetmaker, then he needs to see that the work is done correctly, even if means redoing it. Perhaps the humidity level was wrong, or not enough time between coats, or prep was bad. Pulls with more projection will help with that style drawer.

Don't buy all the hype that your cabinet paintjob is garbage. I think that is way overblown. The paint is fine.

It's not scratching off because of a single stray fingernail. It's scratching off after repeated offenses, and even the fanciest laquerediest catalyzedest finish ever would do that with your setup. It's wear, and it is to be expected when fingers have to squeeze to get in.

Look for taller handles--that's a good idea and might be enough.

(And in spite of you saying it's coming off, it actually isn't that bad, YET. It's barely noticeable still.)

I just bought handles for all my new cabinet drawers. We bought new matching knobs for the existing doors too. (we replaced several cabinets with drawer bases. And I’m planning a DIY paint job to make everything match. ). Anyway, I really prefer handles with a higher projection. It’s just more comfortable to us. Others have made excellent suggestions about maybe getting the drawers repainted if really necessary. But I really think that a higher projection on your handles will fix your issue. Every handle you look up on websites has a spec sheet with the projection listed. Just make sure the measurement for centers is the same.

Red

The Vernon Offset pull by Rejuvenaton Hardware is simple, elegant, and had 7/8” projection. Look at them on the website. See the real life pix near bottom of the product page and see if something like that might make a difference.

Red

OMG - so many good suggestions. I'll soon be off in search of higher projection handles. Then I'll focus on the paint. The hood? It is indeed beautiful. It is a Vent-A-Hood --- added the copper bar as a design note. THANKS TO ALL OF YOU.

I agree with Fori, because I am seeing this same thing on our stained trash cabinet. I noticed a part of the cabinet was starting to look beat up after only 6 months. Yes, we use the trash cabinet a lot, but we use the whole kitchen a lot and there is zero wear showing anywhere else (which is what I would expect after only 6 months). I couldn’t figure out the issue, it wasn’t a spot that would get bumped taking the trash bins in and out, I was at a loss. Then one day I was opening the cabinet and felt my fingernails scrape the exact spot that is getting beaten up! I am doing it! (I was secretly blaming the kids!). In looking I realized that because of how it opens the pull is placed differently than every other pull except the tray cabinet, which doesn’t get used nearly as much. The placement of the pull rght by the slight edging detail is causing my nails (and probably other people’s) to catch on the edging. The pulls on my drawers and uppers aren’t positioned as close to the raised edging so my nails aren’t hitting on those, and they show no wear. For me, because it is one cabinet, I am not replacing all the pills. I have found that if I come at the pull from under rather than over my nails aren't as likely to scrape, so I am simply re-training myself to turn my hane when I open that cabinet. It also has the touch open, but for whatever reason I only use that when my hands are full/wer/dirty. i need to start thinking to just knee it more often. Once I am consistent in opening it differently I will use the touch up stain on the spots and hopefully be ok.