Heruga, have you tested the soil? That's the only way to know the pH for certain.

I had to look this up because I had never heard it before:

https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/tree/junvir/all.html

(Look under "Botanical and ecological characteristics", then "SITE CHARACTERISTICS" and it will discuss how Juniperus virginiana is thought to affect soil pH)

Interestingly, the rise in surface soil pH around the trees is associated with the high calcium content of the shed needles. I wonder if similarly high calcium content exists in the stump or not.

FWIW, a number of trees can alter the soil surface pH slightly with accumulations of debris/needles/etc. But it is not a substantial change and does not penetrate into the soil profile to any depth so will not affect other plants with deep root systems at all. And simply raking the debris away before planting will eliminate any concerns.

Thank you for the clarification. So I guess the publication is only pointing out that this change in surface soil pH makes it more favorable for seedling establishment of the species?

Well good to hear that. I can now safely plant my azaleas there.

While much of NJ does have acidic soils, actual pH can vary quite widely by site and even from place to place within the same garden, depending on surroundings. Without a soil test to confirm, I would never assume that pH will be suitable for azaleas or other acid loving plants.

Are those simple ph kits reliable ? I used them in my college project but never went as far as figuring out if it was actually accurate or not. I’d like to avoid bringing soil samples to labs and having to pay extra fees for it.

Rutgers does a simple soil test that includes pH for only $20. But yes, home test kits are remarkably accurate if you use distilled water. Regular tap water tends to alter results.

add mucho amounts of peat moss to the area , it will certainly reduce ph

I used to (wrongly) use peat moss for all plantings , and later ( 3 yrs ) check ph levels to find them at 5.0

you can buy a ph meter for less than 20 bucks

ron

pH meters - unless expensive science lab quality - are pretty much useless. Home test kits work much better and cheaper.

Alright after I test my soil pH I will try dumping loads of peat moss on the planting bed. If the pH is higher than 6.5

gal , I've not heard bad things about home meters

seems a pretty simple thing

watsup ?

ron

pH is an exponential function ... i highly doubt short of tons .. literally ..... of organic material ... over decades.. if not hundreds of years ... you will change it ... IMO!!!!!

to change it.. you must use chemistry ... and use the proper soil amendments ...

look at this link... regarding such: http://www.savvygardener.com/Features/soil_ph.html

and notice the POUNDS of material per 10 square feet ..

i simply dont think you will have any significant impact with a little bit of peat moss ... and i am mystified by plant killers scenario ... wonder if it something in the water ... lol ...

ken

We're talking basics here. Wouldn't ordinary litmus paper do the job?

What's wrong with pink Hydrangeas? lol

Lets just hope I have acid soil then. If not I'm going to keep searching different spots in my yard. I wonder if frozen winter soil has an impact on pH though, maybe I should take samples on a dry day and when it hasn't had any precipitation for a few days. I would like to do it now rather than wait until April.

I am fascinated with blue hydrangeas and any other color than that completely turns me off when it comes to hydrangeas. (Macrophylla)

No need to hope. If you get a cheap soil test kit you can stop guessing.

Meanwhile.... What colour are hydrangeas in neighbouring gardens? How well do Ericaceous plants grow in your neighbourhood? Not that that is a certain guide to the soil in your garden but it's a guideline. Btw, freezing won't make any difference. Nor is precipitation going to alter the underlying pH of the soil.

If it turns out your pH is high you can grow in containers using ericaceous potting soil.

ken , 10 sq. ft. is like 1 plant,,,chart says 1.5 lbs. to go from 6.5 to 5.5 ,, that's nothing

but the use of peat moss ( not org. mater ) ( about 1 cu . ft. ) would do same thing ,,

with added benifit of making the bed soft & fluffy ,,, for roddys

this observation is based on using a ph meter... now questionable

ron

Use granular sulfur to make soils containing too much calcium more favorable to plant growth:

https://rootmaker.com/sites/default/files/pdf/pHFactorFieldSoilsE.pdf

I am getting a soil test kit. I’m just saying that I hope I have acidic soil. Hydrangeas here start off almost all blue except that they turn pink after about a month or 2. Don’t know why it does that. Azaleas are very prevalent in my neighborhood. But then again I see a lot of azaleas doing well planted right next to foundations which is weird because I thought building, foundations, or concrete emit a higher ph in adjacent soils. Maybe it’s that azaleas aren’t as fussy as we think when it comes to soil ph. There are also tons of pieris japonica here. Blueberries not so much.

Sure , and with ken's chart , use .2 lbs. of sulfur per 10sq. ft.

but that is an on going thing,,at least every other year

Heruga,

the hydra. in pots have corect ph ,,, when roots get out in surrounding soil . things change

and any of these soil amendments need to be tilled in , not just dumped on the bed

ron

I know that and the hydrangeas I see that I’m talking about are all in ground ones. Regardless though all of them here first start off with blue blooms that eventually mature to pink. I hope there’s a way you can keep it blue for the entire bloom duration from June to October.

Ok I should stop talking about hydrangeas now since this is a conifer forum.

Skip the peat, liberal amending of small planting areas is counterproductive.

PS - "this is a conifer forum".... clarification: this single post is a multi-forum post that is appearing in the Conifers, the Hydrangea and the Azalea Forums at the same time.