First thing to do is clean the duct. It should be cleaned at least once a year. When the duct builds up lint the dryer has to work harder and harder to try and push hot moist air past the buildup. It is also a fire hazard.

I don't think the Miele dryer would run on gas and am not sure if any are vented anymore. I think they only sell heat pump dryers. Would you be happy with that?

@theclose: what electrical connections do you have available within reach of the dryer location? Do you have 208/240 volt outlet available, or only 120 volts?

Hcbm, I had it cleaned recently although not sure if they blew the whole vent (my handyman did it). I’ll look into another cleaning. I did see that the Miele is a heat pump. Gets good reviews so far so I assumed I’d be happy with it!

zenhar, I have no idea what electrical connections I have. I should probably find that out!

Another question, How long is your dryer run and how many turns?My thinking is the dryer is over working and this is causing it to break prematurely. And my thinking is based on my limited knowledge. I hope dadoes pops in. He know everything about washer and dryers.

Hcbm, dryer run is about 3 feet with no turns. Very short. I’ll call today about dryer vent cleaning.

TheClose,

Three feet *total* distance ("with no turns" ) from back of the dryer to the outside exhaust hood ... as a straight-shot through the wall? If that's the case then cleaning it should be super-easy.

What's behind your dryer connecting its exhaust port to the wall?

I have a situation with my dryer at a corner position and the exhaust in the wall being too far toward the corner. I can't set the dryer into the side wall, and the short length of ducting to connect it gets obstructed due to the offset when the dryer is positioned square to the back wall, causes it to throw an overheat fault when run on the high temperature setting due to insufficient airflow rate.

So I have to set the dryer at an angle to the rear wall to reduce the sharp angle on the ducting and avoid the obstruction. Yes, that little difference has a considerable effect on dryer operation.

This is an outside wall. The outside exhaust hood is directly on the other side. I can reach into the hood from outside, through the duct, and touch the dryer's blower wheel.

Ok. so apparently I am really bad with gauging distances. My duct is 10 feet! It goes from the back of the dryer, curves upwards to go towards the window and straight up 6 feet, hangs a right for 3 feet, and then a left for 1 foot out the window. It doesn't seem kinked or compressed in any way. I am going to pull it out a bit from the wall and see what's going on there. I am also going to call tomorrow to see about getting it cleaned.

Thank you all!

I am no expert on venting but that is a lot of turns. Your manual should tell you what the acceptable length of vent and amount of turns is allowed. Others here have given a formula for the amount of length you have to add per turn. I can't remember at the moment. In addition, ribbed vent lines as opposed to ridged smooth lines make a huge difference. Hope you find a solution soon.

I am no expert on venting but that is a lot of turns. Your manual should tell you what the acceptable length of vent and amount of turns is allowed. Others here have given a formula for the amount of length you have to add per turn. I can't remember at the moment. In addition, ribbed vent lines as opposed to ridged smooth lines make a huge difference. Hope you find a solution soon.

I am no expert on venting but that is a lot of turns. Your manual should tell you what the acceptable length of vent and amount of turns is allowed. Others here have given a formula for the amount of length you have to add per turn. I can't remember at the moment. In addition, ribbed vent lines as opposed to ridged smooth lines make a huge difference. Hope you find a solution soon.

Here are some pics. I didn’t get a chance to call today for a vent cleaning.

That's not really bad for turns, the whole thing is just a bit long. You could help it a bit by straightening the second bend to more of a straight-shot to the window. The 90° upward bend behind the dryer is the most restrictive of the bunch.

Have the vent replaced with one that meets modern safety standards, or get the T1. I would not use the dryer until you’ve done one or the other.

Interesting comments! I will look into what type of vent tubing is recommended. Thank you!

I have a new T1 but it’s sitting in the living room until Wednesday when it gets hooked up. Can’t say if it’s good or not yet but it sure is pretty.

Interestingly dryer it says made in the Czech Republic, the washer (W1) is made in Germany. I thought everything was made in Germany?

The electric is definitely US 120V for both, although you can use the higher voltage with plug adapter.

Miele says that the it’s dryer is so power efficient that 120V is more than enough juice to run dryer effectively. As the heat is generated compressing the refrigerant gas which is also used for the cooling, so not using a heating element and lower power requirement.

Also Consumer Reports has tested both the W1 and the T1, both are rated very well. In fact are rated as among their highest scoring in both washer and dryer categories. The only negatives are that vibration on the washer is average and that heat pump dryer tended to dry delicates a little too warmly. Interesting I thought heat pumps allowed for lower temperatures while maintaining dryer effectiveness?

To follow up on my comment above.. since I have the washer and dryer now connected, and I had a huge pile of laundry backed up waiting for it. I think the Miele washer and dryer ran near constantly for the first 48 hours. And of course, your very first wash has to be a full calibration wash, which lasts about an hour and a half. I of course did not read the manual to see to realize in order to unlock the other features, the machine must be calibrate, so I thought something was wrong with it. So if you get one of these definitely read the manual. It was like a big “Oh oh-okay” moment when I realized the problem.

OK enough about the washer, I’ll go straight for the dryer. What can I say, it’s umm different. I can’t say I’m disappointed, although I won’t say I’m totally thrilled with it either. It seems to have no problems generating heat. I’ll second Consumer Reports comment about the delicate cycle being quite warm, as it certainly is with mine, although it hasn’t hurt anything as far as I can tell. It’s fairly quiet though it sounds a bit like an in window air-conditioner running with the way it buzzes. Which is normal per the manual.

I have never owned a condenser dryer, my previous was a gas vented type. So I have have nothing else compare the heat pump to.

The old dryer was faster, and easier to deal with since it only had one lint screen. The Miele T1 has a whole series of them and are of a fine mesh material compared to the gas dryer, which looked more like window screen. You have the first screen which is in the shape of an L (sort of), and then behind that, a secondary lint screen. A third one is behind a panel in front, which only periodically must be cleaned. Cleaning them takes only few extra minutes of your time, and it’s pretty easy to deal with. Except I wish they hadn't put the falcon scent thing on the lint tray, since it leaks very easily if not careful is super potent, like Fabreez x10. I washed my hands three times I can still smell it. What’s awkward about it is that the first lint tray is curved so it doesn’t sit flat and the stuff can spill out, but you have to clean the one screen behind that too. So just have somebody there ready to hold it while you clean the other lint screen, as it goes last on top of the second one. :D

As mentioned, I’m trying to be reasonable considering that I had a gas dryer, I think it probably definitely would be better than a condenser dryer from what I’ve read and am told. It’s just my previous way of drying is just to nuke it and forget it. And then maybe nuke it some more to get out the wrinkles because I forgot and left there. I’m not used to be any dampness on the clothes/towels, which the Miele seems programmed always leave.

It literally will never over dry anything. What I’m learning with this machine is that you need to hang things up right after it’s done. It will dry pretty fast after it gets on the rack or the hanger, but you just cannot leave in. Like I did/do. :D. Although I think you probably will not have this problem.

So really what I’m learning is that my drying style is all wrong, the Miele is doing it the proper (correct way), and that I should adapt to it, and not the other way around. I feel like I paid a bunch of money only not to be super convenience but rather to be schooled in the right way to do things. Lol. I’m very happy with it I really am. I just have kind a lazy with laundry sometimes. Never want to leave clothes in there because they will be damp slightly when they come out. The only way you can get stuff super dry is to use the timed dry, in the “more programs/*” and then keep turning the knob until you land on it. They don’t exactly want you using that feature, I get the feeling. Hope this helps.

Condenser dryers typically leave items feeling slightly moist immediately upon removal, then the residual surface moisture evaporates.

Have you tried using the Normal Plus or Extra Dry setting? Just turn the dial to Normal and press the up arrow to select the drying level.

I don't use fabric softener so I really appreciate the heat pump technology in the winter, less static.

Once I figured it out, I noticed this dryer won't over dry items. So let's say you have a t-shirt along with a sweatshirt, the dryer will shutdown once the t-shirt is dry, which is wonderful to protect your garments. I then just take the dry garments out and turn the dryer back on, or sort garments better according to their material/weight.

There also extra “steps” for normal plus and extra dry in settings. If you think normal plus is almost right and extra dry is too much you can go to settingsnand adjust “normal dry” up a tick or two and it will dry ever so slightly more.

Forget the fragrance flacon. It’s a pain to use as you have found out: The manual warns of it leaking if the proper steps are not followed. We don’t use ours and have never missed it. If you really want scented clothes just use a detergent with a strong fragrance.

Just to update, I did have the vent cleaned and it is working a lot better. I am going to try and reroute the vent to be a bit straighter.

Really, please get someone qualified to look at that vent. It screams “fire hazard” to me, especially since you’ve had two episodes of dryer malfunction already. Running a new one that meets code will cost you, so you might consider putting that $$ towards a new T1 instead. The heat pump works and there are no special electrical requirements, so the cost of the machine is somewhat offset by ease of installation. Good luck :-)

I have had the T1 060 for a couple weeks. Love it, but there's a learning curve. Pros: The heat pump technology dries very well. Reading this board I was wary of reports of damp laundry, cold laundry, very wrinkly laundry and such. These issues have not come up for me. The laundry was a bit damper than I wanted for one load so I added 20 minutes on timed dry. The installer was able to drain the dryer directly into the washer-dryer drain in the closet, so I do not have to use the machine's water receptacle. The dryer emits no added heat to the room. I love the dryer's 5-minute gentle cycle for wool. Capacity is larger than you think. I washed five fluffy towels plus a 24x36 bathmat no problem. Cons: The machine forces you to be more attentive than I was used to, but I don't mind. For example, you have to manually turn it off when a cycle ends. You have to manually disable the buzzer if you don't want it beeping forever. Also, it shakes on top of the W1 when the W1 is spinning at low speed and I'm not sure if this is normal. The shaking stops when the W1 revs to high speed. The Aqua fragrance flacon that came with the machine was blatantly sweet; I had it on the lowest dial and removed it after one load. The T1 replaced a vented old Maytag. We live on the 10th floor of a 15-story building in NYC. The venting was meh to begin with because the vent piping was crushed at the back of the dryer and the air had a long way to travel to the roof. The Miele T1 is drying just as fast as our old dryer if not faster. Overall I love it.

That's great to hear @nycmom!

Like you, I almost always add another cycle to the dryer. Changing a water softness setting (which was kind of obscure,) did help a lot. Apparently the sensor is designed for super hard water, whereas mine is soft. Who knew??

"For example, you have to manually turn it off when a cycle ends. You have to manually disable the buzzer if you don't want it beeping forever. Also, it shakes on top of the W1 when the W1 is spinning at low speed and I'm not sure if this is normal."

As for these issues, I don't have either with my T1 180. I might have set it not to beep, but I don't recall. It should be very easy to do that. In fact, I wish all appliances had an automatic "mute" feature that you could just set from the get-go!

And what kind of shaking are you experiencing? Mine vibrates just a bit as the washer is approaching high RPM. Once it's spinning at a constant speed, the stack is rock solid. You might have your installers double-check that it is level and on a very firm floor structure. I do think that can help with the longevity of your machines. Good luck, and I'm so glad you're pleased with the machine!

@scottie mom re: NYC water softness. Not sure if this setting is changeable on the 060 but will check. Thank you! The shaking happens not at the high speeds but as the wash is slopping around at the lower speed. It doesn't last but the first time it happened, a slim bottle of detergent on the top of the dryer tipped over. The installer did not adjust the legs nor was I confident that he attached the stacking kit securely. But he used a level and said it was level and didn't need adjusting. When you say "just a bit," it's vibration you can definitely see and feel, right?

@nycmom I notice this too on my W1/T1 stack. Do you have the drawer stack kit between the two units? I really only notice vibration of the dryer if there's an unbalanced load (like a bath mat by itself) and the washer is trying to even it out during the initial spin. BTW with the T1, also love not having to worry about cleaning the external vent or hose as I did with previous vented dryer.

Do you know what’s in the floor? I mean, what’s the floor system below? Mine’s extremely rigid and no, the vibration would never cause something to tip.

@Cal same here, it's during the initial spin when the load in the washer is briefly unbalanced. How long have you had the stack and have you had any problems? The floor below is hardwood over concrete. I got the $89 stacking layer, not the drawer. Also, I am able to adjust the water hardness @scottie mom! we'll see how that affects things. Thanks!

I've had the stack for over 1.5 years. Same setup, hardwood over concrete. I was really surprised with the new stacking kit, how Miele didn't preset holes in the washers top cover to screw the stacking kit into. Instead, the installers just drill their own holes into the top lid of the washer. Installers didn't do a perfect job of lining it up.

OMG I didn’t know it was left to installer-discretion. I slipped out while my guys were here. I was the last install on the day before thanksgiving, and I ran out to pick them up something nice ;-)

glad you’re both on firm footing. I’ve got tile on very very robust framing. Do you have the stacking kit with the drawer? I do. I wonder if that makes

a difference.

@Cal @scottie mom I was shocked by that too! He literally drilled directly into the metal top of the washer. He did not align the kit perfectly on mine either. The screws made a scary noise as they touched metal. Did anyone get the warranties? I still have time to decide.

Yes we bought the five years total warranty extension on washer and dryer. These devices are expensive to repair and one call out will more than pay the cost of the warranty.

I bought the 5 year warranty as well. I've been meaning to have them out to take a look at the springs to see if those plastic caps are on them (see other thread for that info) since sometimes it makes a little spring noise on start of unbalanced spin, but I guess I have time.

Our T1 was just installed; seems stuck in setup mode. Pairs nicely to the Miele app on our iPhone but still asks us to set the language and mieleconnect on every startup despite already being paired (and communicating with) our iPhone. Any tips before we put in a service call?