Yes, extend the opening or someone will get lost in there! I don't care for sliders, but too big for bi-fold. A designer might be able tocome upwith something.

How deep are they- I assume 24" +/-?

Hi, thank you for the feedback. Yes, the closet is exactly 24 inches deep.

I like lindlee’s idea...if you separate the openings..leaving equal wall space at each end and in the center...you make have workable size openings that will accommodate narrow sets of doors that open outward....or easy to manage narrow sets of solid bi-folds..

I don’t know that you need a taller closet, but i think you should enlarge the opening across the whole wall and then divide it into two separate but equal equal closets with two bifold doors each. Don’t forget the interiors: one long-hang rod, two short-hang rods above and below, and she/accessories storage.

Following...I have the same dilemma but only one door opening and a heat vent to contend with.

It is frustrating having a closet you can't access easily.

I like the idea of making 2 reach in closets side by side as suggested above.

How about a partial recessed storage.

or sliding barn doors

3 sliding doors (minus the purple)

I avoid bi-folds. They have a tendancy to come off the track.

Genius! I never considered a partially recessed storage. That would answer my linen storage problem as well. Thank you!

Thank you for the thank you :) Glad you like the idea. I have been a closet designer for over 15+ years. I enjoy making closets more user friendly.

I was also going to suggest doing built ins in the opening. I put this in across a wall of my old bungalow as it had no closets originally. You could do three wardrobe types in a row instead of the shelves.

I would rip that whole wall out and put in a new Pax system fromIKea so much more organized storage.They have shaker style doors that should work in your space.

Many of these suggestions are great, but big money. I did a similar closet in an old Craftsman by starting over on the inside with custom shelving system from Easy Closets. On the blind side like yours on the right, we ran the closet rods from back to front instead of side to side. The remainder of the closet runs side to side, minus 24” to leave hanging space for the right side. In the “normal” side to side run, we incorporated a tower of shelving that’s only 14” deep closest to the blind side to allow some space to get into the closet to access the front to back hanging rods.

following

Hi Amanda,
Welcome to my old hometown. Here a couple things to consider before remodeling the closet. In my daughter old bedroom we have a similar closet (full of old prom dresses and formals.) In that deep dark corner is where I stack large plastic tubs of stuff like holiday decorations that can't take the heat of an attic in Texas. Then you can add an extra hanging bar that just hangs from the original bar for double hanging. Even better could be refitting it with one of those closet system. All depends on what you will storing there. And is it shared closet?
Also look at the wall space in the room. Do you need that wall by the doors for a bookcase or small dresser? It is a good place for a pub mirror or wall shelf with coat hooks.
Do you want to keep sliding doors? If you changed the hardware to make the doors swing out, you open up more storage on the backs of the doors for shoe bags or wire basket and hooks. This depends on your furniture arrangement. In the photo, the bed would block swing out doors. If yours is in that spot the sliders will work better. Either way moving the door frame to the center of the wall would make it easier to reach corners, but that is an expensive and time consuming solution. Maybe a few tweaks could save you that time and money of aconstruction project.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I have a similar question (but I'm optimizing new construction). If anyone wants to chime in, I'd love your thoughts. thanks!

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5741810/reach-in-closet-2-pair-of-doors-or-3-bypass-doors