Who is going to make those doors? You want door frames with recessed panels covered on all sides with formica? Solid wood will be cheaper.

Each door will have 16 strips of formica that have to be exactly sized and joined for the frame (face, back, outer edge, and teeny inner edge for the recess). That is an insane amount of work you're asking for. And you'll still end up with tell-tale brown formica corners.

You have a designer, and a wet bar, yet can't afford the right cabinets? What is wrong with this picture? I guarantee you that there are wood cabinets that cost no more than laminate.

And, didn't "antiqued" mirrors go out in the '80s?

Are you using a cabinet maker? Or trying to find pre-made cabinets that have laminate similar to what you are looking for?

If just for the wet bar and you're not trying to go custom you could use Ikea frames and a company that makes custom fronts to fit into your budget. The black wood or basalt may work for what you are looking for.

@crystalpea thank you. I’ll look into that. What company makes the doors?

https://thecabinetface.com/all-material-types/

@tatts thank you for your kind helpful advice. Like I said I’m on a budget. Which means I have a certain amount of money to work with for each portion of the project. The cabinet maker I’m working with said it would cost $2000 more for cerused white oak cabinets with a custom stain. And antiqued mirrors are back!

You might be more pleased if you consider thermofoil doors premade.

https://www.lindseydoors.com/shop/rtf-cabinet-doors/los-angeles-cabinet-doors/

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Or veneers, my cabinet maker has many veneer types that would fit your bill, have you considered that?

@K R thanks I’ll ask him. That would be a great option if he offers that

@beverlyfladeziner I’m hesitant to use thermofoil in the wet bar because there’s a sink there and it might get wet but those doors might work great in my mudroom or closets. Thank you!

I love the look you are going for!

Why would you think that plastic laminate is then OK around water?

I could be mistaken but when I did research on cabinetry I found that a high pressure laminate will hold up much better than a thermofoil in moist areas. Thermofoils supposedly bubble / peel in moist environments. I could be wrong though, as I looked into it a while ago.

Not a Pro.

I have had Thermofoil kitchen cabinets for many years in a very busy household. Love them! Still look new.

It would be my choice again, should I change out my kitchen.

Just like everything else in life, who makes it and what goes into the product, grade of product, etc.

Or I may have had just a good environment.

Not at all a pro. I like your inspiration pic. I think plywood cabinets are a more frugal choice because they can last 50+ years. Perhaps you could consider ordering unfinished oak from your cabinet maker and cerusing them yourself, especially if the wet bar is not large. You could test the finish on a scrap piece of oak before you commit.

I am typically a DIY type of person, and I’m tempted to stain them myself, but this is a new construction and way too many other details that I’m handling to take that on. I also have 4 young children, and my schedule is already jam packed.

I think this is my new favorite kitchen! I love your inspiration photo.

Very few local type cabinet makers have the ability to do a high pressure lamination application system. That’s more reserved for the big manufacturers with the expensive machinery. That’s why it costs as much as a high quality veneer application. It’s the tools and the time. Yes, they can do low pressure vacuum bag systems. Or standard contact glue systems. That’s not the same. Be careful that they are selling you what you are asking for. If they are, it won’t be much, if any, cost savings.

@thecook’skitchen he already priced out laminate cabinetry. Maybe he’s gluing them on? I’ll look into this. Thank you for bringing to my attention.

He’s using contact cement over particle board if it’s cheaper than a veneer option. That’s the only way it is budget competitive. That’s not a bad option. It’s just not what you are assuming that you are getting. And it would be a bigger price difference than what you were given as well. HPL is an expensive choice. Plain Formica glued on particle board is a pretty darn cheap choice.

Yes ^^^ and it would be fine for a wet bar. What’s your counter top for the wet bar? That will get the red wine bottle rings so something that stands up to that...?

BTW I don’t think the laminates you chose will be too busy compared to your inspiration photo.

You should check out our Coordinated Surfaces 5-Piece Door program here. https://www.wilsonart.com/cabinet-doors and new photos here: https://www.houzz.com/hznb/projects/wilsonart%C2%AE-cabinet-doors-pj-vj~5862759

I spoke to my cabinetry guy. The cabinetry is made from 3/4” plywood, Blum soft close doors/ drawers. He priced me on laminate or acrylic surfaces that he will be gluing on. He’s reputable in my area and he guarantees the cabinets will last for 15+ years. I will probably end up using my first choice of laminate or a high gloss acrylic.

@Thinkdesignlive I found a porcelain large format slab that can work for countertop and backsplash. I ordered a sample.
See the pic below. On top is inspiration photo, below is porcelain slab. I have someone that is experienced in installing large porcelain slabs.

Particle board or high density particle board, aka, furniture board, is the approved substrate for laminate. Not plywood. Plywood will have issues. It’s an unneeded “upgrade” for sound and noise, not utility.

Large format tile like that is as expensive as slab stone. Plus it has much more stringent installation tolerances that are much more difficult to achieve. Flat is hard, and costs more. It’s a great choice if you have top high end contractors.

Wet bar? I think I'd get the doors myself unfinished and stain w gel stain : ebony. Get a relief to the door profile and pick a wood w some texture so you get detail. Then put a deep reddish tinted polyurethane that will lay in the crevices . Easy : and you can't have oh so many doors or drawer fronts. I think you can make a richer tone yourself than that charcoal And way less money. It's a small extra area. Put the money into the main kitchen. ....or the hardware and counter and backsplash for the wet bar......those are the noticed things in a small space such as this which has short episodes of use.

Live_wire_oak I thought he said the cabinet base and drawers were made of plywood. Perhaps only the doors and drawer fronts are made from particle board? I may have gotten confused but I saw a kitchen he’d done with high gloss acrylic and the “bones״ were solid and good enough for me. I’m still waiting on a price for the porcelain slab but I was told by my tile dealer that it would be substantially cheaper than real marble. I prefer porcelain over marble in this area because of the maintenance with marble as well as cost. If it wasn’t porcelain it was going to be quartz countertop, which I budgeted for.

Sara H. How did your project turn out! Love your inspiration!!!